Replacement cylinder head valves

[enjoi.this]

Ive been searching around and havent come across any stock replacement vavles... Maybe im looking in the wrong place or something idk. I need a full set for the exhaust side. The current ones in my portorted cyl head have slight pitting on them and I dont not want to have to go through a valve not sealing later on once engine is assembled.

Any info or advice on some qaulity replacement parts would be awesome. I imagine going through toyota (even if I could get them) would be very pricy, so quality aftermarket valves could also be an option.

 

[zurud]

any auto parts store

 

[enjoi.this]

any auto parts store

The thing is I dont want just any replacement valve. Something thats going to take a mild beating for a decent length of time is what im looking for.

 

[RiyadYar]

you could always get a ferra valve train set thats the stock size http://www.suprasport.com/Ferra-Valvetrain-_p_93.html

 

[amichie]

Slight pitting is easily fixed at your machine shop by refacing. You really only need to change them when the stems are worn or the seats are pitted beyond refacing.

 

[enjoi.this]

Slight pitting is easily fixed at your machine shop by refacing. You really only need to change them when the stems are worn or the seats are pitted beyond refacing.

Only problem with refacing vales from an import engine it removes the stalite coating on the faces. They wouldnt last any length of time without it. Especially under alot of boost I couldnt see them taking that..

 

[enjoi.this]

you could always get a ferra valve train set thats the stock size http://www.suprasport.com/Ferra-Valvetrain-_p_93.html

Now if I was building a JZ I would totally go for that. With just building a 7M I dont see the value in putting big $$ into it.

 

[jdub]

Pretty sure SupraRich has a set of BC valves in stock...go for the .5mm over size and mate with a set of Comp Cam springs (Rich has those too).

 

[enjoi.this]

Pretty sure SupraRich has a set of BC valves in stock...go for the .5mm over size and mate with a set of Comp Cam springs (Rich has those too).

Now if I was to go with oversized valves would they come with new seats or would I get my machine shop to cut the existing seats to accomidate the larger valves? Also what kind of $$ would it cost to buy up those beauty's?

 

[jdub]

http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-7mgte-7mge-Toyota-Supra/Categories

I would just PM SupraRich vs going to the websire
You are looking at $450 for a full set of valves and Comp Cam springs.

I have the BC .5mm oversize in my head. Your existing seats (assuming no damage) can be machined to fit these without getting them too thin. The springs use the stock retainers and are a nice upgrade for a mildly modified head like yours. If you're going to do this, I would seriously consider replacing the guides.


BTW - Here's the spring seat pressures for the various ones available:
Stock - 35 lbs (Rich has seen them measure out in the 40-45 lb range)
Comp Cams - 55 lbs
BC - 60 lbs
Ferrea - 67 lbs (dual spring - Std alloy)

Becomes a factor with more aggressive cams and/or higher rpm (8K +) levels. The Comp springs are the best bang for the buck if you're running stock engine rpm IMO.

 

[92TealSupra]

Now if I was building a JZ I would totally go for that. With just building a 7M I dont see the value in putting big $$ into it.

7M's are reliable motors. Most people on here blow a head gasket. We all " know this is a issue " but from what I see motors don't blow until around 150K-190K

For a performance motor I think this is fine.

When you accurately build the 7M and realize what you have, then this motor is just as good as JZ motors.

-Teal

 

[enjoi.this]

http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-7mgte-7mge-Toyota-Supra/Categories

I would just PM SupraRich vs going to the websire
You are looking at $450 for a full set of valves and Comp Cam springs.

I have the BC .5mm oversize in my head. Your existing seats (assuming no damage) can be machined to fit these without getting them too thin. The springs use the stock retainers and are a nice upgrade for a mildly modified head like yours. If you're going to do this, I would seriously consider replacing the guides.


BTW - Here's the spring seat pressures for the various ones available:
Stock - 35 lbs (Rich has seen them measure out in the 40-45 lb range)
Comp Cams - 55 lbs
BC - 60 lbs
Ferrea - 67 lbs (dual spring - Std alloy)

Becomes a factor with more aggressive cams and/or higher rpm (8K +) levels. The Comp springs are the best bang for the buck if you're running stock engine rpm IMO.

I really like the sounds of this upgrade, its not overkill for what my goals are. There will be no over stock revving hence im running stock rods (shot peened) and arp bolts. My goals are staying the same but they just seem to always want to wander farther off trail to make something bigger, better , faster.. :biglaugh:

If I were to do this, new guides would deff be a must. Would be silly to do all this work and mate old worn out parts with new. With the right price I could be pursuaded into changing plans

 

[enjoi.this]

7M's are reliable motors. Most people on here blow a head gasket. We all " know this is a issue " but from what I see motors don't blow until around 150K-190K

For a performance motor I think this is fine.

When you accurately build the 7M and realize what you have, then this motor is just as good as JZ motors.

-Teal

Its not that I dont belive a 7m cant be built to be reliable. Mine will be fairly reliable depending on how far I push it and treat it.
The next build will be a JZ and thats what I want to do the big spending on.

 

[jdub]

It's a heck of a lot better price than a $1600 Ferrea valve train and suits your HP goal.

I did use Ferrea bronze guides, but Toyota OEM will work too.

Have the machinist unshroud the valves if you do this

Make sure you have the rod ends resized as well as a shot peen...it's easy to balance the rod/piston weight while your at it.

 

[92TealSupra]

Its not that I dont belive a 7m cant be built to be reliable. Mine will be fairly reliable depending on how far I push it and treat it.
The next build will be a JZ and thats what I want to do the big spending on.

Fair enough. I am going to figure in the 7M as a good motor for now. I am working on the 5-speed swap into my auto, and I hope.. I can do it, I would like to try to do it by myself until I run into problems.

Guess we shall see.

 

[enjoi.this]

It's a heck of a lot better price than a $1600 Ferrea valve train and suits your HP goal.

I did use Ferrea guides, but Toyota OEM will work too.

Have the machinist unshroud the valves if you do this

Make sure you have the rod ends resized as well as a shot peen...it's easy to balance the rod/piston weight while your at it.

I was thinking toyota oem guides, depending which was a better value.
What will unshrouding the valves do for me? any reliablilty issues or other points to bring about?

I find it funny how you know what im doing already lol. My work is great once again, since I have access to precision scales for blue printing parts :biglaugh:

 

[jdub]

http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html

Done correctly, no issues

 

[92TealSupra]

http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html

Done correctly, no issues

Have many members on here done this? Would you think this to be beneficial?
I always like trying to new things, and though most people have a lot of there things done at a shop I would like to try this at home. I have dremels and tools of use.

Thanks for posting this.

 

[enjoi.this]

http://www.diyporting.com/Shrouding.html

Done correctly, no issues

Thats awesome, thanks for the info on that jdub. Damn I got some more work to do now! :evil2:
I take it with you giving me this info this is a suitable/good mod to do to the 7m?

 

[jdub]

Like any other work on the 7M head, don't go nuts...be very careful you do not go outside the MHG bore diameter. The material removed is at the outside edge of the combustion chamber.
I had the machinist do this one

Yes, it will improve flow around the valve into the cylinder.

If you purchase the BC valves, confirm the stock retainers will work with them...iirc, the BC valves are an upgraded/oversize version of stock. I am 100% sure the comp cam springs will work with stock retainers and stock valves. I am not using them in my head though...got a package deal on the BC valves, springs, and retainers.