Replaced master cylinder; trouble with bleeding.

[CPT Furious]

First of all, the car is an 89 Turbo w/ ABS. I replaced the master cylinder last week with one from O'Reilly Auto Parts and after bleeding the cylinder, or at least I think I did, I hooked up the brake lines to bleed the rest of the system.

The problem is some is pissing out of the line where the right arrow is in the picture. I don't know why it is doing it now, but when I also try to bleed the right rear (first one I tried), I can't get anything to come out except for a few drips. The bleeders aren't all that old, a year or two maybe, and everything else seemed to be work fine before I pulled the old master cylinder off.

The brake pedal also doesn't stiffen up as you push on it with the engine off and everything closed up. To me, I would guess this means I have a true air leak at that line. The question is, do you think I should get a true Toyota cylinder or try a new line or loosen the one I have and try to get it to thread again?

I searched and found a thread where someone recommended the Toyota one that had similar issues, but that's about it.

 

[Jaguar_5]

Well if you're losing brake fluid out of that connection, sounds like you already know where your leak is.

Could be too loose, could be too tight and maybe the flare got damaged (these fittings don't need any sealant)

Just my .02

 

[black91turbo]

Yeah what he said^^^^ If brake fluid is leaking from the line......that is where you are losing the pressure

 

[CPT Furious]

I'm going to take the brake lines back off of the master cylinder, loosen the master cylinder from the booster, and try to re-tighten the brake lines to see if that helps to prevent any kind of binding.

 

[CPT Furious]

Well, I loosened the bolts holding the cylinder to the booster and tried again. The line went on fine, but when the pedal was pushed, the fluid was leaking around the threads this time. Oh, well, I'll give this one back and get a genuine one from Toyota...

 

[shaeff]

Yeah, many have found that non OEM replacements for clutch masters, slaves, and brake masters die very quickly.

 

[gaboonviper85]

i just replaced my brake cylinder.....and i went with a genuine aisin toyota replacement....never had any problem with it at all!!!! install went smooth as a catholic school girls ass!

 

[RiyadYar]

try taking off the out-line from the abs that goes to the rear and see if any fluid squirts out when the brake pedal is pressed. if not have someone press the brakepedal and put your finger over the out side on the abs unit. then have them release the pedal and let go and have them press again... this is if their is air in the abs..takes about 30-60 pumps.

 

[CPT Furious]

UPDATE: Well, I finally had some more time to finally try to deal with this and I successfully bench-bled the new master cylinder replacement. I put it on, but still can't get any fluid to come through the rear brake lines. The booster is good per the TSRM test and the only thing I can think of is massive amounts of air that won't let me "push" fluid through. The tip in the booster is also reaching the new master cylinder and moving the piston, so I know that's not the problem, either.

In addition to the above suggestions, would a suction setup attached to the rear brake line and run off my air compressor help pull the fluid through? This is rather annoying since I really don't want to have to tow my car someplace...

 

[jetjock]

Fwiw I always pressure bleed, the way it's done in aviation. Pressure bleeding works on the most stubborn and convoluted of hydraulic systems. Air would rather go up than down you know...

 

[CPT Furious]

Thanks, JJ! I called my local Autozone and they have a pump I think I can use to push the fluid forward from the bleeders. If not, I can at least still try to suck it through...we'll see.

 

[jetjock]

Meh, a cheap garden sprayer works fine. Don't expect it to hold up long though...

 

[CPT Furious]

Long story short...2 reman master cylinders were both bad and bought a brand new Toyota one with a discount and all is well! Can't explain why the remans were bad, but I shouldn't have to worry about it for another 20 years since the one I replaced was the original...