removing harmonic damper nut?

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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89nasupra;1614864 said:
Ian,
Never worried about bending the flex plate or breaking the teeth off the ring gear? Just seems like alot of pressure concentrated in a small area. Although I'm sure my method was no better...lol

Not at all as leverage comes into play, been doing it this way for 30+ years and have never damaged a tooth or a flexplate.
 
Oct 11, 2005
3,816
16
38
Thousand Oaks, CA
For the guys suggesting the starter motor, how do you plan to torque it back up to 195 ft-lbs on reassembly? You need some way to lock the crank, either at the ring gear, or by using those gadgets in post #7, or throwing a 2x4 into the crank if the oil pan is off.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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3p141592654;1614964 said:
For the guys suggesting the starter motor, how do you plan to torque it back up to 195 ft-lbs on reassembly? You need some way to lock the crank, either at the ring gear, or by using those gadgets in post #7, or throwing a 2x4 into the crank if the oil pan is off.

swap + and - on the starter :runaway: <sarc>
 

suprarich

Guest
Nov 9, 2005
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You guys really need to invest in a good impact gun to remove that bolt. My Mac 1000ft lb gun removes that bolt in 3 seconds.
 

jukka

New Member
Sep 1, 2008
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I used the starter to loosen and then the 4th gear,parking brake and breaker bar to tighten.
One very knowledgeable forum member places speaker wire into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and then proceeds to tighten the bolt.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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jukka;1615415 said:
I used the starter to loosen and then the 4th gear,parking brake and breaker bar to tighten.
One very knowledgeable forum member places speaker wire into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and then proceeds to tighten the bolt.

:nono:
 

suprarich

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Nov 9, 2005
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jukka;1615415 said:
I used the starter to loosen and then the 4th gear,parking brake and breaker bar to tighten.
One very knowledgeable forum member places speaker wire into the cylinder via the spark plug hole and then proceeds to tighten the bolt.

Speechless
 

Vacationtime247

New Member
Apr 17, 2009
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Muncie, IN
Since the car is a manual, put the breaker bar and socket on the nut. Wedge the bar to prevent movement. Place the car in gear and try the moving it forward (or back can't remember which). Anyone think this could work?
VT247
 

jukka

New Member
Sep 1, 2008
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when I said speaker wire I was referring to is the heavier gauge insulated wire - should probably have called it stereo power wire.
not to cause further speachlessness but some people will insert non-fraying nylon rope into the cylinder and use this to lock the motor for both tightening and for loosening the crank pulley bolt!
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
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Beach Park, IL
1000 ft/lb reverse impact WOULD do the trick, but most people can't afford the impact and required size air compressor (or may not have the SPACE needed for that compressor)

I bought a crank pulley holder. Schley 64300: http://www.amazon.com/Harmonic-Damp..._1?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1284233328&sr=8-1

Thread the two screws into the female threaded spots on the crank pulley (they do thread in, you just need to work at em), attach breaker bar and 19mm socket to crank pulley bolt, attach breaker bar to pulley holder.

Brace the breaker bar against something (I used frame rail), and give the bar a fairly good yank (may have to work at that for a while too). It WILL come free.

Replace the crank pulley bolt with a new one while you're at it.

Since I've replaced everything there, I can take apart the front of the engine (all timing belt components) in under 20 minutes with the radiator IN the car :)
 

Moy

It's broken...
Aug 6, 2008
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Beach Park, IL
3p141592654;1616107 said:
That looks good. I built something like that myself, but would have bought it had I known about it!

It makes things really easy. And it works on 2JZ crank pulleys.

It works on most Toyota/Lexus engines. I think there are one or two that it won't work on, but for M, JZ, and 1UZ it will work :)


Oh, and the tool is STOUT. The bolts would be more likely to break than the actual tool, it looks to be billet aluminum. I've dropped it a few times from about 5 feet and it doesn't even have a scratch on it from that... :)

Edit:
Here's the tool's page from the manufacturer: http://www.sptool.com/index.php?opt...e.tpl&category_id=18&product_id=170&Itemid=11

Amazon has the best price (that I've found) on the tool in case anyone is wondering
 

Bill UK

90 Supra Turbo 14 psi
Aug 11, 2006
56
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UK
Nice one Moy, that’s the first practical one I’ve seen, apart from the 2 homemade ones in my post #7. Good recommendation.
 

suprarich

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Nov 9, 2005
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Moy;1615988 said:
1000 ft/lb reverse impact WOULD do the trick, but most people can't afford the impact and required size air compressor (or may not have the SPACE needed for that compressor)

It only needs 90 psi from a regular size air hose and fitting. So any air compressor with a tank on it will do the trick. That damper tool is nice.