Recomend a brake setup for meeee!

[supbrah86.5]

Hello! What are you fellas doing for brakes? I have an 86.5 with a 1jz and it goes pretty quick and actually doesnt stop too bad but i have a horribly warped oem rotor and want to upgrade, if not all four sides, at least the fronts. I saw that some people upgrade to nissan 4 pots(need more info). I also saw that mkiv wont fit . Im not looking for anything crazy like brembo because well lets face it. . . Just a bit of improvement. I have no reason to believe any of the calipers are bad so, if they got the guff, I'd be okay with an upgrade on pads and rotors. Suggestions as far as long life, and if not, lower price are desired. I'm not worried about brake dust as the car was built to be driven. I need to get rid of this terrible vibration, and oem auto zone pads and rotors, though cheap, aren't meeting my requirements.

Also, I broke a bleeder screw(pb blaster and all) doing a full flush on the left front and need to replace it if anyone has a part number or link.

Feel free to discuss anything brake related, I love information. And I am interested in a braided or solid brake line setup if anyone has had any success.

Finally, what the hell happened to diamondracingwheels.com? I had my credit card out and everything.

 

[AnubisMK3]

Driftmotion sells the cobra brackets and the braided line kit for them. Thats the route I plan on going.

 

[hvyman]

Good rotors with good pads make a big difference.

Can use ebc Trd porterfield etc. even oem Toyota pads work pretty good but not if your hard on them.

 

[Grandavi]

I put on brembo rotors, stock calipers, SS brake lines.. flushed fluids.. and it stops perfectly fine. 150 kph, and I had to hammer the brakes.. no fade.. perfect.

I have always been impressed with the stock MK3 brake. Its very durable and effective as opposed to some of the newer vehicles that I have driven where the pads have lasted 10-20,000 km...

 

[91Supra313]

I use 88Rotors. I have used them on my last 2 Supras and my friends in Germany had me get them some. I would recommend them to anyone. They are not listed on their site but they have them. I emailed to double check. And for less then $200 shipped for 4 cross drilled and slotted rotors and pads all around, you can't beat that price. Even with the higher speeds in Germany I never had a single issue with warped rotors or squealing.

 

[supbrah86.5]

Goood info so far everybody. Seems like im going to keep the calipers and probably freshen them up a bit. I agree with the good thoughts on the oem calipers, when I put pads and rotors(autozone) i was actually pretty impressed considering they were all duralast and probably filthy fluid as well as the heftiness of the car.

Any thoughts on replacing the LF bleeder screw? I have a collection of various size/thread screws at work but nothing worked.

 

[akito]

Can't help you on the bleeder screw but I have brembo blanks rotors and EBC green pads on my supra and that was a huge improvement over stock. Stops on a dime, no fade what so ever over a long period of driving.

The nissan 4 pots is probably one of the easiest upgrades for our car but the rotors for those calipers are not bigger than the stock supra ones so I think it's kinda stupid to upgrade to something that has smaller rotors overall IMO

 

[suprarx7nut]

Another vote here for stock brakes unless you can afford the high-end kits from the big companies (Stoptech, Brembo, etc...) Brake systems are finely tuned instruments for each car and without lots of engineering bigger rotors and calipers are useless.

 

[MadRPM]

For the bleeder screw, go on rockauto and look for a front caliper, 9 times out of ten a company will list the thread size of bleeder screw and bolt thread specs. Once you get there, you can pay a bit extra for some Speedbleeder bleeding screws to make your life easy in the future.

As for brake upgrades, unless you master how to jam brakes, upgraded pads and good tires makes a world of a difference. If you're boiling your freshly flushed brake system, look into proven big brakes, if not, upgraded pads and fresh fluids will do.

 

[Amtrack]

Funny to read, how different the opinions are on the stock brakes.

Stock is definatly not up to the task with the speeds you can drive here in Germany.
You can drive all day long 180 - 200 kph (around 120mph) and on traffic free parts easily 260-280 kph (around 170 mph).

Even ONE hard brake from that speed is enough, to warp the rotors badly.
Not to mention that it looses stopping power if things are getting real hot.

Of course you can do a fast run and one brake - but don´t be stupid and forget to let things cool down!
A second hard brake right after the fist break will make you sh*t your trousers as your brakes feel like a big wobbling piece of dog poo

Just my opinion of course - maybe it´s better on the highways as the difference in speed to the other cars is not that high.

 

[Grandavi]

Well in Canada, they will want to toss you in jail and possibly castrate you for breaking 150 kph.... lol. I think in the USA they just pull you out of your car and shoot you on sight...

 

[Poodles]

Brakes on our cars are definately a weak link given the speeds they can attain and the weight of the car.

The people on here thinking they're great are smoking crack :rofl: Modern cars of similar weight and performance have brakes far FAR larger.

Good pads in a system that's not worn out is good for ONE ggod high speed stop. If you drive your car hard on mountain roads you'll very quickly see fade.

IMHO the best bang for the buck is going to be arz's wilwood setup. The cobra brakes are alright, but not on the same level. The nightpager setup is another option, but in the end it ends up being very close to the price of the wilwoods and they're not even close to the wilwoods in performance.

 

[Grandavi]

Really? i thought the BBK were meant more for track cars, not street drivers. Mine are brand new, but the old ones were about 8 years old (pads and rotors) and the only reason I changed them out was that I wanted a fresh system and I have had 3 times where the brakes wouldn't engage correctly after washing the car (scary when your not expecting that...)
The Brembo rotors I have on mine look thicker, but the calipers are still stock (although in great condition). I have heard of people liquifying the pads at very high speeds when having to stop rapid, but didn't think our car was prone to this.

hmm... are you sure your not just one of those guys that wants my money? There are a lot of them.. lol.


now I have to reconsider the BBK.

 

[Enraged]

if you want an off the shelf, bolt on system, I'd go with ARZ: http://www.supramania.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?114-Arizona-Performance . He has a big variety of sizes and prices.

Honestly I wouldn't waste my time upgrading the stock size brakes. Spend a few hundred more and you get a quality bbk.

 

[Grandavi]

I have to look at my brakes closer.. those 12" wilwoods dont look much bigger than my Brembo rotors...

 

[fromgehenna]

Hi,

My combo is :

Front : 350Z disk (324mmX30mm, Brembo) and skyline R34 GT-T 4-pot calipers
Rear : mk3 stock disk and skyline R33 GTR 2-pot calipers

350Z disks are nice since you dont have to remove the disk dust cover. Also the 350Z center is bit larger so you just need a reducer to make it fit in mk3 Supra. R34 GT-T calipers are not so easy to install. Better option would have been Z300 calipers. The mounting brakets on Z300 are not so long as on R34 GT-T. Both calipers are made by Sumitomo and they have same piston size. Some Z300 calipers are made from iron but there are also aluminium ones like the calipers on R34 GT-T.

For rear I just made a braket for the R33 calipers and done.

Here are some pictures of the setup. http://oldcrappysupra.blogspot.fi/2012/05/vanhan-tojon-jalleensyntyminen.html

Brakes are not that hard to modify as you might think. It's mostly basic hydraulics. Only problem you might have on combo like mine is that the ABS system might get too agressive. Meaning that it starts working too soon.

 

[te72]

I have to look at my brakes closer.. those 12" wilwoods dont look much bigger than my Brembo rotors...

13" are the smallest fronts that ARZ uses, and 12.2" are the smallest rears. I've driven on upgraded pads (Porterfield R4S) on stock machined rotors, it was good for a slow car. I wouldn't dare try to use that setup on what I'm building, or even a car of the caliber I'm driving now.

The ARZ brakes drive like stock until you NEED to stop. Then they'll test just how much grip your car has haha. You'll soon want stickier tires given how much shorter your stopping distances are...

So, I bit the bullet and bought the ARZ setups front and rear. VERY much looking forward to using them. Also, the calipers are eerily light, so the weight increase, if any, is minimal. Might even be an overall weight loss, hopefully Andy will chime in here.

 

[1-2clutch-u]

+10000 for azp I got the 13in front and evo/brembo rears. Love this combo. The azps are nice! Ebc on drilled n slotted rotors are ok for a stock car on the street at never sees over 120 but anything more they will wear out and then your stuck replacing $100 per axle pads. not worth it!!!

 

[MNBmk3T]

My friend with a 610WHP 2JZ MK3 just recently went from Porterfield R4S with slotted rotors to the ARZ 4-Pot Wilwood kit. He said the difference was astounding and the $1200 he spent on the front kit alone was WELL worth the money.

 

[fromgehenna]

Does the Wilwood calipers have dust seals (gromets) for pistons?? Have seen some Wilwood calipers and the reason why didn't use them my self was the fact they dont have dust seals. This means that you have to service them more often and well I'm bit lazy. :biglaugh:

My friend used Wilwood calipers in his endurance car but he had problems with them on 12h races. Pistons start to stuck so the pad wont return properly and that heats the brakes. But well this was a race situation. And again have only hear positive thing from some guys that do rally.