rebuild engine just develop rod knock or a ring went out

nightrider760

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Sep 25, 2008
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escondido , tijuana
i was driving a couple days ago trying to break in the engine into a straight way i did about 5 runs at 65 mph with the gas pedal about 3/4 down not to the fullest just to be clear.Then after that i started to hear a noice coming out from the engine then i did an oil change , it took away the noise for about 45 min and it came back again so i dont know what to do it does it past 3k rpms it seems to be that it actually comes from cyl 3 looking at the engine from the fan to the firewall ive seen some smoke > ive installed a 2mm cometic metal head gasket 20 over pistons honed the cyl i had the head done as well and the crankshaft

Can i fix the rod knock without tearing up the engine??

could it be a piston ring

thnk you in advance

att david
 

nightrider760

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Sep 25, 2008
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Today we tore the engine apart and guess what some parts were missing , those little things that go on the sides of the crank that look like the letter C dont know what they called but i hope you guys can understean it.I was so mad because the freaken mechanic didnt installed them so thats why the crank was kinda like bouncing back and forth .The good thing about it was that we didnt have to take the head out
 

jdub

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"Thrust Washers"...there's 4 (2 matched pair) of them. The #4 main cap has grooves that mate to the halfs that have the notch on top.
 

jdub

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grimreaper;1169941 said:
what damage will leaving them out cause and can they be put in with out piston removal?


It will allow the crank to move fore/aft...not good for the bearings at all.

He should be able to install without removing the pistons...the problem is in the torque sequence. The TSRM is specific about the sequence to loosen the main caps:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=71

Then installing the caps is a different sequence (opposite actually):
http://www.cygnusx1.net/supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=EM&P=91

Installation shows the #4 cap tightened 1st...the question of the day is do you want to remove just the #4 cap.
For me, I'd loosen per pg 71, inspect the bearings for damage, and reinstall per pg 91.
 

Rennat

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Dec 6, 2005
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Nomad707;1169946 said:
the word mechanic being in the most basic terms, ever.


im still trying to figure out how he thought nothing went there... AND if he looked up the bearings, he would have seen THRUST washers... because OBVISOULY there not built into the bearing... whatever. i just hope it gets fixed.
 

jdub

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IJ.;1169959 said:
Seen em put in backwards before never seen em left out though!!

Backwards? You mean with the notch on the block side?

Forget that...you have to mean with the grooves on the inside vs facing out.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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Yeah, good way to fuck up the bearings, wristpins, pistons...

Don't just let the moron slap them in and say it's fine, it needs to be torn down and everything reinspected...
 

jdub

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Shiny side out...always reminds me of keeping the "shiny side up" in an airplane ;)
 

jdub

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Not on the Clevites (NCCs actually - marked T1-1006B-U-STD) I have here...the side with the grooves is very shiny. The sides facing inside (toward the cap/saddle inset groove) is dull.