Rear quarters
- Thread starter KWITTS
- Start date
cut them out and go widebody thats my evil temptation for the day..........................
Go widebody they said..........
It would be sweet they said..................
insert punch line............
haha
honestly though if you have to ask go ask a local repair shop as rear qrters will be not easy to find. how much do you have invested what do you want to do yourself?
could be cheaper to reshell? and dunno what your on about pictures seemed fine but im from other side of the planet even our water turns backwards according to the simpsons??? and we all know that show is pretty much a wikipedia but yellow??
Go widebody they said..........
It would be sweet they said..................
insert punch line............
haha
honestly though if you have to ask go ask a local repair shop as rear qrters will be not easy to find. how much do you have invested what do you want to do yourself?
could be cheaper to reshell? and dunno what your on about pictures seemed fine but im from other side of the planet even our water turns backwards according to the simpsons??? and we all know that show is pretty much a wikipedia but yellow??
you are in for a PITA
I cut mine along the b pillar about 1" up,
inside the door jam,
all the way to the bottom
all the way across the bottom (drilling out spot welds (also spot welds on wheel well lip)
there is a panel overlap behind the taillight
spot welds in the rear trunk drip rail
spot welds under quarter glass bring you back to the b pillar.... pics to come...
its best if you have a full quarter (ie more than you need)
mine came in 3 sections the main and 2 sections below the side mouldings (sawzall + JZA70 hitter)
^as u can see I got a quarter that was cut below the body moulding line, my quarter also had a nice amount of inner wheel well allowing me to weld along there as opposed to the arch lip
but I had to remove the lower corners (front/back - both sides) to be assured my sandblasting was worth while.. my passenger quarter was good after the bottom 25% was removed blasted and replaced...
and these quarters didn't even look bad, until I wondered why one was bondo.... and hit it with a sandblaster...
if this car was for me rather than my father... I would have gone with the shine widebody and appropriate wheels...
{leftover map from kewlona - on the door}
I cut mine along the b pillar about 1" up,
inside the door jam,
all the way to the bottom
all the way across the bottom (drilling out spot welds (also spot welds on wheel well lip)
there is a panel overlap behind the taillight
spot welds in the rear trunk drip rail
spot welds under quarter glass bring you back to the b pillar.... pics to come...
its best if you have a full quarter (ie more than you need)
mine came in 3 sections the main and 2 sections below the side mouldings (sawzall + JZA70 hitter)
^as u can see I got a quarter that was cut below the body moulding line, my quarter also had a nice amount of inner wheel well allowing me to weld along there as opposed to the arch lip
but I had to remove the lower corners (front/back - both sides) to be assured my sandblasting was worth while.. my passenger quarter was good after the bottom 25% was removed blasted and replaced...
and these quarters didn't even look bad, until I wondered why one was bondo.... and hit it with a sandblaster...
if this car was for me rather than my father... I would have gone with the shine widebody and appropriate wheels...
{leftover map from kewlona - on the door}
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Do you have more pictures... Another thing. I didn't think you we're supposed to cut into the body lines because its very hard to make it look straight after. I guess if the rust is that bad you have to. I would scrap the car but it everything underneath is surprisingly pretty clean .. The fenders are all just shredded ...and the subframes have no rust and are in very good shape... There is a whole in each well tho. The underside is still pretty solid aside from the spare tire area. Regardless I plan to buy another one with a decent body so at that point I can decide if I wanna use it or cut everything off it
Honestly, having been through rust repair (not even close to that bad of rust either), I would just reshell, unless you have some sort of attachment to the car. I repaired mine because it was my first car and I didn't want to get rid of it. And even then, I still almost sold it about half way through fixing it. That's how bad it gets once you start removing more and more panels, and more and more undercoating. I thought it would be a simple remove paint, weld in a couple small patches, and then paint again. Boy was I wrong... 3d_frown: In hind sight, I shouldn't have even bought that car...
I'll be doing some extensive rust repair, and I'm NOT looking forward to it.
In my case, the only reason that I'm even considering it is that I've had this car for a very long time, and spent a large number of hours in the driver's seat. I have zero expectation that there will be any value added to the car aside from the purely sentimental value that putting almost a half million kilometers on the chassis has developed for me.
What you have is pretty close to what I've got, and I'd bet would be the same amount of work. I've got some rust on the subframes as well, but I don't care, because those can be more easily replaced since they bolt on, and in fact when I do all this, I'll have them off anyway. Even given the sentimental value of the car... I'd just swap to a new chassis if I can get a clean chassis that needs a drivetrain.
In my case, the only reason that I'm even considering it is that I've had this car for a very long time, and spent a large number of hours in the driver's seat. I have zero expectation that there will be any value added to the car aside from the purely sentimental value that putting almost a half million kilometers on the chassis has developed for me.
What you have is pretty close to what I've got, and I'd bet would be the same amount of work. I've got some rust on the subframes as well, but I don't care, because those can be more easily replaced since they bolt on, and in fact when I do all this, I'll have them off anyway. Even given the sentimental value of the car... I'd just swap to a new chassis if I can get a clean chassis that needs a drivetrain.
Well about that ... I live in Alberta lol.. If we're lucky we see 4 months of dry weather ... So for me to find a shell for under 5000 with minimal rust is a chore in its self ... I have only driven lhd and prefer it .... A lot of affordable supras are rhd ... And let's not forget that we're talking about a 23 year old vehicle... Most around me have rust and the ones that don't go for 5-10k so to me I honestly would break around even either way I do it ...
Yeah, I'm about 3 hours north of you, so I understand the trials of finding a rust-free chassis. This is also the reason that my chassis is worse. It was pristine when I got it in 1996.
My plan is actually to make fibreglass quarters. Nowhere near ideal, but should still look good enough when I'm done. That and if I have to find metal good enough to weld in, I might as well just find the whole chassis good enough to use.
My plan is actually to make fibreglass quarters. Nowhere near ideal, but should still look good enough when I'm done. That and if I have to find metal good enough to weld in, I might as well just find the whole chassis good enough to use.
http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-veh...a-JDM-Type-R-Rolling-Shell-W0QQAdIdZ436294652
here are the quarter panels you need.....
along with spare rear end/ power folding mirrors, JDM taillights, ...
might be faster to swap firewalls/dashboard though...
here are the quarter panels you need.....
along with spare rear end/ power folding mirrors, JDM taillights, ...
might be faster to swap firewalls/dashboard though...
Lmao ... That guy had the car posted for $800 dollars and I could never get a response from him ... Then all of a sudden the cr becomes 1500... But to be honest that's the one I've been planning to buy ... Its rhd so I think I'd be cutting the quarters off ..
Shifter, no. Hand brake, you'd want to swap over a LHD assembly, but you've got that with your existing chassis.
^handbrake bracket probably has about 10 spot welds holding it in, remove/replace...
and yes it would be a humongous pain, pull motor + entire dashboard,
shit while in there might as well change the chassis harness... since R/L a-pillar conections are mirrored...
^couldn't find better photos, the angle and colours make it look mis-aligned but I assure you it is with 1/2mm everywhere (which I am told is well within tolerance)
not sure what you were talking about with regards to cutting body lines?
as you can see everything but the b-pillar is hidden under garnish/trim/bumper- I'm not trying to hide repairs that are not regularly visible....
^this is what I replaced it for 3 good dents (1 from a forklift of all things/taillight) and a previous bondojob that compromised the seams thereby rusting inside out....
and yes it would be a humongous pain, pull motor + entire dashboard,
shit while in there might as well change the chassis harness... since R/L a-pillar conections are mirrored...
^couldn't find better photos, the angle and colours make it look mis-aligned but I assure you it is with 1/2mm everywhere (which I am told is well within tolerance)
not sure what you were talking about with regards to cutting body lines?
as you can see everything but the b-pillar is hidden under garnish/trim/bumper- I'm not trying to hide repairs that are not regularly visible....
^this is what I replaced it for 3 good dents (1 from a forklift of all things/taillight) and a previous bondojob that compromised the seams thereby rusting inside out....