Rear end

willfish

been here since 2003
Apr 23, 2005
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ok, really stuck here guys..

the 2 bottom screws, that blots the differential to a cross member thinger a my doo,, well, I think I stripped them both.. there is some resistance, but there both just spinn, an ain't comming out ....
what do I do, break out the codless drill an drill em out ?


Will
 

foreverpsycotic

Back in the game!
Jul 16, 2006
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ouch, BTW, with a r154 and 4.30 the speedo is saying 70 and the rpms are around 3300. also 110-115 is about the top of 4th.
 

willfish

been here since 2003
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foreverpsycotic said:
ouch, BTW, with a r154 and 4.30 the speedo is saying 70 and the rpms are around 3300. also 110-115 is about the top of 4th.

um, thats kinda greek to me... what all do you mean, an what all do i have to do ?

I thought that I just swap out the differential, an i'm as good as I was before...

an how do I tell what differential I have.... etc.

Will
 

starscream5000

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Aug 23, 2006
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Your profile confuses me. It says that you have a 7M-GTE 1990, but with a W58 tranny... Was it once an NA? Or does it actually have the R154? If it came off the dealship as a 1990 turbo then you have a 3.73 (Could be 3.71, can't remember at the moment) rear end. If it came out as a non turbo, then it could either be the 4.10 open dif (only one tire spins when you do a burnout) or the 4.30 sport package LSD.
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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N/A's had 4.30 differentials, whether open or LSD. At least in the US.


Willfish, so the two bolts which secure the diff to the subframe are spinning? Sounds like the nuts inside the subframe broke loose from their welds. It's happened before. The last time I recall it being mentioned on here the owner had to cut a large hole (approx 1"x1") in the subframe so he could secure the nut. I think if you drilled a small hole offset just enough you might be able to wedge a screw driver in there to hold it in place. I'd at least try that before making a larger hole.
 

willfish

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Apr 23, 2005
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starscream5000 said:
Your profile confuses me. It says that you have a 7M-GTE 1990, but with a W58 tranny... Was it once an NA? Or does it actually have the R154? If it came off the dealship as a 1990 turbo then you have a 3.73 (Could be 3.71, can't remember at the moment) rear end. If it came out as a non turbo, then it could either be the 4.10 open dif (only one tire spins when you do a burnout) or the 4.30 sport package LSD.

i might have clicked something differnt by mistake... it was manual transmission turbo out the dealer...
if I dump the clutch to lay tire, both tires spin,,, so you tell me what i got since I dont know.... how can I tell ?

Will
 

willfish

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CRE said:
N/A's had 4.30 differentials, whether open or LSD. At least in the US.


Willfish, so the two bolts which secure the diff to the subframe are spinning? Sounds like the nuts inside the subframe broke loose from their welds. It's happened before. The last time I recall it being mentioned on here the owner had to cut a large hole (approx 1"x1") in the subframe so he could secure the nut. I think if you drilled a small hole offset just enough you might be able to wedge a screw driver in there to hold it in place. I'd at least try that before making a larger hole.

sounds like I'm fucked them, from what your saying ? fuck !
Any work on how to get the axels off the differential, ? I got all six nuts offf ? another question,, is there 2 nuts, or bolts/ nuts at the top of the differential by the fuel filter that need taken off,? they seem impossible to get at with a socket or wrench....


Will
 

starscream5000

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willfish said:
lol,, ok, cool, , ok, got any advise on my differential dilima ?:biglaugh:


Will


I've got my own problems with stubborn bolts not wanting to come out. The one in question sheared off and I'm in the process of drilling it out, but it's one tough ass bolt and it laughs in the face of any drill bit I throw at it... Believe me, if I knew an easy way to get one of those out, I'd share! ;)
 

willfish

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a co worker suggessted this,, ,, what all do you guys think ?


maybe on the opposite side of the cross frame member,, cut a whole in it large enough for a wrench. then obviously put that wrench on the nut that someone said here busted off from the welds... to get it off, an re bolt after swapping out the differntial..
then .

after swapping ouit the differential, get a piece of metal an weld it over the piece i cut out.....

what all you guys think ?

Will
 

starscream5000

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Make sure that there's actually a nut there before you go cutting. I'm not sure, becuase I've never dropped my pumpkin, but just confirm with some of the guys on here that have done it and have had similar problems.
 

willfish

been here since 2003
Apr 23, 2005
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CRE said:
N/A's had 4.30 differentials, whether open or LSD. At least in the US.


Willfish, so the two bolts which secure the diff to the subframe are spinning? Sounds like the nuts inside the subframe broke loose from their welds. It's happened before. The last time I recall it being mentioned on here the owner had to cut a large hole (approx 1"x1") in the subframe so he could secure the nut. I think if you drilled a small hole offset just enough you might be able to wedge a screw driver in there to hold it in place. I'd at least try that before making a larger hole.


according to CRE there is....


Will
 

CRE

7M-GE + MAFT Pro + T = :D
Oct 24, 2005
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Someone just went through this. IIRC, he said that when he cut the frame open he found that the nut itself wasn't welded down, but there's a metal cap that holds it in place which is supposed to be welded down.

If you're going to be cutting the frame, I'd go and just weld it back in place from the start... provided you've got the tools. You're going to need to weld it back in place anyway (unless this is just off a parts car in which case I'd just pull out the angle grinder).
 

willfish

been here since 2003
Apr 23, 2005
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CRE said:
Someone just went through this. IIRC, he said that when he cut the frame open he found that the nut itself wasn't welded down, but there's a metal cap that holds it in place which is supposed to be welded down.

If you're going to be cutting the frame, I'd go and just weld it back in place from the start... provided you've got the tools. You're going to need to weld it back in place anyway (unless this is just off a parts car in which case I'd just pull out the angle grinder).

angle frinder to cut the hole right ? my buddy has a spare supra for parts...,

Will
 

willfish

been here since 2003
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CRE said:
That'd work, I just meant to cut the bolts off though.


well, I bougfht a cutting wheel for my dremal... I guess alot better than a angle grinder,, specially to get in small areas to cut a 1" x 1.5" rectangular hole..
on 1 side there is this covering folded box looking cap like I believe you said, ,, i think it was welded to the cross frame, so I had to bust it loose...

, does any one know what the size is of the nut... ,, would really appreciate it...

Will