Rear BBK anyone?

disturbed1

New Member
Jan 10, 2006
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thought id share what i discovered rather then keep a secret...

evo brembo calipers + sti rear rotors = instant rear bbk (no brakets required)

that is all
 

disturbed1

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Jan 10, 2006
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evo 8.

05+ sti rotors..

u will need to open out the bore on the sti rotor from 58 to 60mm. (may also need a washer to adjust the offset)
 

disturbed1

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Jan 10, 2006
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in simple turms, make the hole in the centre of the rotor 2mm bigger so that it registers on the hub.

correct stock hb compatible

will need to remove dust shield and perhaps run a small spacer behind the rotor to get offset spot on..

will post pics tomorrow once my rotors get bored out that 2mm...
 

gats

Rebuilding... Slowly!
Mar 3, 2009
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Nice work :)

I know only some STI's have a 5x114.3 PCD (US models IIRC?), how easy is it to track down those rotors???
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Scruggs86.5T;1738272 said:
Whats the deal with the combination valve for rear pressure, what would need to be done to it?

With our without ABS? I jumped the gun on that one.

All cars have valves that put a small amount of brake fluid to the rear first to prevent lock up. Then the front is added. It is probably integraded on the ABS cars and many Turbo models have ABS.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
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from our vendor Rockauto, here is some quick prices for reference:

RAYBESTOS Part # 980355 Rotor Rear; WRX STi CAD$36.03
CENTRIC Part # 14246532 Loaded Caliper Rear Left CAD$197.59 (that's with core)

so around $470 (before using any vendor codes) for upgraded rears, then add in any mods/machining of the rotor required.
 

te72

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Mar 26, 2006
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bioskyline;1738223 said:
thats easy, thanks for the info! off to the junk yard tommorow to price them out
I know that we're talking about Mitsubishi parts here, but how many Evos do you see in junkyards? :p

gwumpkus;1738260 said:
could u explain "opening up the bore" to a noob pls?..:)
Know any machinists? Best way to go about doing something like this. Basically you're just grinding away material from the center of the mounting surface, as the bore of the rotor and the bore of the hub need to match. Same idea with wheels, if your center bore is bigger on your hub than on your wheel, you're going to have headaches getting that wheel to fit...

On the original subject, awesome info man! Might not be as light as some of the aftermarket applications, but still... can't beat the price, would just need to get a proportioning valve to get the balance right, correct?