Radiator question

[Schmutzler]

I have a radiator that is leaking at the top. It appears as if it's leaking where the cap is on the top. Not the cap that you open to fill it, but the whole cap that goes the width of the radiator. It's just barely too hard to get to from the front of the car. I'm wondering how difficult it is, and how much time is involved in removing the radiator to patch this leak?

Or, if some Stopleak type stuff is ok or would work for this problem. It's a slow but persistent drip of coolant.

 

[mkIIIman089]

http://cygnusx1.net/supra/library/TSRM/co/CO_10.html

Thats how you disassemble the radiator. Is it worth it? ehh, its up to you if you want to do it. For me? I would use it as an excuse to get a PWR.

 

[glntom]

I took the easy way out and bought an CSF replacement, just pulled my stocker(leaking in top tank) and chunked it., I drove 390 miles across texas (94+degrees) and back 2 weeks ago running 75+mph with a/c, never got over 1/3 on temp gauge :icon_bigg

 

[1989MKIII]

yeah i just got my car running from a leaky radiator, and i got a koyo, and it never once got hot, im really happy, so fare on my way home, i killed 2 civics and a old school turbo eclipse. so im happy :icon_bigg ....

 

[Schmutzler]

That's all well and good with aftermarket replacements, but is it a pain to remove the stock radiator to repair it? That's probably what I'll do since there's nothing else wrong with it for now.

 

[shaeff]

no. drain the coolant, pull the two thick hoses off (feed and return) and the little one going to the resivour. pull out the bolts holding the obvious retainers right on the top of the radiator, and then it just pulls straight up.

disconnect the A/C fans too.

its much easier if you remove the main fan as well...

estimated time to remove - less than an hour for someone who's not familiar with it.

i get mine out in about 20 minutes working at my normal pace.

-shaeff

 

[GrimJack]

i get mine out in about 20 minutes working at my normal pace.

-shaeff

Agreed. The only thing that is even vaguely difficult is the 4 nuts holding on the clutch fan. Everything else is really basic.

I'll second the option to just buy another rad - the stock units have composite top and bottom sections, and IMHO they are getting too old to be reliable now. I patched mine, it sprung another leak in a different spot, I patched that, then the entire top split from one side to the other. I patched the whole thing with JB Weld and it held for the week or so that it took to get a new rad ordered in.

 

[Schmutzler]

Thanks for the info, Shaeff and Grim. I think I'll try to patch this first, if it keeps leaking, I'll get a Fluidyne, PWR, or Griffin. Any recommendations or preferences?

 

[GrimJack]

PWR. Fantastic performance, decent price, and bolts up like stock.

 

[Schmutzler]

PWR's website lists the radiator for the MK3 at $840. Is this correct, or is that Australian currency or something. That seems like an astronomical amount to pay for a radiator.

 

[suprana1990]

do a search and you could find a lot of places sell a performance rad. well it is a little bit better than the stock.

if you got the cash go a head and purchase one of the few name brand rads. all these member is naming.

 

[suprabad]

Thats crazy money for the average guy who needs a radiator. I have found you can buy a replacement radiator that drops right it but isnt plastic (composite) for around $200-$250 dollars all day long that works better and is more durable then that stock pos. BE WARNED!!! I patched my last broken one while I hemmed and hawed and "decided what to do" and my heel dragging cost me a blown head gasket and I bet I'm not the only person that ever shot himself in the foot this way. As you may or may not know these cars are very suceptible to a BHG! Don't put yourself through this unnecessary expense and hassle...GO BUY A NEW RADIATOR...DO IT NOW!
Peace Out

 

[Schmutzler]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I'll take it all into consideration.

 

[mrnickleye]

do a search and you could find a lot of places sell a performance rad. well it is a little bit better than the stock.

if you got the cash go a head and purchase one of the few name brand rads. all these member is naming.

And if you don't have the cash now, you can get a OEM style replacement off internet(w/free shipping) for $120. Make sure you flush the block real good, and use new coolant, cap, hoses, clamps, and thermostat.

 

[Schmutzler]

Ok, some of you were right. I patched the radiator, and it's leaking somewhere else now. Oh well, so I'm looking into maybe getting a OEM replacement. I've seen some offers of limited lifetime warranties. Can I get some guidance? What's a good online store? Is there a catch to the lifetime warranty?

Thanks.

 

[Supraholic]

radiator.com ?? they have lifetime warranty.. and have metal end tanks for the radiator they ship..

 

[Wendigo]

Anything wrong with the KOYO on Ebay for $125?
.....................I'll admit it, I have an E-problem

 

[billspreston01]

I just bought the ebay koyo radiator. It was $142 shipped which isn't bad considering toyota wanted like $390 for a stocker haha. The koyo looks EXACTLY like the stock one. I haven't put it in yet (still waiting on my new turbo) but it seems to be pretty nice for the price.

 

[Schmutzler]

Ok, thanks or the tips.

 

[bluemax]

I don't think you can fix the radiator.
The top is plastic. How do you plan on patching it? I guess you can slap some epoxy over it.

I think its better to get an aftermarket one. The aftermarket ones perform much better than the stock one. The plastic tanks act as an insulator, where as the metal tanks transfer heat out better. The aftermarket ones are usually thicker and have more cooling surface area.

Don't forget to get a new cap too. The caps should be replaced every so often. They have caused a lot of overheating problems with owners.