R/O Rule Out BHG plz check my work

[Who]

I had a coolant spill over last weekend after a highway drive. The temp gauge did not move but I don't put much faith on that. The next day I checked the rad and it was full but the reservoir tank was empty. I went to autozone and rented a block test kit, coolant pressure kit, compression test kit. Please check my numbers, photos of the spark plugs and give me your opinion. Note that the cold and hot test numbers vary on both the coolant pressure test and the cylinder compression test. I have no white smoke but I do puff blue smoke on the first start after letting the engine sit for a week.

Coolant pressure test:

Cold Test...... no drop in pressure held 17lbs for hours and no fluid leaks.

Started the car and I did a block fluid test and it came up negative.

I ran the engine until it reached operating temp with the coolant pressure tester on. No spikes in coolant pressure and the needle held steady and did not fluctuate. Varied the rpms and still no change in coolant pressure.

Did the block fluid test again and it came up negative. The test kit reagent is good because I placed the sniffer at the tail pipe and it turned yellow.

Turned off the car and did the coolant pressure test again with a warm engine.

Hot coolant pressure test.....I brought the pressure up to 17lbs. No leaks but I lost 0.5lbs after 2 minutes, lost 1.0lbs after 5 minutes, 3lbs after 15 minutes.

I tested the cap it blew off at 13psi. but leaked down so I replaced it with a new one.

Now 24 hours later I went for a drive and brought the engine up to operating temp for a compression test.

First thing I noticed was that the spark plug valleys were full of oil especially plugs 5 and 6. I tried to get as much oil out of the valley as I could before removing the plugs but I felt I was loosing engine temp. Some oil might of went in cylinder 5 and 6 but I cannot confirm this. I did look at the cylinder heads and all the heads looked clean and bright except for 5 and 6. 5 and 6 looked dark and burnt.

Cylinder compression test warm.....

Cylinder:

1... 125 , 127
2... 130 , 127
3... 115, 115
4... 126 , 130
5... 140 , 140
6... 160 , 160

:aigo: Dumbfounded

I did the test again and the engine temp had dropped considerably by now.

Cylinder:

1... 135
2... 135
3... 127
4... 130
5... 145
6... 160

Pictures of plugs. Note Plug number 3 looks rusty for a better lack of words and plug 5 and 6 are dirty.

 

[mkiiichip]

how does you radiator cap look. did you test it? that would be my guess.
Also check the inner and outer sealing surfaces for the radiator cap (on the cap and radiator itself) they tend to get corroded. It has two surfaces that need to be smooth and evin to get a proper seal.

Was the coolant coming from the rad cap area or the reservoir? Do you have a Clutch fan or electric?

 

[Who]

I replaced the rad cap and tested the new one. The radiator is new and the mating surface is smooth. I have a clutch fan. It is working as it should. It locks down at first start and than starts to release. As the temp rises during the idle I can hear the clutch fan engaging and moving more air.

 

[IJ.]

Looking into each plug hole bring that cylinder up to TDC and check the tops of the pistons for carbon, any that are clean will indicate a BHG.
(borescope makes it easyer but you may not have access to one)

 

[Who]

So if the piston top looks clean and new than that is wrong (bad news). Basically the piston is being steam cleaned. If the piston top looks brown and cruddy that's ok.
I don't have a boroscope but I think we have a endoscope at work.
TY

 

[IJ.]

LMAO yep an endo will do the job just fine (make sure it's poo free though) :runaway:

 

[Who]

OK I took a look with the scope and my naked eye. Piston head 1 and 2 look clean like they are made of a dull finish AL. Number 3 looks a little dirtier and 4, 5, 6 are full of carbon and cruddy with oil an such. :icon_cry:

 

[MKIIINA]

that makes sense... usually 5/6 that blow but sounds like 1,2 is your candidate

 

[Who]

Well I am going to start taking her apart. This would be my first major repair on any engine. I called a few shops but the labor alone starts at $1000. Worst case scenario is I fail and I tow it to a shop so hell why not go for it. I will start a new thread in the build section and any suggestions and help would be appreciated. Thanks all.