so other than a pretty serious mod there is not way to get proper camber once lowered? no matter how you do the drop?
Quick question on Camber
- Thread starter SupraMadness
- Start date
must be why with cut springs that fell off the rear spring mount (p.o. fail) i was slideways at the chance of rain but after i switched to eibachs i can take off in a downpour
i didn't even consider the slammed ride camber change
i didn't even consider the slammed ride camber changebut technicly you should still have had off camber and toe from the drop....but i have to assume that since there have been so many drops done and alot of smart guys overflowing with info that some one has to know the best we can get in number form so we know exactly what to tell the shop to put caber and tow it...fingers crossed.
jrot;1674512 said:
is there a "better" camber/tow than what the local shop would have aligned it??? is there a perfect medium between tire wear and handling?? i guess i need to play around with forza 3 a lil more lol
Lol video games dont mean real life.
That pic looks photoshopped.
If you want to fit insane wheels stretch the fuck out of the tires. Adding insane amount of camber looks retarded. Seriously. There is no way never you could convince me that the pic above looks good.
Any where from -1.0-1.4 is good. Though -1.4 is kinda pushing it and you will prolly get inside tires wear. I run -1.4front and -1.2 rear. Perfect tire wear in the rear and zero problems. Front get a lil inside problems. There is people fitting 10.5 rims and big tires slammed and they dont have slanted ugly wheels. You need proper fitment.
That pic looks photoshopped.
If you want to fit insane wheels stretch the fuck out of the tires. Adding insane amount of camber looks retarded. Seriously. There is no way never you could convince me that the pic above looks good.
Any where from -1.0-1.4 is good. Though -1.4 is kinda pushing it and you will prolly get inside tires wear. I run -1.4front and -1.2 rear. Perfect tire wear in the rear and zero problems. Front get a lil inside problems. There is people fitting 10.5 rims and big tires slammed and they dont have slanted ugly wheels. You need proper fitment.
jrot;1674488 said:
Front adjusters have enough range to cover it no matter how low you go, rears are another matter but the "serious" Mod is a 15 minute job and not really serious to get it back in the middle of the adjustment range when lowered.
Poodles;1674547 said:
hehe I read about that VW Golf somewhere before. He had used bolts to get extreme camber :S
well anything that involves cutting and welding especially on something like a control arm is pretty serious to me...and i dont have a welder nor the skill to do it so i have to trust someone else to do it...and thats "serious'....or did i read the process wrong? and IJ... when you say front adjusters are you refering to the stock camber bolts or is there a kit that needs to be bought? and hvyman...so if you went -1.0 all around would you be pretty well set and not have to worry about too much tire wear?
-1.0 camber is less than a lot of cars have from the factory, as long as your other specs are normal, the tires should wear fine.
Find yourself a knowledgeable alignment shop who know and are comfortable with modified street cars. They should be able to give you a lot of insight on what you want to do and how it will work, and suggest different solutions to get a similar result.
Beware, though. Places like that specialize in high performance cars and are usually not what you would consider cheap, but it will be worth it.
Find yourself a knowledgeable alignment shop who know and are comfortable with modified street cars. They should be able to give you a lot of insight on what you want to do and how it will work, and suggest different solutions to get a similar result.
Beware, though. Places like that specialize in high performance cars and are usually not what you would consider cheap, but it will be worth it.
Just for reference, acceptable range in the front suspension are as follows:
Camber -0.7º - +0.3º
Caster +7.2º - +8.2º
Toe -0.04º - +0.04º
Rear suspension:
Camber -1.3º - -0.3º
Toe +0.012 - +0.20º
Camber -0.7º - +0.3º
Caster +7.2º - +8.2º
Toe -0.04º - +0.04º
Rear suspension:
Camber -1.3º - -0.3º
Toe +0.012 - +0.20º
Dylan JZ;1674657 said:
I was thinking of the knuckles RHDJAPAN sells, my bad. Thats for steering angle, not camber.
thanks for the info guys hope im not the only one getting help here...hell it wasnt even my thread but ive always wondered about this stuff and my lowering is just around the corner....
I wasnt looking for massive camber either lol. just a little tad of it. But this really helped alot. Thanks guys.
xzeror;1673460 said:
Ok, so I took my car back to the shop for alignment (Firestone, NOT a race or suspension shop), after installing all of my new camber bolts. I'm running ZP stealth attack coilovers and 18x10's (+38 offset) w/ 275/40/18 in the back. I've lowered to have approximately 0.5" clearance between the tire and the wheel well edge in the back. The shop tells me the LEAST amount of negative camber they can achieve is -1.7, which I think is wayyyy too much. I was hoping for around -1.0 to 1.3 MAX (I want my rubber to last). Are they limited to -1.7 because of the ride height I've got it at?
So I'm guessing I need to
1) Raise ride height perhaps another .05"
2) I need to tell them to forget about hitting the toe, just to focus on getting my camber where I want it
Will this allow me to get bring the camber back up to where I want it?