Im looking for any information about the stinger brand Standalone ECU. I have seen it a few different places and has claims about doing a good job of controlling everything I would need on my supra, so I am wondering if anyone has it in their car, has worked with the tuning of it, or generally knows anything about it. I am looking into it as a possible ECU for my supra when I am done. I am also hoping to push about 700-900hp out of my car when complete. Still not sure on all the specifics, but that is my goal. So any info on the stinger standalone would be greatly appreciated.
Questions on a standalone ECU
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Is that a leprechaun or a "wish from Santa"..?
either way I think Ian is saying that's a pipe dream, bro. I'd listen to him, he knows muchie about this chit.
either way I think Ian is saying that's a pipe dream, bro. I'd listen to him, he knows muchie about this chit.
rawmk3;1372203 said:
Possible, but be willing to spend a boat load of money.
Maybe not with a stinger, but a Haltech, or some other proven High HP capable standalone.
Don't even think about using any cheap parts.
Make sure you do everything 100% correct when you build it.
Don't try anything strange, or new, or what some other member says you should do,
unless he has an 800hp 7M that actually lives longer than a week.
And pray a lot !
Think about it for a minute...a top power motor on the cheapest (and one of the least capable) EMS's out there. I'm not saying the Stinger is bad, I'm saying why would you use this EMS to control a motor that is going to be very, very expensive to build...you need the best EMS (Motec) that's available. On that note, there will need to be a whole lot more addressed building the engine for that kind of power...not to mention the tune.
I'm thinking the OP need to reaccess the power vs $$$ equation here. Right now this is a bit unrealistic.
I'm thinking the OP need to reaccess the power vs $$$ equation here. Right now this is a bit unrealistic.
Least capable how? Excuse my lack of ems knowledge. It seems to have adequate points on fuel and ignition maps. Are the capabilities you speak of like drive by wire and traction control?
Or does it have to do with accuracy of fuel and ignition delivery?
Or does it have to do with accuracy of fuel and ignition delivery?
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Adequate is a good way to put it.
You don't think you're going to have traction problems at 900 HP? You guys kill me...have you ever driven a car putting down 900 HP? You think you can just whip one up and drive it on the street with no issues?
Compare to a Motec or an AEM yourself...if you want to dump $10K plus into an engine and then use a Stinger to run it, have at it.
You don't think you're going to have traction problems at 900 HP? You guys kill me...have you ever driven a car putting down 900 HP? You think you can just whip one up and drive it on the street with no issues?
Compare to a Motec or an AEM yourself...if you want to dump $10K plus into an engine and then use a Stinger to run it, have at it.
While it could be done the question would be why?
In a genuine 7>900rwhp build management is such a small component cost wise if you're building something that will last longer than 30 minutes.
Everyone seems to have some strange ideas about what it actually takes to achieve the big numbers on a 7M, have a talk to the guys that have done it and they'll tell you it wasn't cheap or easy and it's NOT just a case of bolting on a monster Turbo and cranking the boost.
A better ECU will pay off in drivability and added functions/features so you don't end up with light switch power delivery.
In a genuine 7>900rwhp build management is such a small component cost wise if you're building something that will last longer than 30 minutes.
Everyone seems to have some strange ideas about what it actually takes to achieve the big numbers on a 7M, have a talk to the guys that have done it and they'll tell you it wasn't cheap or easy and it's NOT just a case of bolting on a monster Turbo and cranking the boost.
A better ECU will pay off in drivability and added functions/features so you don't end up with light switch power delivery.
Exactly! You might be able to put some big numbers down on the dyno, but you're not going to be able to drive it on the street well at all.
The costs of building a motor like this and not using an EMS that can run it worth a damn doesn't add up.
The costs of building a motor like this and not using an EMS that can run it worth a damn doesn't add up.
Ofcourse there would be traction issues with 900 hp on the street but at the same time if I was building a 900hp car I would not be running 900 hp full time. I would lower the boost for the street.
I myself am not building a 900 horsepower car as I understand how muc something like that will cost. I'm shooting for 5 and I'm spending over my budget already.
I wasn't saying it should be done. Just inquiring as to any potential problems with a stinger as it looks like the route I'm going to go.
I don't feel that I can justify the cost or things like traction control or drive by wire as it's ofcourse above my budget and at my level unneeded. I'll be all set with good tires and switchable boost level for fun and more fun. Also bieng auto helps a little.
I'm looking for an ems that works well but doesn't have too many bells and whistles to make it cost more then it would be worth to me.
A motec is worth every penny to someone that will fully utilize it. I don't think that someone is me. As it is I'm having a hard time deciding between the stinger 4 and the 8860.
Do you forsee and problems with the stingers map size or resolution for a mild 500hp build?
I myself am not building a 900 horsepower car as I understand how muc something like that will cost. I'm shooting for 5 and I'm spending over my budget already.
I wasn't saying it should be done. Just inquiring as to any potential problems with a stinger as it looks like the route I'm going to go.
I don't feel that I can justify the cost or things like traction control or drive by wire as it's ofcourse above my budget and at my level unneeded. I'll be all set with good tires and switchable boost level for fun and more fun. Also bieng auto helps a little.
I'm looking for an ems that works well but doesn't have too many bells and whistles to make it cost more then it would be worth to me.
A motec is worth every penny to someone that will fully utilize it. I don't think that someone is me. As it is I'm having a hard time deciding between the stinger 4 and the 8860.
Do you forsee and problems with the stingers map size or resolution for a mild 500hp build?
Im not trying to "skimp" on the EMS at all. I was just trying to find out if the EMS would be able to handle it. As for the build itself its not going to be much of a street use car. I want something that is mainly strip use. As far as getting it to hook up, well that is the least of my concerns. I know im going to break parts in the drive line. I plan to do that. As for the build itself I have all forged internals, a 6m crank, sending the block to get fully balanced and blueprinted, ceramic coated piston crowns, currently have 680cc injectors but will prolly need bigger ones to hit much over 700 hp, running a full race fuel cell and pump for fuel, bigger fuel rail, all new fuel lines, all new components in the motor (oil pump, water pump and so on). I have built other motors over 800whp before but that was V8's. I have seen with my own eyes a 551whp 7m on a stock bottom end, FFIM, cams and fuel system and a VPC. I may also look into getting the crank knife edged as well, but I am not sure how the internally balanced crank will handle that. I have been looking into the AEM EMS for a while now, but I had noticed the stinger one, and didnt know anything about it. I know many people can tune AEM, but I have not seen anything about stinger before. That was the info I was looking for. Is it something people know much about, and can it do the same job as say the AEM? My tuning will more than likely be done at SP in chicago if I use the AEM. Im close enough to go to chicago for tuning and I have been told the MAFT isnt really something to use for that kinda HP as idle would be difficult on larger injectors getting duty cycle low enough. Im not a "tuner" myself, but I dont plan to be doing everything myself. Only as much of my build as I can. As far as people saying you should do this, or that, I dont trust anyone that hasnt done it already themselves. Unless the science behind it adds up. Im not new to building cars, just new to things with the 7m. My last import built was a DSM, so the supra is a bit different. Oh as far as big turbo im looking at a CT-72 from SupraSport. But not for sure yet. One of the guys were correct too, if I have a build pushing 700+ hp its not going to be at all times. I will have multiple maps to run, one for street and one for strip. Also doing a GM trans swap into the car too. TH-400 with transbrake. Anyone see anything I missed feel free to point it out. I want my engine to be as simple as possible. Not much for street use, and def. not concerned with emissions. I have a full turbo back exhaust with test pipe on it already. (came with car)
Also cost isnt much of the concern to me. I just am trying to build a car for something to do, as i am off work from a broken ankle. The money isnt the concern, I just dont want more than I need. I am more of a fan of the older cars, and I want that to reflect in my build. I would rather have a million gauges in my car than some touch screen displaying all i need to know. I have seen someones build using a motec on the build section, but I just dont think that is for me. As far as interior my car will be pretty stripped down. I have race seats from jegs, getting a custom cage built for the car at a local chassis shop, and I'll have an OEM dash shell but that is about it for OEM interior. All custom dash cluster as opposed to the OEM one. All heat and AC components are already removed, ABS is going to make way for line lock and nonABS lines. Looking to run as wide of a drag radial as I can possibly squeeze in there, but im also looking at making something of a wide body kit in the rear end due to some rust issues at the wheel well. So I want to add about 2 inches extra on the side and cover up the fuel door and fill neck as I plan to run a fuel cell in the hatch where the spare once was. Remote mount battery and gutting as much as humanly possible out of the car to save weight. For now the OEM rear end is staying in the car until I break something, then its getting a 4link and 12bolt. After I destroy the 7m (which will happen someday as with all motors) I am planning to small block the car and put it on pinks. LOL Just cause by that point I will be on another project car. I am also looking at some things like magnetic pickup and getting rid of the CPS, going with an MSD system, and a bottle. Considering putting a bottle on the firewall and running the line down the frame rail out of sight as to not let people know its there till its to late. Only thing I am still waiting to find out about is a FFIM as I am looking to see what supra sport comes out with and if it will work for what I would like. But as origionally posted in my first one, I am having a goal of 700+ whp, but I will see what I get at first and go from there. Unless I throw a rod thru the block on start up, I can always change things later if I dont get the numbers I would like.
IJ.;1372687 said:
I was trying to get those who actually know about this. I am unfamiliar with this ECU, so I was trying to get the information to help me figure out what I can do with it. I have a small laptop that will be kept for the car and have maps on it for what I may need if I am able to do it that route.
I am not looking to make HUGE power numbers by bolting on a monster turbo and cranking the boost. I am actually trying to build more of a race car out of this for strait line racing. I know everyone says the supra is shit for anything other than racing from a roll, but I am willing to try to make something "quick" by todays standards.
I dont want a lot of things I dont need, and as for things like Temp, oil, voltage and so on, I dont want just 1 unit telling it all to me. I want a bunch of gauges, so I can see what I want at a glance, not scrolling thru a menu to find what I want to see.
Im not knocking those who use things like motec, or haltech or anything like that. I just want things simple and strait forward. I dont need anything fancy. All i want is it to be fast and not break the first pass. No trailer queen, and no dyno monster.
I want it to have a bite that is as mean as its bark. All show and no go? Not here. I am not looking for cheap, nor easy. I am looking for the best way to make decent power, and easiest to tune. If I am able to do it for less than a million dollar build great, if not, it just takes a little longer and its done more meticulously. I Love the detail I have seen in your work Ian.
You have great new idea's and have a lot of respect for the work I have seen from you. All I was looking for was info about the tunability and operation of the stinger EMS. As stated origionally, all I was looking for was info, not that im using that EMS, or anything other than it was a consideration as long as it was capable of pulling the numbers I would like to see.
I am not far from sound performance and plan on getting a lot of advice from them and possibly work done from them too. If I feel i can not handle something, then I will send it to them, as I have seen the work they produce. Like marco's 1500whp MK4.
I dont need that, but evidently they know what they are doing. If I can get the stinger to do what I need it to for a grand as opposed to getting an AEM for 1800 that will do the same thing, then logically I would like to spend less. But if the stinger wont cut it, then the AEM would be worth the extra.
I dont mean to seem like I know it all because I dont, but people dont need to be dicks when I ask a simple question about a product im unfamiliar with and basically say im dumb without having a valid reason behind it. And as far as using the search function to find the info, I have had times where i cant find the damn search tab.
Can't read any of that ^ can you break it into double spaced paragraphs and I'll give it another shot....
The stinger is actually a very capable ecu. First off i will note the reliabilty as i have been runnig one daily for over a year now. I have run the ecu on 550's and for the last year or so on 1000cc injectors. For your goals i would run the 8860 as it has a map sensor that reads higher than the stinger.
Any real benefit of sequential fuel injection over batch fire? Stock is batch so thats why i ask. Still trying to decide between the stinger 4 and the 8860 and thats really the biggest difference as far as im concerned, besides the slightly larger maps and more outputs.
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