questions about e-fans and water temp senders

[CajunKenny]

Well the sender for my gauge is thread in but the one that's connected to the fan controller is the push through type. I ordered the fan controller from suprasport and did not kno that it wasn't going to be thread in. Any (effective/safe) way to modify or change the one they have me into a thread in type? There is no quick disconnect or anything on the controller...it was the cheaper, like $40 one..any thoughts?

That's normal. That's the type I have too. You want to install it as close to the radiator inlet as possible.

On mine, I couldn't install it directly under the inlet because of the fan housing. IIRC, mine is about ~2" below the rad inlet. I'd go check; but, my rad is currently out of the car.

Something else to remember is that your radiator HAS to be isolated from ground. You can't have any part of the probe touching metal because if you do, it'll short you radiator to ground and stray currents will eat through your rad core in a matter of days.

I completely wrapped the wire with electrical tape. All the way from the probe end to the thermostat control end.

 

[7M-KDL]

Incorrect. btw...

which part? and without the correct information or a link to the correct info, your post is just plain unhelpful

and cajun: i planned on wrapping the probe wire with electrical rubber, or do you think it will melt? also, this may be a super-noob question but which in the radiator inlet, the top or bottom hose? and where did you mount your controller since it has to be with 18" of the probe?

 

[mkIIIman089]

which part? and without the correct information or a link to the correct info, your post is just plain unhelpful

Everything (There is only one part). The temp probe should be plumbed in such a way that the hottest water hits it before the radiator, therefor the fans kick on before the core even gets the rush from the thermostat initial open. No "takes a minute" what-so-ever.

Having the fan kick in a few degrees after the thermostat opens is ideal for efficiency. Once they kick on, they'll never shut off again.

 

[7M-KDL]

Everything (There is only one part). The temp probe should be plumbed in such a way that the hottest water hits it before the radiator, therefor the fans kick on before the core even gets the rush from the thermostat initial open. No "takes a minute" what-so-ever.

Having the fan kick in a few degrees after the thermostat opens is ideal for efficiency. Once they kick on, they'll never shut off again.

gotcha, thanks. to clarify, you're saying that if i set the fans to come on lower than when the thermostat opens then once they kick on they will just stay on? so, i should set the controller to come on a little after the t-stat opens, like 195* or something?

 

[mkIIIman089]

Right, because normally on/off are a ~20* spread. So, on at 195 won't shut back off until 175. Well below the stock 88C thermostat, IE: never.

I used a 195 temp switch with the stock thermostat temp and it worked brilliantly. (SPAL fan, switch, and relay)

 

[7M-KDL]

Right, because normally on/off are a ~20* spread. So, on at 195 won't shut back off until 175. Well below the stock 88C thermostat, IE: never.

I used a 195 temp switch with the stock thermostat temp and it worked brilliantly. (SPAL fan, switch, and relay)

you just hacked the signal from the stock sender and sent it to your switch?

 

[mkIIIman089]

(SPAL fan, switch, and relay)

 

[CajunKenny]

and cajun: i planned on wrapping the probe wire with electrical rubber, or do you think it will melt? also, this may be a super-noob question but which in the radiator inlet, the top or bottom hose? and where did you mount your controller since it has to be with 18" of the probe?

Electrical rubber should be fine.

Coolant flows in to the radiator through the upper hose and out to the block through the lower hose. So, install your probe as near to the upper inlet as possible.

I mount mine just behind the fuse block. There was an empty threaded hole there. I routed all my wires in front of the battery.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Insulating an already relatively slow probe sensor even further with electrical tape is a bad idea with no upside.

 

[CajunKenny]

Insulating an already relatively slow probe sensor even further with electrical tape is a bad idea with no upside.

Actually, it's a must for radiator life.

If the FAL Probe does not have the little rubber nipple on the end and touches the bracing in front of the rad, it will short the rad to ground.

If the FAL Probe wire (which does not come insulated) touches bare metal anywhere along its route, it shorts the rad to ground.

A rad shorted to ground will last little more than a week before it springs a leak.

No one wants that!

To take it a little further, insulating the probe wire can only benefit performance because the added insulation would prevent quick temp changes from flowing air. Though this is a minimal benefit, it is a benefit.

 

[7M-KDL]

Insulating an already relatively slow probe sensor even further with electrical tape is a bad idea with no upside.

not actually insulating the probe. just insulating the bare wire attached to the probe. or is that what you are talking about?

 

[7M-KDL]

cajun: did you thread the sender for your aftermarket temp gauge into the hole in the bottom of the rad?

 

[CajunKenny]

^Yup.

Here's a pic. Lower left is my gauge. You can also see the FAL controller on the right, behind the fuse block.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Actually, it's a must for radiator life.

If the FAL Probe does not have the little rubber nipple on the end and touches the bracing in front of the rad, it will short the rad to ground.

If the FAL Probe wire (which does not come insulated) touches bare metal anywhere along its route, it shorts the rad to ground.

A rad shorted to ground will last little more than a week before it springs a leak.

No one wants that!

To take it a little further, insulating the probe wire can only benefit performance because the added insulation would prevent quick temp changes from flowing air. Though this is a minimal benefit, it is a benefit.

Wow, had no idea. Further shows what utter cheap junk FAL produces...

 

[CajunKenny]

Wow, had no idea. Further shows what utter cheap junk FAL produces...

Lol... :biglaugh:
I wouldn't call it junk necessarily; but, there are two "must do's" when it comes to the FAL Kit. Replace the in-line fuse holder with a better one and insulate the probe wire.

You may have to do that with other kits too...?

Here's the fuse holder I upgraded to. Except mine is all black.

 

[7M-KDL]

^Yup.

Here's a pic. Lower left is my gauge. You can also see the FAL controller on the right, behind the fuse block.

oooh, your gauge is actually under the hood. i thought you had an in-cockpit one.

 

[mkIIIman089]

Maybe, but I'd never in a million years consider a kit that uses one of those style probes. IMO they have no place in any automotive cooling application... meat thermometer is more where they belong.

As for the fuse thing... give me a break. That is COMPLETELY unacceptable, unless you lot are all putting in the wrong fuse and running more than the rated current through them... which I don't necessarily discount either.

 

[IJ.]

Maybe, but I'd never in a million years consider a kit that uses one of those style probes. IMO they have no place in any automotive cooling application... meat thermometer is more where they belong.

Rectal probe?

 

[mkIIIman089]

^Not in any way surprised...

 

[IJ.]

^Not in any way surprised...

You would be if you got probed