Question: Where is the computer jack for OBD?

[Drake69]

I did the plugs/wires on the '88 Turbo and am getting a code now on the Check Engine light. I plan on buying an ODB code reader anyway for my vehicles, but I don't remember seeing the computer jack for my car yet. Is it under the hood or under the dash like the newer vehicles?

I suspect it's going to be a cylinder misfire from one plug that I had trouble gapping correctly. I thought we had it gapped properly but it seemed like it was a hair wider than the others. I know to gap them 0.031 in. and haven't had any backfires/explosions, but I don't want to run the Supra until I pull that code first. If it's in cylinders 1, 5, or 6, I won't even have to pull the 3000 pipe again to get to it (hopefully!).

 

[GrimJack]

LOL - that plug is in your imagination.

Jumper the plugs in the port under the hood, climb into the car and count the little flashes on the CEL.

 

[suprajztwenty]

they dont have obd...you have to make a jumper wire and connect it between 2 terminals in the diagnostic connector under the hood next to the fuse box. connect between e1 and te1 and turn the key to acc and read the blink code. the flash works as 2 digit codes for example you get code 34 the blink rate would be --- pause ---- pause and repeat if no other codes are present. if it were 24 and 34 it would go (--...----)... (---...----) and then repeats. to clear the codes remove the efi fuse under the hood fuse panel.

im not sure if youre code is going to say misfire, goodluck man

go to the efi section of the tsrm online manual and look for diagnostic codes and theyll tell you what to look for. get back with us when you figure it out

 

[Drake69]

This is why I love coming here. You guys really know your $%^&!!! I'll do the diag wire tomorrow and post up the code(s) I get. Thanks!!!!

 

[shaeff]

T(e)1 and E1

Edit: http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/TechTips/engine_error_codes.aspx

 

[Drake69]

Okay, it threw a "52" at me which is knock sensor. I cleared out the code to see if it comes back (hopefully not!!), but I have another question. Was this caused by my swapping out the plugs and wires? It hasn't shown a check engine light since I bought it back in August, and only now when I do the plugs/wires does it throw a code like that. I remember clearing out the code earlier when I first started the car after replacing stuff, figuring it was just throwing a code out on account of the new plugs, but within the 50 mi. relearn it did it again? Arrgghhh!!!!!

:: angry :::: angry :::3d_frown:

 

[suprajztwenty]

replacing the plugs and wires shouldnt cause the code unless you bumped the wire and broke the insulation.

the o2 and knock sensors are shielded wires...sort of like a coax in a radio system. its a signal core and a shield wire on the outside. (2 wires and 2 sets of insulations all in 1 wire) with old harnesses like mine, if the insulation gets brittle and bends, both insulations gets cracked and the shield wire can make contact on the signal wire. if the harness is good then it might just be a bad sensor...i dont know how common these go out

just curious, what plugs did you install? i guess its possible that theyre not gapped right, or theyre the wrong plug and a missfire could cause a knock code...really not sure, sorry

 

[Drake69]

NGK platinums, I checked a few sources before going with these, but they are rated for the Supra Turbo (and a tad more expensive than the NGK coppers as well!).

Now I gotta figure out where the knock sensors are to see if I pulled damaged anything. Will look it up in Cygnus unless someone can say quicker.

 

[GrimJack]

The knock sensors are under the intake manifold on the side of the block.

There are two on a turbo car and one on an N/A.

 

[suprajztwenty]

1 is almost in line with the strut tower and the other is at the back of the block if that helps, single wire connectors should be green...IF you can even see down there, a mechanics mirror should help a lot

 

[shaeff]

just curious, what plugs did you install? i guess its possible that theyre not gapped right, or theyre the wrong plug and a missfire could cause a knock code...really not sure, sorry

NO! This is absolutely wrong! The ONLY things that will cause Code 52 are the following:

1) Bad wiring (most common)
2) Bad Knock sensor.
3) Bad ECU

Code 52 has nothing to do with detonation, running lean, spark knock, bad plugs, etc... It is an ELECTRICAL problem ONLY!

 

[suprajztwenty]

ok...wow, relax. i thought it could have been a related problem, he did mention he replaced the plugs and THEN the codes came on. i mean they ARE knock sensors...what do they sense? so i didnt know the code was electric issue only...as for dangerously wrong advice, i DID point him in the right direction before i posted that, it was more of a last resort advice...anyways
very sincere apologies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

see just for reference

replacing the plugs and wires shouldnt cause the code unless you bumped the wire and broke the insulation.

the o2 and knock sensors are shielded wires...sort of like a coax in a radio system. its a signal core and a shield wire on the outside. (2 wires and 2 sets of insulations all in 1 wire) with old harnesses like mine, if the insulation gets brittle and bends, both insulations gets cracked and the shield wire can make contact on the signal wire. if the harness is good then it might just be a bad sensor...i dont know how common these go out

 

[jetjock]

In shaeff's defense those in the know here get tired of refuting the same old crap. It can be especially irritating when new people with "enough knowledge to be dangerous" show up. People who don't know what they don't know yet persist in giving advice which is more often than not wrong. The solution to this problem has been stated many times: when dealing with the Tech Section if you don't know for sure, don't post...

 

[IJ.]

"It's better to remain silent and be thought a fool than to open one's mouth and remove all doubt"

 

[suprajztwenty]

i get the point in reading the same old crap everyday...i get that in the kawasaki forums im in and im somewhat of a guru as you 3 are when it comes to that...reading the title is kindve bad enough as it is. but what are forums for if all people ever do is just search? whats the fun in that?

my only defense is that re-checking the gap or check that theyre the proper plugs isnt going to take much time, its not going to make things worse. mis-information, i guess so, yes...but like i said before, it was after the correct advice i gave.

its not like i said go and duct tape all your connectors, super glue the harness so it doesnt move, oh, and then make sure you weld the sensors in place so they wont ever fall out.

i feel like i gave him legit advice, didnt steer him ENTIRELY in the wrong direction and honestly it seems like a lame attempt to attack a new user just because youre frustrated.

warning taken...i get it, i was wrong to an extent...but for it to come to a pm warning is a bit much is all im getting at. i understand theres some real dipshits out there (its the internet...duh) and there needs to be mods to keep things in order, certain topics ill 100% agree with a warning is needed but this is just a little excess dont you think?

 

[IJ.]

Why are you even questioning a warning?

It's just that a warning there is no penalty attached and now you know what's expected in the Tech section.

 

[suprajztwenty]

yea...forget it...i have no defense, fucking internet...wastes so much time, god im a dumbass

 

[IJ.]

yea...forget it...i have no defense, fucking internet...wastes so much time, god im a dumbass

Not at all you're just getting a bit bent over a non issue is all..

Some people can't cope with being pulled up even when totally in the wrong, we live in the the era of the "entitled"

 

[suprajztwenty]

point well taken, thanks ij

 

[Drake69]

Don't sweat it. I'm just as much of a n00b as you are, so it's okay. I have a nasty habit though of reading EVERYTHING before I take action to a problem, so I would've searched this entire forum to source out the specific fixes. It's safer and more responsible to learn as much about an issue before you commit resources to it, or relay that info to someone else. So no harm done.

I'll be monitoring the car for a few days to make sure the problem doesn't return. If it does, I'll pull out the specifics of the sensor and troubleshoot the more common issues like Shaeff said involving the wiring, followed closely by the other possibilities.