I'll be going NA-T soon, and I'm making the list of parts I need. I was wondering if the stock accordian hose is the right size to clamp on to the stock N/A AFM, or if I will need to get a custom pipe made.
-Matt
-Matt
Question regarding turbo accordian hose and N/A AFM
- Thread starter GotToyota?
- Start date
what is needed to do a 1/2 na swap?
-turbo
-piggyback electronics
-intake and exhaust manifold
-downpipe
-IC and piping
-oil cooler
anything else?
-turbo
-piggyback electronics
-intake and exhaust manifold
-downpipe
-IC and piping
-oil cooler
anything else?
Intake manifold isn't neccessary
440 Injectors or better, SAFC, intercooler and piping, oil cooler, turbo, turbo manifold, turbo elbow, downpipe, BOV, better HG (cometic or metal or stock turbo), boost gauge, turbo FPR
That's pretty much it IIRC
440 Injectors or better, SAFC, intercooler and piping, oil cooler, turbo, turbo manifold, turbo elbow, downpipe, BOV, better HG (cometic or metal or stock turbo), boost gauge, turbo FPR
That's pretty much it IIRC
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Matt, you won't last long on NA electronics.
Save up, and spend the money on GTE electronics.
Its only like another 300 or so dollars, and will SAVE you in the long run.
Save up, and spend the money on GTE electronics.
Its only like another 300 or so dollars, and will SAVE you in the long run.
Fuzz420 said:
Yeah I didn't think so either, but it will help prolong the life of the engine and turbo.
Not true, my bud lasted 3+ years on that setup, and he just built another car exactly like it.s383mmber1 said:
-Matt
I have a na-t without the oilcooler and the cars has given me any problems yet. Good luck with the build. Steven
GotToyota? said:
I think were gonna have to go over this on AOL.
But you can NOT deny the fact that GTE electronics are more safe! :biglaugh:
IM me the next time your on!
Fuzz420
Are U Here 2 take My Baby
The GTE electronics are safer, but with fuel tuning it shouldn't be a problem. Also, when I get into the higher boost levels I don't have to deal with FC. 
-Matt
-Matt
^Just an exploding engine, haha ::w00t::
Are you doing a rebuild also? Lower compression pistons or keeping the NA's?
Are you doing a rebuild also? Lower compression pistons or keeping the NA's?
GotToyota? said:The GTE electronics are safer, but with fuel tuning it shouldn't be a problem. Also, when I get into the higher boost levels I don't have to deal with FC.
-Matt
Matt, though avoiding fuel cut is some-what good.
Fuel cut is there for a reason!
Trust me, I know what I'm doing. And also, I have a GTE ecu, I may choose to use it, I may not. Only thing I don't like is that I'll have to get coilpacks.
-Matt
And also, I have a GTE ecu, I may choose to use it, I may not. Only thing I don't like is that I'll have to get coilpacks.-Matt
yes the GTE electronics are better, but it can be done reliably as he is doing it as long as the tuning is spot on.
Oil cooler is a good thing, but dont was your time with the stock toyota setup, it is usuless by design. The stock cooler is to small to be an inline unit and by-passing a small amount really does no a thing for cooling and yes I have checked this myself using digital temp monitoring equipment (fluke meter with a special K-type thermalcouple) the best that we saw with the stock type cooling was only about 5* F not worth the hasle. If you want an oil cooler, use an actual inline unit. The best ones that I have ever used on any car and especially for the price that you can pic them up for is the stock units on the 86-92 Mazda RX-7's. They are very effiecent (and have to be do to the fact that 1/3 of a rotary cooling is done by oil where as on a normal piston engine, that number is about 1/6 or so) and another nice thing that is built in is a thermostat.
Oil cooler is a good thing, but dont was your time with the stock toyota setup, it is usuless by design. The stock cooler is to small to be an inline unit and by-passing a small amount really does no a thing for cooling and yes I have checked this myself using digital temp monitoring equipment (fluke meter with a special K-type thermalcouple) the best that we saw with the stock type cooling was only about 5* F not worth the hasle. If you want an oil cooler, use an actual inline unit. The best ones that I have ever used on any car and especially for the price that you can pic them up for is the stock units on the 86-92 Mazda RX-7's. They are very effiecent (and have to be do to the fact that 1/3 of a rotary cooling is done by oil where as on a normal piston engine, that number is about 1/6 or so) and another nice thing that is built in is a thermostat.