Question for Jdub...

[Kai]

At least, i think its you

I'm getting oils again, and i seem to remember being recommended 0w30 or 5w30 for my engine. 0w30 is uber expensive, and not very easy to find, but i have found some 5w30.

There is a slight worry though, its Havoline (Texaco) oil, but specifically branded for use in Jaguar's (big Jag Logo on the bottle). I realise it may sound a little odd, but would this be safe for use in a Toyota? I dont know if theres some specific additive in it for Jag Engines or the like, but it does give this info:

Jaguar High Efficiency Engine Oil meets or exceeds manufacturer’s warranty requirements for cars, vans and LCVs with gasoline, diesel or LPG engines (with or without turbo) where a 5w-30 motor oil with the following specifications is recommended:

ACEA: A1-98; ACEA: B1-98
API: SJ/EC
ILSAC GF-2
SAE 5W-30

Seeing as this is for after a rebuild, would it be better to run some sort of mineral oil for the first 500 miles, before switching to synthetic?

 

[MKIIINA]

that oil should be fine for your needs. jaguar just endorses the oil just like porsche and some other car companies endorse mobil 1.

 

[Kai]

I think that might be the case, i'm just making doubly sure before i spend out on oil i might not be able to use.

TSRM says to use API grade SF or SF/CC, and that oil is SJ/EC :S

 

[jdub]

I'm am not too familiar with that oil...looking at the specs you posted, it is a little out-of-date. The current API spec is SL/SM, ILSAC GF-3/GF-4 and ACEA A3/B4 & A5/B5. That does not mean it's not good...it far exceeds the SG/SF spec the Supra manual calls for. The spec sheet I found is for Havoline Energy 5W-30
(Previously Havoline Formula3 Energy 5W-30) used in the UK:
http://www.havoline.com/images/products/pdfs/europe/energy_5W_30.pdf

It looks like a good conventional oil...the cold viscosity is very good and viscosity at ops temp is on par with most 30W multi-grades out there. It should perform well for you.

You want to break-in with a straight 30W oil...Valvoline is a good break-in oil.

Two schools of thought on break-in:
1) Run the car for a short period to flush. Then run it through several short, hard runs above 4000 rpm...this seats the rings. Change the oil again, and run normally for another 1500 miles or so. Change the oil...use a synthetic if you wish.

2) Run the car for a short period to flush. Change the oil, run for 1500 miles or so driving normally...you don't have to or want to baby it. Change the oil...use a synthetic if you wish.

Is Pennzoil Platinum available in the UK? This would be a much better choice

 

[Kai]

No Pennzoil stuff available at all in this country. Very, very hard to find single weight oil as well, i found 20w, but it was for a diesel tractor :/

No valvoline oil either - unless you want to run a 2stroke strimmer!

If i bought 3x5 litre bottles of that Jag branded oil, would that suffice for initial break in, 1500mile drive and then the final change for the next 5000 miles or so?

I'm also planning on running 'overfilled' - ie, about 2mm above the 'MAX' mark on the dipstick as i dont want to get caught short!

 

[jdub]

Like I said...you want to use a straight 30W for break-in. Look for a API SJ, SL, or SM oil. I'm pretty sure Castrol sells a straight 30W in the UK.

The Havoline oil will be fine after break-in.

I keep my oil a quart "over full" as well...good insurance IMO.

 

[Kai]

Will have another look for single weight, but it'll be damned expensive for 20 miles of use

change filter after the mineral stuff too?

And how much in litres constitutes a 'quart'?

 

[89Turbo]

a litre is .947 of a quart

 

[Kai]

Aaah so near enough makes no difference