Question for all you stereo guys out there

[Dan_Gyoba]

2 Farads of capacitance will supply a modest amplifier with voltage for a few miliseconds, but that's not what they're for. They are there to counteract the parasitic losses on a long wire. Since the amplifier's current draw is not uniform, there is a slight delay between the amplifier drawing current, and the wire supplying it. Conversely, when the amplifier doesn't need it any more, there is a similar delay before the wire will stop trying to deliver it. Heavier gauge wire has less of this effect, but it's always present.

The capacitor supplies a buffer of voltage at the amplifier, and then absorbs the excess when the amplifier "load dumps" and doesn't require the voltage anymore. This results in more predictable music reproduction within the amplifier itself, meaning better sound. All amplifiers will already have capacitors in their power supplies already, most of them will have enough on-board that an external one in addition will make no noticeable difference.

This does NOTHING AT ALL for the rest of the car's electrical system, except to maintain a residual charge for a while longer when you disconnect the battery. I will use a cap when the main wire run is longer than about 12' as a rule of thumb, but I've done several excellent systems with no capacitor at all.

 

[Greek]

Everything is stock except the head unit in my car and lights have a very slight flicker to them when bass tones play. Albeit Dubstep tends to have large levels of it, but it's not like I'm cranking the bass on the stock speakers. The volume is only at an audible level.

 

[suprarx7nut]

2 Farads of capacitance will supply a modest amplifier with voltage for a few miliseconds, but that's not what they're for. They are there to counteract the parasitic losses on a long wire. Since the amplifier's current draw is not uniform, there is a slight delay between the amplifier drawing current, and the wire supplying it. Conversely, when the amplifier doesn't need it any more, there is a similar delay before the wire will stop trying to deliver it. Heavier gauge wire has less of this effect, but it's always present.

The capacitor supplies a buffer of voltage at the amplifier, and then absorbs the excess when the amplifier "load dumps" and doesn't require the voltage anymore. This results in more predictable music reproduction within the amplifier itself, meaning better sound. All amplifiers will already have capacitors in their power supplies already, most of them will have enough on-board that an external one in addition will make no noticeable difference.

This does NOTHING AT ALL for the rest of the car's electrical system, except to maintain a residual charge for a while longer when you disconnect the battery. I will use a cap when the main wire run is longer than about 12' as a rule of thumb, but I've done several excellent systems with no capacitor at all.

Ah, good to know. Upon some quick research, it seems I've greatly overestimated the holding capacity of the audio capacitors.

Thanks for the info Dan!

I need to upgrade my wiring regardless when I do my harness this winter, looks like I can add this to my list of to-dos.

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[Dan_Gyoba]

@Greek: that's because the #1 integration relay (Where the marker and dash lights draw their power from) is electrically close to where the stereo constant power comes from, so they suffer from the voltage drop caused by the aftermarket deck's high demand. You can run a better constant power wire to the deck harness and it will resolve this.

 

[elisamuel467]

or upgrade the big 3.and bigger gauge wire,upgrade the battery.
or the ecomic way buy a capacitor

 

[airhead04]

Step one.....get the idea of a capacitor out of your mind
Step two.....upgrade the big three
step three...use QUALITY wiring/parts for it all
step four.....tune the system correctly
step five......enjoy your music.

 

[barkz]

or upgrade the big 3.and bigger gauge wire,upgrade the battery.
or the ecomic way buy a capacitor

you dont read too well huh? lol

 

[Greek]

Honestly it doesn't matter to me. I can barely hear my music anyway, and I don't need any bumpin' bass to impress any ladies.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Step one.....get the idea of a capacitor out of your mind
Step two.....upgrade the big three
step three...use QUALITY wiring/parts for it all
step four.....tune the system correctly
step five......enjoy your music.

Agree.

Honestly it doesn't matter to me. I can barely hear my music anyway, and I don't need any bumpin' bass to impress any ladies.

I listen to loud music for my own enjoyment and no other reason. Not overpowering bass, just balanced loud clear sound. People forget to amp your mids and highs and that IMO is one of the most important steps for better sound.

 

[Greek]

Sometimes I do wish I had good crisp audio.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

A cap is still a valid component, and does solve a problem, just not the one that most people THINK that it solves.

I'm all for good, clean sound. That's the way that I build stuff for me to listen to. I have a cap in my car because it PROPERLY addressed a problem which I was having. I could also have resolved it if I wanted to move my amps to under the seats, or run a 0AWG ground cable to the amp rack, but the capacitor was cheaper and perfectly adequate.

Oh yeah. It's important to note that Quality parts does not have to mean expensive parts, particularly when it comes to stuff like wire and interconnects. There's a massive amount of bull droppings in the audio world which seems to be purely designed to separate the gullible from their cash. (Much if it also in the department of these caps, too.) If you don't know what losses to parasitic inductance SOUNDS like, then you don't need a cap.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

If you don't know what losses to parasitic inductance SOUNDS like, then you don't need a cap.

%99.99 of people on here.

 

[Grandavi]

Good info, just have to say.. I have had stock.. and I have had subs.. why anyone runs WITHOUT a sub.. is beyond me.. lol. Nothing to do with the thumping.. just if your even just barely an audiophile... the difference in the richness of sound dictates you should have one. I bought my car.. it had subs.. I was planning on selling them. Then I turned the stereo on. Not going back.

 

[MKIIISupraGuy]

Interesting topic...so I will add my input being a electronics major. Since about 3 years ago, all amps internal circuitry use a push-pull type amplification process. This has minimum 90 percent efficiency so delay is practically null. I would still add at least a 1 farad cap to a audio system though, but not to help the amp, its going to do its job regardless.

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[te72]

:opcorn::

Entertaining thread for sure. I'm with Grandavi on the sub thing, which is why I'm likely going with something like an 8-10" with sound quality at the top of the priority list. Just fills in the music nicely... still miss the setup I had in the 88.