Had the head resurfaced 20 thou, doing a complete rebuild bottom up and would like to achieve the smoothest finish possible on the block for a metal HG, what am i getting myself into? the block is pretty bad from the factory composite HG where the copper inserts sealed the water jackets. My biggest concern is if decking can be done and maxium amount before the pistons stroke goes above the HG area? Ive only cleaned the block with a med grit 3m cookie....any help would be much apprecieated...its kinda hard finding a good machine shop here in tampa so i was wondering if anyone out there had any information? thanks
Question: Decking the block on the 7mgte
- Thread starter jrwagner81
- Start date
suprarich;1096409 said:
The head was warpped pretty bad, the older gentleman that i bought the car from ran the engine untill it shut down, needless to say piston 3 detonated and im going to have rebuild the whole engine. Ive heard of such online compression caculators because the way things are looking rite now im guessing im going to have to deck the block 10 maybe 20 thou, punch the cylinders 20 to 30 over and the head being 20 thou ground down im just really worried about what kind of compression, or even if this is possible. The thickest head gasket that ive found is a 2mm by HKS and that puppy is 350.00...i just want the car to be done rite and run...i will post some pics of the block asap
search harder. 3mm by HKS. $200
http://shop.edoperformance.com/hks-...-toyota-supra-86592-thickness-3mm-p-5407.html
and you could also get a custom size cometic, get in touch with grimsta from zankoku performance... i was talkin with him for a little bit about it.
http://shop.edoperformance.com/hks-...-toyota-supra-86592-thickness-3mm-p-5407.html
and you could also get a custom size cometic, get in touch with grimsta from zankoku performance... i was talkin with him for a little bit about it.
Rennat;1097927 said:
Hey thanks Rennat i apprecieate that, im going to follow that up... Thanks again
just like to make things easier for others. i've searched and edo performance was priced right, and would actually sell it. there are some vendors on here, but i tried to contact them and i got NOTHING in return... so i spent my money else where. shipping was quick too since im in CA.
jrwagner81;1097925 said:
The reason I asked was; if the head is that warped, and then it is milled flat on the gasket surface, it will still be warped on the top accross the cam journals. Now when you go to install your straight cams into a bent housing, the cams will have terrible "run-out". To fix it you need a new head, or you need to have both cam housings aling honed to straighten them. Before milling the head you could have had the entire head straightend in a oven, but you can not now that one side hase been milled.
Like Rennat said, a hks 3mm hg is 200 to 220. It is a bead type, the three hundred some dollar one must be a hks stopper. It is the only gasket I know of that cost that much.
jrwagner81;1097925 said:
Here is the link for an "online compression calculator" if you need it.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/compcalc.html
jrwagner81;1096304 said:
Now your camshaft journals are not in plane or consistant. When you bolt the cams in, they are going to bind. Head should have been replaced.
Just a thought.
Rich
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Yep, if the head was warped, they should have clamped it down flat in an oven, and then milled it after it was "Straightened" out in the process.
Now your cams most likely will be "warped" when the head is installed on the block.. This can lead to some wear issues, and I've heard stories of broken cams as well...(They are not really designed to be flexed over a curve...)
Now your cams most likely will be "warped" when the head is installed on the block.. This can lead to some wear issues, and I've heard stories of broken cams as well...(They are not really designed to be flexed over a curve...)
The machine shop that i took the head to said that the head was to be straightened before any machine work was to be done, i really hope they were telling the truth. They also said that the head (being a virgin head) that it would be ok to take off the 20 thou...Jeeze you guys have me all worried i really dont want any mistakes with this build im going to kick myself if i dont get this head checked out by another machine shop now...
A little off that topic now that i just pooped myself, i was reading on the HKS "stopper" that it would be (the last HG you will ever have to buy) i guess meaning that installed properly with ARP head bolts it wouldent blow again??? Im just looking for a solid build and dependable engine without have to sell my kidney, and do this all over again...I apprecieate all your help so far from everyone...thankyou again
A little off that topic now that i just pooped myself, i was reading on the HKS "stopper" that it would be (the last HG you will ever have to buy) i guess meaning that installed properly with ARP head bolts it wouldent blow again??? Im just looking for a solid build and dependable engine without have to sell my kidney, and do this all over again...I apprecieate all your help so far from everyone...thankyou again