Question comparing our stock oil pres gauge vs aftermarket

phoenix6

Rockin' the blades
Aug 13, 2006
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I was just curious how inaccurate our stock gauges are compared to an aftermarket oil pressure gauge and if it was worth purchasing...

Today I was at Autozone and they have 2 selections I Was looking into... Faze and Autometer.

The Faze one is $39 and Autometer is $62.

I know the Prosport gauges if ordered need an extra fitting from another website thats like $8.

Anyways, my questions are:

Are the Faze gauges any good for the price?

Are the Autometers THAT much better for the price?

Do either one of those require any extra not included fittings like the prosports?

Should I just hold out for the prosport gauge?



Thanks guys!!
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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It's not that our gauges are inaccurate it's more a case of they're over damped so slow to react and people mistake this for inaccuracy.

They're actually very advanced for the time.
 

phoenix6

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So just keep stock? What Im expericing mostly is my gauges inability to go back to 4.3psi at idle, its gotta slowly make its way, more or less up or down its slow to get whereever its going, and between 20 and 40 is empty space, yeah I can pretty much go, Oh its at 30 or whatever, just bugs me
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
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That's the "over damped" thing I was talking about.

Personally I use the gauges more to note trends than to get an accurate xx psi figure.

You get to know the motor's personality in time and can tell by how the needle sits if it's normal or not.
 

phoenix6

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well, after initial startup, she sits around 30 or so, then 2k to 3k rpms, 45 - 50psi.. then after driving and heats up, 10psi for every 1000 rpms... good.... if I go to see my gf, thats 25 mins of driving highway, after 15 mins, 3500rpms, 25 - maybe 30psi.... I nkow I have an oil pan leak, and Im burning oil thru a valve seal. but is that enough to do that?

I was thinking possibly the gauge was slumping out from sitting at one point too long.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
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It's NOT the gauge.....

this is the personality thing I spoke of.

What grade Oil/brand/viscosity?

Are you running the horrid stock cooler?

How old is the filter and what brand?

Ambient temps?

Make sure the Oil is +1 qt at ALL times Nix....
 

phoenix6

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+1 qt? Ive been putting in straight up 10w30 5qts Mobil1, I just changed the oil 3 weeks ago.

using a cAsite filter, (its made by Wix)Which is also 3 weeks old.

Its n/a so no cooler BUT I was considering getting one for it, I didnt know how well Id benefit from this though.

Ambient temps? If you mean engine she sits at 190 I believe, Id need a more accurate gauge to tell you.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
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Yep always run an extra qt in a 7M this is even more important if you have any leaks...

Ambient temp = outside air temp

You could move up to a 10/40 perhaps

No cooler on an na is a problem if you're steady state ie: freeway driving as eventually everything heat soaks and you'll notice a slight pressure drop.

Aussie delivered NA's come with a cooler.
(Same shitty bypass design as the GTE's just different hardware)
 

phoenix6

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Ok so 6qts at all times in the car? I thought this was unsafe...but Got it, Ill do that tomorrow, and Ill start using 10w40 again, I was before but stopped.

Outside temp, well, heatwave right now, 95 - 102*.

Ok no cooler, shits are expensive anyways haha.



OH where can I get a replacement dipstick? mine always pops out at times.
 

phoenix6

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Aug 13, 2006
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IJ. said:
A proper cooler would be good ;)


Sorry I misread, I added some things to my post above if you could possibly answer any of those...

Also, what brand cooler should I get and how much should I expect to pay?
 

mkIIIman089

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The stocker is slow, but I watched it very closely this morning. I was at over 5kgcm for roughly 30 seconds this morning and the stocker just refused to go any higher then what I would estimate to be 37ish psi. So mine at least, is horribly inaccurate, or if its THAT slow, its useless anyway for any kind of reliable measurement.
 

phoenix6

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Thats kinda how I was thinking about it being slow but I do agree with how IJ uses time lapsed indication to just know. Id still like a little faster accuracy, I just wasnt sure if the Faze was any good.
 

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
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Colin: That's around the point where all the factory leaks open.....

Only time you'll see higher is when the pump speed is high enough to supply enough excess volume to overcome the leaks.
 

mkIIIman089

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IJ. said:
Colin: That's around the point where all the factory leaks open.....

Only time you'll see higher is when the pump speed is high enough to supply enough excess volume to overcome the leaks.
Yea, I can see exactly when they open even keeping the revs low when I first start to drive. I don't normally drive at a high enough RPM when its that cold to overcome the "leaks" and see it rise above 6kgcm.

My point was just that the stock gauge was not showing what the actual pressure was, at that point at least.

BTW, when I do finally get enough cash flow to do a full flow cooler, it will take a lot of research before I choose one. Remember, it becomes very critical once that component is full flow. Buying one off of ebay like that I would avoid at all costs.
 

mkIIIman089

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Ah, see thats a tiny bit different then my setup. ;)

At full operating temp I usually see like 1kgcm per 1k revs.