well usually aem uego's are good wbo2. Very few problems with them however it is a possibility you got a faulty component. I mean if you say you have a proper ground then ok I cant argue that and if you say you installed it correctly then I cant argue that either. But if its still not working then one has to figure it must be the actual gauge or sensor.
Question about wideband 02 sensor
- Thread starter teedoff00
- Start date
Yeah I know what you mean, thanks for all your help by the way. So did you have any idea about what is up with my freakin 12v relay mod? Or any others for that matter, already fried the first walbro that came my donor vehicle (did 7mgte swap) and I am guessing it was just starved for power which caused it early demise, so yeah, dont want to blow another 100 bucks on another one any time soon.
Thanks guys!
Thanks guys!
Your very welcome I know what it feels like to not know what is wrong at times. But you learn as you go on and the best way is to try. Now as far as the relay. Did you take a electrical tester to it? If so did it check out? Usually the way to find out what is bad electrically is do that because the tester will tell you whethor or not a certain component has power or not. It is possible that the relay is bad but first do the test please and let me know what happens.
I also did the same thing for the wbo2 when I had problems with my friends and we found out it wasnt a good ground. So just passing you my experiences. Keep us posted.
I also did the same thing for the wbo2 when I had problems with my friends and we found out it wasnt a good ground. So just passing you my experiences. Keep us posted.
OK, I will stick my voltameter to it and see what I come up with, I will also check the ground on the wideband and make sure it is solid. I tried the relay (bought from napa) the first time and couldnt figure out which wires to connect where, then I took that one back and got a new one that had the diagram etched on the relay, hooked it up correctly but like I said, I crank it and it blows the efi fuse, which I would think means faulty wiring somewhere. The funny thing is during this process it did something to my running/tail lights and interior lights, when ever I turn them on it blows that fuse as well. So the car runs when the 12v mod relay isnt attached and it is hooked up normally, but now I am having light issues!! Which I still havent figured out...
Once again, thanks alot
Once again, thanks alot
Ok, so I got an update...
My wideband seems to be acting alright. It still doesn't register at an idle, and at wot it goes all the way to 10:1, probably way to rich. I tried turning down the fuel pressure down to 28 or so with the vacuum connected, but it started idling really bad. So i guess I will have to try to re-time it. (I ordered KS connectors to do the Knock Sensor rewire, because I think it is screwing with my timing...This will be the third time I have re-timed it this week!) And about my relay for the 12v Mod. I tested the relay (napa one) and it was good, clicked on just fine and had power to the accessory. So I guess the problem lies either on the line that originally feeds the pump, that now energizes the coil, or with removal or correct wiring of the fuel pump resistor and relay in the engine bay. Any ideas?
Much appriciated!!
My wideband seems to be acting alright. It still doesn't register at an idle, and at wot it goes all the way to 10:1, probably way to rich. I tried turning down the fuel pressure down to 28 or so with the vacuum connected, but it started idling really bad. So i guess I will have to try to re-time it. (I ordered KS connectors to do the Knock Sensor rewire, because I think it is screwing with my timing...This will be the third time I have re-timed it this week!) And about my relay for the 12v Mod. I tested the relay (napa one) and it was good, clicked on just fine and had power to the accessory. So I guess the problem lies either on the line that originally feeds the pump, that now energizes the coil, or with removal or correct wiring of the fuel pump resistor and relay in the engine bay. Any ideas?
Much appriciated!!
I seriosuly advise you getting a data logger of some sort. Because when you mess with timing and you have no idea what your running(due to the sketchy wbo2) I would not jimmy or guess on the timing. Its no problem running rich but it is when you are too lean. If you are running too rich that just means you wont get as much hp. Now I would really like to see what and if you are actually advancing in timing or if you are pulling timing. That would give us a baseline to work off of.
And to the 12v did you finish checking with the voltmeter each line? If the relay registers then its another component. Please tell me you at least checked everything out and not just the relay? I know its something in there thats causing that to happen.
And to the 12v did you finish checking with the voltmeter each line? If the relay registers then its another component. Please tell me you at least checked everything out and not just the relay? I know its something in there thats causing that to happen.
yeah, I know what you mean. This morning the gauge seems to be registering better, about 15 at cruse and pretty rich under wot. I really wanna go maft-pro and probably will once summer starts and I have a little more cash.
As to the relay, I checked my source line (from battery) it registered 12V. So I then just hooked up the relay and left out the factory B+ and wire running into the fuel pump. I hooked a line from my dist. block (for amplifiers) to the B+ on the relay to energize the coil, hooked up the ground where it previously was. And I was getting 12v on both accessory channels (where fuel pump would go). So I am pretty sure the relay and wiring are good to go. The problem is once I actually crank the motor over, the efi fuse will blow. I have tried this will the fuel pump resistor/relay (in engine bay) installed and also removed with the wires spliced together. Both ways yield the same results, blown efi! So I don't really know why its happening.
What do you think?
Thanks
As to the relay, I checked my source line (from battery) it registered 12V. So I then just hooked up the relay and left out the factory B+ and wire running into the fuel pump. I hooked a line from my dist. block (for amplifiers) to the B+ on the relay to energize the coil, hooked up the ground where it previously was. And I was getting 12v on both accessory channels (where fuel pump would go). So I am pretty sure the relay and wiring are good to go. The problem is once I actually crank the motor over, the efi fuse will blow. I have tried this will the fuel pump resistor/relay (in engine bay) installed and also removed with the wires spliced together. Both ways yield the same results, blown efi! So I don't really know why its happening.
What do you think?
Thanks
Ok I still would do a data log run to see whats going on before you mess with the timing.
Now you said you checked the fp relay correct? And thats the only relay you have been checking? Have you checked the EFI main relay?
Now you said you checked the fp relay correct? And thats the only relay you have been checking? Have you checked the EFI main relay?
Enough generalizations...time for specifics 
It looks like you are wanting to use an aftermarket relay to energize the fuel pump using power directly from the battery...is this correct?
If so, typically you use the stock fuel pump wiring to energize an aftermarket relay feeding battery power to the fuel pump.
The way you do this (using an '89 wiring diagram):
- Pull the stock fuel pump relay connector (it's round) and on the harness side, jumper the connectors with the yellow wire and the black w/ red stripe wire. I would use at least a 14 gauge jumper.
- The yellow wire is from the ECU, the black w/ red stripe wire is the one running to the rear of the car that powers the stock fuel pump...this black w/ red stripe wire is the one you will use to trigger the aftermarket relay. Attach it to the relay side that actuates...a chassis ground is fine here.
- Attach a battery power wire (10 gauge min) to the "power" side of the relay. Make sure this wire is fused between the relay and battery...30 amp should do it.
- Attach another wire from the other side of the relay (10 gauge min) to the fuel pump where the original black w/ red stripe wire was attached. Make sure you have a good ground on the other side...a neg lead to the battery here is not a bad idea.
What is going to happen when you start the car, the ECU is going to command the fuel pump to run as normal (using the yellow wire), but power is going to flow to the aftermarket relay instead. It will actuate the relay completing the circuit between your battery to the fuel pump.
You will no longer need the stock FP relay or the resistor.
And, you should not blow the EFI fuse any more
It looks like you are wanting to use an aftermarket relay to energize the fuel pump using power directly from the battery...is this correct?
If so, typically you use the stock fuel pump wiring to energize an aftermarket relay feeding battery power to the fuel pump.
The way you do this (using an '89 wiring diagram):
- Pull the stock fuel pump relay connector (it's round) and on the harness side, jumper the connectors with the yellow wire and the black w/ red stripe wire. I would use at least a 14 gauge jumper.
- The yellow wire is from the ECU, the black w/ red stripe wire is the one running to the rear of the car that powers the stock fuel pump...this black w/ red stripe wire is the one you will use to trigger the aftermarket relay. Attach it to the relay side that actuates...a chassis ground is fine here.
- Attach a battery power wire (10 gauge min) to the "power" side of the relay. Make sure this wire is fused between the relay and battery...30 amp should do it.
- Attach another wire from the other side of the relay (10 gauge min) to the fuel pump where the original black w/ red stripe wire was attached. Make sure you have a good ground on the other side...a neg lead to the battery here is not a bad idea.
What is going to happen when you start the car, the ECU is going to command the fuel pump to run as normal (using the yellow wire), but power is going to flow to the aftermarket relay instead. It will actuate the relay completing the circuit between your battery to the fuel pump.
You will no longer need the stock FP relay or the resistor.
And, you should not blow the EFI fuse any more
jdub;994400 said:Enough generalizations...time for specifics
It looks like you are wanting to use an aftermarket relay to energize the fuel pump using power directly from the battery...is this correct?
If so, typically you use the stock fuel pump wiring to energize an aftermarket relay feeding battery power to the fuel pump.
The way you do this (using an '89 wiring diagram):
- Pull the stock fuel pump relay connector (it's round) and on the harness side, jumper the connectors with the yellow wire and the black w/ red stripe wire. I would use at least a 14 gauge jumper.
- The yellow wire is from the ECU, the black w/ red stripe wire is the one running to the rear of the car that powers the stock fuel pump...this black w/ red stripe wire is the one you will use to trigger the aftermarket relay. Attach it to the relay side that actuates...a chassis ground is fine here.
- Attach a battery power wire (10 gauge min) to the "power" side of the relay. Make sure this wire is fused between the relay and battery...30 amp should do it.
- Attach another wire from the other side of the relay (10 gauge min) to the fuel pump where the original black w/ red stripe wire was attached. Make sure you have a good ground on the other side...a neg lead to the battery here is not a bad idea.
What is going to happen when you start the car, the ECU is going to command the fuel pump to run as normal (using the yellow wire), but power is going to flow to the aftermarket relay instead. It will actuate the relay completing the circuit between your battery to the fuel pump.
You will no longer need the stock FP relay or the resistor.
And, you should not blow the EFI fuse any more
Thats what I did, I followed the procedure correctly to my knowledge, however when the Fuel Pump Relay & Resistor are jumpered as you explained, and my new relay is hooked up/wired the way you explained it blows my EFI fuse. Is there something I should check. I am going to double check my jumper job, as I have already checked and recheck my New relay. Thanks alot for your imput.
You don't have to jumper the fuel pump resistor...just the 2 terminals on the harness side for the stock FP relay like I said. Make sure you jumper the harness side of the FP relay. All you are doing is connecting the ECU FP terminal to the wire that leads to the back of the car. Disconnect the resistor (no jumper) and remove it and the stock relay.
Check your wiring for the after market relay...if you have power from the battery on the same side as the wire from the front (black w/ red stripe). that is the cause for blowing the EFI fuse.
Check your wiring for the after market relay...if you have power from the battery on the same side as the wire from the front (black w/ red stripe). that is the cause for blowing the EFI fuse.