So im rebuilding my car and I was wondering if I need to get my computer sent off and tuned. Im only doin these aaftermarket parts - pistons, p&p the head, and maybe a bigger turbo. I have the stock manifold. and not ALOT of money to spend on a new turbo. What would you suggest that would be a direct bolt on and I will be on 10 psi
Question about the ecu
- Thread starter FatalStylez
- Start date
Piggyback = add on computer (like the MAFT Pro, SAFC, etc) to modify signals to the stock ECU. Allows some measure of control, but you will always be fighting the stock ECU "learned value" feature.
Standalone = TCCS replacement with an AEM, Motec, stinger, etc. Fully programmable with a laptop.
As Shaeff pointed out, you can't reprogram the stock TCCS.
Standalone = TCCS replacement with an AEM, Motec, stinger, etc. Fully programmable with a laptop.
As Shaeff pointed out, you can't reprogram the stock TCCS.
That depends on the stand alone. An AEM will plug into your stock wiring harness and work with *most* of your stock sensors and equipment.
On the other hand, you can also replace literally every sensor if you so choose. That's the beauty of a standalone, it's flexibility.
On the other hand, you can also replace literally every sensor if you so choose. That's the beauty of a standalone, it's flexibility.
If you stick with 10psi and a less than huge turbo, I dont see why a MAFTPro would not fill your needs. A standalone would be ideal, but it might not be necessary given your current set-up and technical know-how.
Since I'm far from an expert, I have a Q for the others that know more...
Assuming stock pistons and simply a better flowing head and a boost controller; would the OP be in danger using the stock ECU? I realize the stock ECU isn't ideal for anything beyond a stock car, but when is there a danger from strickly increasing boost?
Since I'm far from an expert, I have a Q for the others that know more...
Assuming stock pistons and simply a better flowing head and a boost controller; would the OP be in danger using the stock ECU? I realize the stock ECU isn't ideal for anything beyond a stock car, but when is there a danger from strickly increasing boost?
what about the greddy e manage ultimate? isn't that a piggy back?
and i got a HKS PFC F-CON with piggybackin HKS GCC, are those hard to tune?
and i got a HKS PFC F-CON with piggybackin HKS GCC, are those hard to tune?
my build is P&p head, Forged Pistons, and just replacing bearings.... But I want the GT45 turbo. What all Would I need to make the car run? Aftermarket Exhaust Manifold, bigger wastegate and what else.
fuel pump, oil line kit for the turbo "garrett type" and also you will need the ecu modification. a MAP ECU 2 is what i was going to use but ended up with a map ecu 1, the ecu 2 would be better because you can control the injectors also. that is the other thing, you will need bigger injectors. now if you run that turbo you might be able to get away with 550cc injectors but with very low boost and would be almost pointless if you ask me, that turbo is going to take a long time to spool also due to its size. if you look at my build i have basically set my car up to run that turbo at 25psi and maybe higher only downside being my rods are stock 
you also have to remember that the way to look at the difference between a big turbo vs a smaller turbo is the same as blowing air through a big straw "big turbo" vs a small straw "small turbo" there is a higher volume of air flowing out of the big turbo meaning you will need fuel to support the extra volume of air otherwise you will run into a lean condition and you can say bye bye motor. my case im running 780cc to 880cc injectors. A1000 fuel pump, -10 AN fuel line, dual feed high flow LIPP fuel rail, -6 return, aeromotive FPR. i also have modified the stock gas tank and added a sump to it. if you want power you need money. just replacing your pistons and getting a head port and polish isnt going to allow you to go faster. you need much much more. i recommend a simple setup, walbro 255lph "which i am selling btw " and a smaller close to stock turbo, maybe get a Gt35R "recommend master power turbo due to price" get a aeromotive FPR and a fuel management system. if you still have money get a wideband A/f ratio monitor so you can tune your car alot better
" and a smaller close to stock turbo, maybe get a Gt35R "recommend master power turbo due to price" get a aeromotive FPR and a fuel management system. if you still have money get a wideband A/f ratio monitor so you can tune your car alot better
Yes, those are piggyback units. Yes, the HKS alphabet soup is difficult to tune - not something that should be attempted by a home mechanic, anyway.Supradude7mgte;1295444 said:
You need a *LOT* more to run that turbo.FatalStylez;1295521 said:
- A complete fuel system upgrade - injectors, lines, pump, regulator, wiring...
- A new intercooler and hardpipes...
- Bigger exhaust, downpipe, manifold...
- New intake and air filter
- Complete refresh on the engine... new forged parts throughout.
- Something to tune with... at that level, I'd definitely head for a full standalone. It can probably be done with piggybacks, but you're already looking at $15-20k in parts/labor minimum, and the difference in cost going full standalone won't be significant.
We haven't even started to cover driveline parts. You'll need a new clutch if you're manual, if you're automatic you'll need a new transmission AND a clutch. Much better wheels and tires, because the stock tire size will just roast tires instead of going anywhere. You'll need better brakes... mostly new suspension pieces, except for a bunch of the bits in the rear that will need to be replaced with heavy duty aftermarket gear. New or freshly rebuilt rear pumpkin, too.
I've probably forgotten a crapload of stuff - hell, you'll spend thousands of $$$ in misc. little stuff, like new hoses, individual gaskets, oil, coolant, and cleaning supplies.
piggy backs have cracked 500whp in capable hands. I would have gone standalone if it wasnt for the intial dyno time/tune needed to get things moving smoothly... Thats coming and honestly i would invest in that over a bigger turbo.
Welcome to the money pit!!
You have no idea what you are getting yourself into. My car sucked me dry
Oh yea, piggy backs are ok to some point.
Standalones are better in every way. That 80's ECU don't like piggy backs.
You have no idea what you are getting yourself into. My car sucked me dry
Oh yea, piggy backs are ok to some point.
Standalones are better in every way. That 80's ECU don't like piggy backs.
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Boosted Supra;1296144 said:Welcome to the money pit!!
You have no idea what you are getting yourself into. My car sucked me dry
agreed.
im still strugglin...
and Good Looks GrimJack.
Would installing N/A Cams in the turbo motor affect the tune that was already done on the PFC-Fcon?
only difference is a bigger intercooler, all new seals, crank, bearings, piston rings, N/A Cams( only difference is less duration on the intake cam from 236* to 226*).
Any cam change is going to affect the tune...how much is the question. The stock NA intake cam is going to shift the power curve to the left in a turbo motor, at the expense of top end power.
grimreaper;1296128 said:
knowing what we know now. Why risk it? Anyway, if money is a concern. there are standalones that will cost LESS than a full HKS alphabet soup worth of equipment (meaning VPC, GCC, F-Con).