putting together a motor for DD..would this be ok?

[steveaw11]

Currently I have 2 GTE motors. 1 rod knocks BAD. the other has a bent rod on #1.

Ive found a JDM GE long block near me (never ran since bought..so they say).


I want to put my GTE pistons in it with new rings. And of course the normals, Cometic MHG and full seal kit.

I know it doesnt have oil squirters, but for a motor Im not planning to push much more than stock power from it should be ok I think.

Not sure what to do about the 1 knock sensor though, maybe will solder the other wires into the 1 senor (saw that worked for others in the NA/t faq).

I know I will have to swap over other bits like the coolant outlet i think, Intake manifold and valve covers, and a few more parts.

New Parts:
OEM ring kit
Cometic gasket kit and HG
random OEM gaskets (if the Cometic kit is not complete and/or some of the gaskets are not up to par)
OEM clutch kit.
OEM head bolts
OEM timing belt
Koyo TB tensioner (OEM brand but half the cost vs buying at dealer)
Replace bearings if needed.
Denso fuel pump kit (mine is dead)

+tune up parts.
(MSD wires, NGK plugs, Oil filter..you know)


So does anyone see any problems in doing it this way? I just need the car running, It doesnt have to last a long time maybe 30k (a few years) while I tear my MR2 apart for some long overdue work. I dont plan on beating on this car thats what my MR2 is for.

Please dont post "do a full rebuild spend $2000 plus.." This motor is not going to be my final platform, I need it to get me to and from work for a while, nothing more.

I would like opinions though if something is going to cause catastrophic failure in my plan.

This seems to be the cheapest route for a temporary motor vs buying a JDM GTE and doing the same as above.

Eventually the supra will get a motor upgrade to the 2jz, but do not want to do that right now since I have the MR2 im working on (getting an AE101 sc12 supercharger for my 20v )

Thank you all in advance.
--Steve

 

[lewis15498]

Have you considered buying a beater? Check out craigslist, theres alot out there for under 1000 b/c the price for scrap metal is so low right now.

 

[HitmansEVO]

Currently I have 2 GTE motors. 1 rod knocks BAD. the other has a bent rod on #1.

Can't you take parts from the two GTEs to make one good one?

 

[GrimJack]

Can't you take parts from the two GTEs to make one good one?

^This.

Why borrow more heartache from another block with unknown condition parts in it? Seems like you should have at least 6 good pistons and 6 good rods already, if you're planning on transplanting them into the NA block. So what do you need the NA block for, again?

 

[92TealSupra]

^This.

Why borrow more heartache from another block with unknown condition parts in it? Seems like you should have at least 6 good pistons and 6 good rods already, if you're planning on transplanting them into the NA block. So what do you need the NA block for, again?

That is exactly what I was thinking! I have two motors in my garage now, the last thing I want is three, and with only one engine stand it makes everything difficult.

I would interchange the parts, and make one good motor.

 

[grimreaper]

So you can just toss rods onto different cranks with no machine work?

one vendor on here does stock rebuilds for right around a grand, send him the blocks. JIS motors does bottom ends for $5-600 with a warranty. I dont see how you can make two bad = one good with out machine work which would make it a rebuild?

It doesnt have to last a long time maybe 30k (a few years)

 

[GrimJack]

He might be able to get away with it.

Should be pretty easy to tell once he has the crank out. He'll probably need new bearings too - but hell, he might be able to pick up $1 worth of plastigauge, then spend a bunch of time bolting stuff together and find a set that's within clearance.

The pistons are going to be a bitch to clean up... and it's possible that both his blocks have scores in the bores big enough that they'll need to be machined anyway.

Personally, I use mine as a DD, and I wouldn't go at it this way, but to each his own.

 

[steveaw11]

Im just very skeptical about using blocks with screwed up bottom ends.
The motor in the car now has about 230K miles (original motor) and knocks like hell.

The other GTE (I have no clue how you bend a rod) but its bent bad.. and before I bought all this as a package the previous owner had let that bent rod block sit out in the weather with just a bag over the top of it for 2 years...

So yeah, I do have at a bare minimum 6 good pistons, probably more, 6 good rods probably more. And as said theres probably alot of good bearings.. I just want to start with a good bottom end from the get go and not one that has circulated bits of failed bearing all through the thing for god knows how long.

Its a real possibility that I may need to get a new CT26 as well, but that was kind of a given when I started this, Im about sure with 230K the CT26 on it is probably on its last leg.

Pistons are an easy clean GrimJack, pure Techron in an ABS plastic container and let them sit in it about 24 hours, they will be spick & span when you take them out
I forget now who sells it, last time me and a friend used it was on some VFR 750 pistons out of a 93 model, made them beautiful overnight. I *think* it was a Yamaha branded almost pure techron cleaner.

But I may take the block and head and have them clean and deck them both real good for the Cometic, and possibly hone the cyl's for me if the cross hatching is not very visible. Which I may get lucky on that, just need to get this GE motor and tear it apart.

You guys are very knowledgable to this so I will ask...
The bad GTE blocks, would they be okay seriously with just getting one vatted, honed, and me trying to find a good crank from someone? Or would you let the shop turn the crank down and buy some clevite oversized bearings.

Im really trying to stay at or under $2000 for this WITH a rebuilt turbo from one of the vendors here. I look over the for sale forums and I see its hard to find a low mileage ct26 hence why i figured the best option for assurance was just a rebuilt one.

As far as my DD once this ones going I will have 2.

Ive even at one point entertained the idea of just putting the GE motor in the car and running it as is, maybe some gaskets, I realize the car would be a dog with the R154 and a GE but hey it would move on its own. Only thing stopping me is I dont know if a GE motor harness would even plug and play into the turbo's body harness. I would think no so I really havent put much more thought into it other than a random fleeting idea.

 

[figgie]

Im just very skeptical about using blocks with screwed up bottom ends..

Why?

Used blocks are the best blocks to use! Unless the bottom end spit out a rod through the side of the engine block.....

 

[steveaw11]

Why?

Used blocks are the best blocks to use! Unless the bottom end spit out a rod through the side of the engine block.....

Nah no spit out rods.

I think Im going to take your guys advice. Im going to tear down the bent rod motor and have it worked.

Machine shop quoted me these prices

Block and head milled for MHG (I made sure they can do the RA30 or less)
$145 for the block & $65 for the head.

Crank reworked to fit the smallest metric oversized bearings
$100

Hone cyl's
$8 per cylinder.

Forgot to ask about getting the block vatted and install new freeze plugs.

Now I know I need the timing cover bolted on it when it gets milled, but I read somewhere I need the TB tensioner also bolted on... whats the deal with that or is just havng the cover on good enough?

Anything else I will need to tell the machinist? or maybe check out?

Thanks,

--Steve

 

[GrimJack]

Get the block hand cleaned, that way you can likely avoid having to replace the oil pump driveshaft bearings, which are a PITA.

Just don't overtorque the TB tensioner when you're installing it, it can deform the #1 cylinder.

 

[grimreaper]

^ good advice and i would ask them if they have a tq pate for the 7m.

 

[GrimJack]

And if they don't, you can pick one up from Rich pretty cheap right now...

 

[steveaw11]

^ good advice and i would ask them if they have a tq pate for the 7m.

Why would I need the tq plate? I had thought that was for boring them out, not just a simple hone to give me some crosshatch.

 

[GrimJack]

Correct - you don't need it unless the cylinder bores are scored and it needs to be bored out.