i honestly don't think that's the problem i have moved them in every direction always the same result never anything different. and I'm getting code thirty one and i believe i have a fuel problem since its running really rich and i mean rich nut that could be because of the afm being bad. had the cams retarded up to like six degrees and in advanced about six degrees and reducing overlap by moving the exhaust cam like the degrees more advanced and the intake one degree retarded. it doesn't change anything except the way it drives. idle is alway's the same. if it was thirty degrees off crower should give you another set and when i installed them i made sure they were at tdc according to stock cams and they were not noticeably different. and the cams shouldnt be messing with my fuel ratio.
putting stock camshaft back in and taking out crowers read
- Thread starter supraking16
- Start date
Did you use a dial indicator and a degree wheel.. 6 degree's won't do shit if they are off 30 degree's or more..
Do you have a wideband or a narrowband(light show) gauge?
When the engine is warming up it is a lot richer than when at opt temps. 7m's run super rich stock.
You should also fix your codes. Are any of the wires broken leading up to the afm? What was the last thing you did? Did you take the head off?
When the engine is warming up it is a lot richer than when at opt temps. 7m's run super rich stock.
You should also fix your codes. Are any of the wires broken leading up to the afm? What was the last thing you did? Did you take the head off?
yes allways i allway check and reset the ignition timing
---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------
can someone give a list of detailed tools to degeree them and i will try my best to degree them and i have no idea how to read the timing card which isnt helpingme i know to take the crank pulley off to put a degree whel on is this correct on this motor
---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 PM ----------
ive also checked the ecu it was good and the afm seemed good but it was hard to really bench test bc the temps u go by are like way off what it is here and the wires seem good i checked that allready im pretty sure the afm is bad i sprayed maf cleaner on it i didnt know not to
---------- Post added at 07:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------
im using an aem wideband uego
---------- Post added at 07:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:44 PM ----------
can someone give a list of detailed tools to degeree them and i will try my best to degree them and i have no idea how to read the timing card which isnt helpingme i know to take the crank pulley off to put a degree whel on is this correct on this motor
---------- Post added at 07:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:50 PM ----------
ive also checked the ecu it was good and the afm seemed good but it was hard to really bench test bc the temps u go by are like way off what it is here and the wires seem good i checked that allready im pretty sure the afm is bad i sprayed maf cleaner on it i didnt know not to
---------- Post added at 07:54 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:52 PM ----------
im using an aem wideband uego
hvyman;1664690 said:
You put the wheel on the cam. Its only needed to make sure that the cams are what the card says they are. If they were 30* off i dont think the motor would run very good at any time. 1 tooth off stock can make it not even drive able.
You should fix your other problems first. Its hard to say if its your cams since your untuned and other problems your not worrying about. The cams could be part of the idle problem tho.
Avidfeo might help too.
You should fix your other problems first. Its hard to say if its your cams since your untuned and other problems your not worrying about. The cams could be part of the idle problem tho.
Avidfeo might help too.
Code 31 after ruining his AFM http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?136372-car-is-running-super-rich
Two different threads, same issue, I doubt the cams are the blame at this point...
Two different threads, same issue, I doubt the cams are the blame at this point...
ha thats my other thread lol i need to fix my afm problem but i cant figure out if i need to just go map ecu or stand alone or try finding stock afm
the car does run and it does idle just rough as hell and it is not consistent at all one moment its good and then it starts acting like its just messed up and then it will just stall or it will start surging a little like revving up and a down a little but its never the same and drives good but now I'm starting to notice it doesn't have any power if I'm on a hill it wont even go up it it just starts missing like its got the wrong fuel ratio which from what i have heard a bad afm doing. and but if you're going down the high way its fine just doesn't like any stress or it starts cracking up and it always stalls when i let off the gas or it will barely catch it self
well i checked it seemed fine but the check is stupid so i guess its bad do u know where to get one i found a reman one for one fifty and i thin the toyota one is like 800
Check for sale section and post in wtb. Lots of people have extras.
The only check that most people find in the tsrm is for air temp sensor and that is a different code.
The only check that most people find in the tsrm is for air temp sensor and that is a different code.
QWIKSTRIKE
475rwhp459torq an climbin
Nosechunks;1669807 said:
ROFL....what's good buddy....let's get together one day. I had to tune my cams with a vpc emanage when I first got them. You need to make sure the AFM is working then tune it. I never understand how you cry fowl before finding out what you need to do before taking on an endeavor.