Guys how do I determine what head gasket to use? According to my info given to me the deck has a 60 rough average. My research shows that to be good for a MHG? Which MHG do I go with? Seems like the best is the HKS Stopper? How do I chose the thickness?
~* Purchased a 1992 Turbo Black / Shadow Grey Hardtop *~ Pre Build Help WELCOMED!
- Thread starter suprapilot
- Start date
suprapilot;2073168 said:
Thank you!
Yes thats his car. His supra spent 2 years in Michigan before he purchased it and developed some rust in the wheels wells. He still debating on taking on the project of cutting out the rust or swapping cars. The hood was made by a guy in Dominican Republic. It's similar to the Stout hood without the extra side vents.
Fernando
To choose gasket size and preserve compression ratio you need the following pieces of information:
1) stock compressed gasket thickness (~1.4mm, someone please confirm)
2) amount of material removed from head surface (thickness)
3) amount of material removed from block surface (thickness)
Then you do the following:
new gasket thickness = 1(stock compressed gasket thickness) + 2(amount removed from head) + 3 (amount removed from block)
example: stock = 1.4, head removal = .15mm, deck removal = .15mm then new MHG should be 1.7mm
If you want to lower compression ratio, you increase the total amount of distance between head and block surface.
example: stock = 1.4, head removal = .15mm, deck removal = .15mm then new MHG should be 1.7mm, but you want to decrease compression so choosing something like a 2.0mm will lower.
You'll have to figure out how to calculate final compression ratio on your own though.
if anyone sees anything wrong please don't hesitate to chime in.
1) stock compressed gasket thickness (~1.4mm, someone please confirm)
2) amount of material removed from head surface (thickness)
3) amount of material removed from block surface (thickness)
Then you do the following:
new gasket thickness = 1(stock compressed gasket thickness) + 2(amount removed from head) + 3 (amount removed from block)
example: stock = 1.4, head removal = .15mm, deck removal = .15mm then new MHG should be 1.7mm
If you want to lower compression ratio, you increase the total amount of distance between head and block surface.
example: stock = 1.4, head removal = .15mm, deck removal = .15mm then new MHG should be 1.7mm, but you want to decrease compression so choosing something like a 2.0mm will lower.
You'll have to figure out how to calculate final compression ratio on your own though.
if anyone sees anything wrong please don't hesitate to chime in.
BigKO;2073192 said:
Yikes! Lol so my pistons are 8.9to1 which im fine with. If I use a thinner gasket it will go up even more? Not sure if that's bad or good with e85? The next issue is will the valves hit the piston with upgraded cams with more lift like the BC cams? Lastly what if I don't know how much is taken off lol??? I may be able to find out what Arron took off last BUT I know the HG was replaced before with the original owner? What if they resurfaced the head as well? Is there a way just to measure the block and head to see how much has been removed?
Here is a good thread on HG just found.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?97552-Head-Gasket-thickness-selection
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?97552-Head-Gasket-thickness-selection
Just be sure it is done right. Then your pictures with the radiator cap jacked up are the last. Nice find.
After meeting Arron from DM & FSR at the Supra meet. I was going to work with him on the build and the machine shops he recommends. His 1.2jz engine sounds by far the best I have ever seen! Engine bay was pure mintness!
Now just need to keep sell stuff and my other toys first!
Now just need to keep sell stuff and my other toys first!
Wow I'm glad I found this thread! What a prime example of an MKIII! This car is exactly what I'm looking for, which is why I'm Supraless ha. I was starting to think 92' hardtops didn't exist. Lucky you.
I didn't know black post 89's 5spd turbo hardtops were this sought after. Post 89' hardtops are rare already it seems, let alone black, and 92'!
Is your 800WHP goal, with the 7M?
Oh and I'm subscribing. Please keep updating!
I didn't know black post 89's 5spd turbo hardtops were this sought after. Post 89' hardtops are rare already it seems, let alone black, and 92'!
Is your 800WHP goal, with the 7M?
Oh and I'm subscribing. Please keep updating!
Supra28;2073828 said:
Hi thanks for the reply. Yes 7m to keep with the heritage! I can easily do 1jz built but I keep thinking about the 7m?
Check out these Euro Guys!!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmswAr-ufes
Yea hardtop are rare which took my 20 years to find my 2 cars lol.
I wish I knew how many of all the colors they made?
The next part I'm looking is the Sound Performance Mk3 specific catch can.
http://www.spracingonline.com/store/_SP_Catch_Can_Breather_System_for_MKIII_Supra/3970
Im also going to powder coat the original valve cover to it's original finish and have the TRD 3 red lines as well.
http://www.anthonybrospowdercoating.com/resources/7M-GTE 2.JPG
Im really trying to keep as much as the orignal stuff as I can but the intake manifold has to go for a forward unit to not have clearance issues with large piping and also heating of the piping.
I'm going to keep the coil covers and stock coils if possible.
HKS_TRD;2073843 said:
Thanks!
Yea I'm going to do the 2mm stopper. The only plus would be if I went to a 1.2mm I will get high compression. Since Im going to run e85 I see guys running very high compression and big boost?? Kind of thinking about it.
![IMG_4573[1].jpg](https://www.supramania.com/data/attachments/48/48903-7a9034b4936057cc0a6f8c4e1f9b6aa7.jpg "IMG_4573[1].jpg")
![IMG_4572[1].jpg](https://www.supramania.com/data/attachments/48/48904-dcb4680054f86ec51eab8695c0db098e.jpg "IMG_4572[1].jpg")
![IMG_4571[1].jpg](https://www.supramania.com/data/attachments/48/48905-00932cac1aceb2556c9361caa26dbe2d.jpg "IMG_4571[1].jpg")
Straight from Technico Racing of Australia.
http://technicoracing.com/cs/index.php?dispatch=products.view&product_id=293
"This auxiliary shaft needle bearing retention plate is an absolute must for high reving, high performance and turbo charged engines.
The factory retaining plate and shaft runs steel on steel with little or no lubrication resulting in a broken auxiliary shaft from excess friction and heat.
This retention plate is machined to precision tolerances and fitted with high quality Japanese made needle bearings which significantly reduces friction, allowing the engine to run smoother and easier at high RPM or under load.
The needle bearing runs on ground and hardened outer races to ensure wear free operation.
● Essential for High Performance Engines
● Less Friction
● High Quality Japanese Bearings
● Australian Made
● Precision Engineered Parts
You are buying an auxiliary shaft needle bearing retention plate and bearing comprising of the retention plate, needle roller bearing and two bearing races."
Beech Performance can also modify the plate with notches as well but this optioned with the bearing seems better.