Pulling engine - what to do, what not to do..

[ZoomZoomZoom]

I'm in the process of prepping my car to have the engine pulled. The seals are shot, I get a giant cloud of blue smoke when I start up. The turbo is shot, it has oil in it and too much play. I've been a member on here about 2 years and I have read too much information about rebuilding an engine. I just want to know what to focus on to get to my goal.

So here is my goal. My supra's purpose in life is to cruise the countryside in a quiet manner, with a little pep, and look good doing it. The car is an automatic, so I'm not going to push the tranny beyond its means because I don't plan to upgrade it. I think 300 - 350 hp would be nice. I have a 3" stainless tanabe exhaust on it, tranny cooler, and K&N intake. Everything else is pretty much stock. I am sending the turbo off to get rebuilt, I want to get the 57 trim. I know I will need to replace all gaskets, seals and hoses. But what else? I'm thinking about doing the oil filter relocation because I do the oil changes. What about the oil pump? Replace or rebuild? Should I upgrade the fuel injectors? If so, don't I have to change the AFM? What about the top end? Keep it all stock or do some minor upgrades? I know a boost controller is nice, but I may get that later. Right now I want to get it solid on the road and do more performance upgrades later when I have the $$. Especially those upgrades that can be done with the engine already in the car.

Any suggestions such as "while you have it pulled, do this.." or "check this.." would be appreciated!!

 

[nick88]

http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=423&highlight=engine+removal

In 49 easy (well easy after the first time) steps.

 

[GrimJack]

As for upgrades and such... for that kind of power level, you'll need:
- intake
- full exhaust from the turbo back
- something to control boost levels
- fuel upgrades - e.g. lexus AFM + 550cc injectors, better fuel pump, adjustable FPR, or some system that does the same thing
- A better intercooler and hardpipes can't hurt

Of course, you'll also need a bunch of regular maintenance - plan on replacing a lot of rubber hoses, vacuum lines, etc.

Inside the engine, I'd be sure to check the head for hardness, do the machinework your shop recommends, rebuilt the CPS, replace all the seals, replace the frost plugs, check the valve clearances and buy new shims to get into spec, put in a new oil pump and new oil squirters, new water pump, new timing belt and idler pulley.

 

[paradox616]

as grim jack said, speak to your machine shop. after they pull the block down they will be able to tell you exactly what NEEDS replacing and what you should replace.

They can usually inspect the oil pump to determine if it needs replacing. i bit the bullet and replaced all freeze plugs and all seals, along with pistons, all bearings etc. All the little things add up , $50 here $50 there. take your expected cost and double it at least.

i pulled my motor to do a head gasket and ended up with a full rebuild, pistons were scored, rings were worn, bearing had water run through them and weren't in the best condition. until you pull your motor apart and get it inspected you really don't know what exactly needs replacing

Some tips i've learnt
Pulling the motor out is easy, just be sure to get a catch can under the power steering pump because it can make a mess of a nice garage floor.
Drain the gearbox fluid first otherwise it will all leak out the extension housing when you tilt it to remove the motor and gearbox (not sure if the auto's have a drain plug?)
Pull the loom through the firewall, don't disconnect it from the engine, its alot easier this way!
Remove the radiator and engine fan before removing the engine to give yourself more room

 

[VooDoo]

Pull the loom through the firewall, don't disconnect it from the engine, its alot easier this way!
Remove the radiator and engine fan before removing the engine to give yourself more room

Very good info. otherwise you will spend alot of time trying to figure it out.

While you have the motor out. It really would be a good idea to go over your harness and check ALL connectors and wires. I would go ahead and invest in a MHG while your doing the rebuild. Pull motor and trans together. Take pictures. ALOT of close up pictures of everything. You have alot of vacuum lines and ground wires throughout. Don't bother upgrading the topend. Just make sure it is all in spec.

MOST IMPORTANTLY take it to a machine shop. A good reputable one. NOT "JIMBOS MODERS & STUF" . You will get what you pay for.

 

[ZoomZoomZoom]

Very good info. otherwise you will spend alot of time trying to figure it out.

While you have the motor out. It really would be a good idea to go over your harness and check ALL connectors and wires. I would go ahead and invest in a MHG while your doing the rebuild. Pull motor and trans together. Take pictures. ALOT of close up pictures of everything. You have alot of vacuum lines and ground wires throughout. Don't bother upgrading the topend. Just make sure it is all in spec.

MOST IMPORTANTLY take it to a machine shop. A good reputable one. NOT "JIMBOS MODERS & STUF" . You will get what you pay for.

I have enlisted the aid of someone who has rebuilt engines for a living, albeit domestics not imports.

He wants to pull the engine, NOT the tranny. I do have the "pull-your-engine-in-49-easy-steps" article, and it does show them pulling the engine and tranny. Greg doesn't see the need to pull the tranny with it. Keep in mind, he is the tool king and has done pit-crew work and done alot of rebuilds. He's looked at the Sup and doesn't think it will be big deal to pull just the engine. Thoughts?

I do have the ECU disconnected and have made arrangements to purchase two used wiring harnesses so I can replace connectors. I have already purchased a Stone gasket kit.

 

[GrimJack]

Pull them both. It's WAY easier. I've done it both ways, many times, and I'll never go back to pulling just the engine.

Be really careful with the clearances - this engine is a *lot* pickier about clearances than a domestic.

 

[MA70Snowman]

its just not worth it to pull it without the tranny. it doesn't seperate as easily as domestics. also re-installing the tranny OUT of the car will be a ton easier then doing it underneath the car. you can just remove the PS pump from the engine and lay it on the ground w/o disconnecting anything, same w/ the A/C.

 

[bfr1992t]

Just remember there is no need to open the a/c or power steering systems. The a/c compressor can usually be carefully balanced on the sway bar and crossmember before pulling the motor. Do the same with the ps pump and bungee/wire the resevoir up on the inner fender. Just be sure to keep an eye on both as you remove the engine and you will likely need a hand holding them out of the way as you lower the engine back in. Also be sure to remove the a/c comp and bracket as one piece.

Do pull the trans with the motor, for several reasons. If you leave it in you will have to support it and risk damaging the rear mount, shifter, and underbody if your support falls. You will be unable to move the car. The steps to separate the motor and trans are very difficult in the car, moreso than the steps to remove the trans with the motor.

 

[dbsupra90]

blue smoke on start up is usually just valve seals. did you want to just do a full rebuild anyway?

id also vote for a mhg while it is apart, if he is able to get a smooth enough finish for it. if not, i'd use a felpro gasket. i ran the felpro with a ct upgrade for several years. with either gasket, id also use arp head bolts.

i would also replace all those coolant hoses on the back side of the motor that are near impossible to get at with the motor in the car.

lastly, while you have it all apart i'd go ahead and get either the 7/16" exh manifold kit or atleast put in a helicoil kit.

 

[ZoomZoomZoom]

I'm thinking about relocating the oil filter after cursing it once again. And that leads to the question of upgrading the oil cooler. WAY too much info on this subject on here. I tried to read Jdub's sticky on upgrading and relocating the oil filter, but my brain turned to mush very quickly.. What should I do to properly cool the oil? Is stock ok for 300-350 hp?

 

[nick88]

Stock will due what it should for that range, you could just upgrade the cooler itself and be better off.

 

[ZoomZoomZoom]

I found this car on ebay with mods similar to the ones I want to do:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyo...iewItem&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&hash=item3eff345e47

He said its a low 12 second car with road-course handling. Hmm, I find this a bit hard to believe. Any opinions?