Proper ARP pre load procedure

[grimreaper]

What is the proper way to pre load the arp bolts/studs before the finale tq down? I spoke with arp 3 times and got 3 different answers. First chap said to tq them down and not worry about the pre load. Second one said to do 5 pre load cycles. 3rd said to do 3 pre load cycles. One said one bolt at a time, other said loosen all uniformly...

IJ- No offense, i just need more input to feel confident in my decision at this point.

Right now I am going to follow advice given and tq them down and do a simple re-tq after 5 heat cycles.
If i were to pre load the studs with moly lube, is this correct?
tq all studs down to 90% of arp spec'ed 85ftlb tq using tsrm sequence. Back all off using tsrm sequence 1/2 a turn (I was advised to avoid relieving total pressure on HG) tq all back to 76.5ftlbs. back off 1/2turn. tq all back to 76.5, etc. until final cycle and go to 85ftlbs.

How many cycles for used studs? does the use of a composite gasket affect final TQ value?

 

[IJ.]

Didn't I answer this already in another thread or a PM?

Someone changed something I just had a DejaVu

 

[Jeff Lange]

The instructions that came with my ARP hardware said to do 5 pre-load cycles. This is what I do.

Jeff

 

[IJ.]

His Studs are used Jeff so don't need to be "burnished"..

 

[grimreaper]

you did, with the widely accepted tq them down and do a re tq after 5 heat cycles. Its my understanding that pre loading the studs/bolts makes this unnecessary. I'll still check the tq after a few heat cycles, but if theres any advantage I can give the components on reassembly I'll take it.

What threw me off is that fact that arp gave different answers for the "burnishing" process or the pre load process. Back them all of uniformly per the tsrm or one at a time? How far do you back them off? My main concern is the HG being compressed and relieved.

 

[IJ.]

I do it the way I PM'd you and have done it this way pretty well forever with 0 issues....

The "burnishing" idea is to get a more consistent Tq setting and is 100% required for the bottom end as you can't easily do a retorque, but if you install the Main caps to get a bearing measurement then refit/remove/refit them to verify clearances with plastigauge you easily burnish in the threads.

For the Head I've done it both ways and a retorque is ALWAYS needed no matter what genius tells you otherwise, just witness the number of rebuilt/BHG's here if you don't believe me...

I don't suggest/recommend procedures if I'm not 100% sure they work.

Reused studs/nuts should be pretty damn close with just a single retorque, I pull them down in sequence to 40/60/80 then after the car has done 5 full heat cycles (1 cycle = full cold to operating temp and back to full cold) I then back crack a single nut in the tightening sequence, you'll hear/feel it crack so no more than 1/6>1/8th of a turn, you DON"T want to loosen the nut too much, I then pull it back to 85 ft/lbs and move onto the next one in the tightening sequence and repeat.

 

[grimreaper]

Hey i have to dig a little bit! To much "I do this, we do that, you should do this" info out there which makes a definate answer hard to come by.

 

[IwantMKIII]

IIRC I did 4 or 5 just to be safe

 

[IJ.]

Hey i have to dig a little bit! To much "I do this, we do that, you should do this" info out there which makes a definate answer hard to come by.

Guess it comes down to who you actually believe... some guy sitting in an office that's never actually seen a 7M, a bunch of forum Tards that shouldn't be working on a Briggs and Stratton or someone who has built multiple 500+ rwhp 7M's an no longer has a BHG issue, up to you...
(my last BHG was when the FFIM exploded and there aren't too many head gaskets that will cope with a 1000+ Psi overpressure on the Intake..)

IIRC I did 4 or 5 just to be safe

4>5 what?

 

[IwantMKIII]

cycles of course

 

[IJ.]

cycles of course

Ahhh gotya

(wasn't sure if you were talking about 4>5 Tight/Loose)

 

[91supran/a]

so what sould i do if i have used arp bolts going with a stock headgaskit and remand head? what sould i put on them for lube and where can i get it and tighten em down 40 60 80 then retorqe after 5 cycles to 85ft like u said IJ?

 

[--Golli]

After the first retorque after the first 5 heat cycles, do you do anymore?
How many times should I retorque the head after a full rebuild (with new studs and MHG) and at what intervals?

 

[grimreaper]

so what sould i do if i have used arp bolts going with a stock headgaskit and remand head? what sould i put on them for lube and where can i get it and tighten em down 40 60 80 then retorqe after 5 cycles to 85ft like u said IJ?

Napa sells an extreme pressure assembly lube with moly-graphite. This is what i used.
85 ft lbs came from arp. It would appear arp has changed their tq value yet again as that is what they told me to use for studs with lube.

 

[--Golli]

After the first retorque after the first 5 heat cycles, do you do anymore?
How many times should I retorque the head after a full rebuild (with new studs and MHG) and at what intervals?

Sorry, I know it might have been a thread hijack, but thought it would be useful in this thread for future searchs. Can anybody clear this up for me?

 

[IJ.]

so what sould i do if i have used arp bolts going with a stock headgaskit and remand head? what sould i put on them for lube and where can i get it and tighten em down 40 60 80 then retorqe after 5 cycles to 85ft like u said IJ?

I use plain old Castrol LMM grease

That's how I do my engines as I posted, I don't get the BHG .

After the first retorque after the first 5 heat cycles, do you do anymore?
How many times should I retorque the head after a full rebuild (with new studs and MHG) and at what intervals?

No

Once is usually enough for me.

 

[--Golli]

Cheers for that Ian.
I'll probably end up doing a last one when i switch to full synthetic, I'm paranoid that it's going to blow! (arn't we all?)