Project "so I have this widebody..."
- Thread starter Bleakvoid
- Start date
4U2QUIK;1665718 said:
I'll probably take you up on that; both passenger side front control arms are fucked, either broken, bent or twisted. I may need the entire subframe...but the drivers side is fine, minus the rim. I managed to destroy an entire set of 91/92 5-spokes with a curb.
Anyone have rear suspension parts laying around? Or know a place to get aftermarket links/arms? Drivers side rear is in almost the same condition, snapped the lower arm, and tweaked the upper pretty bad, too. I think both of my swaybars are mangled as well...
dubsupra209;1671265 said:
Still has a nice interior...I need to fill the door lock spaces and do something about the missing rear panel in the trunk and top of the hatch glass. Probably could use a shift and e-brake boot, too.
The thing right now, is that to get it moving I need new control arms, tie rods, a couple suspension links, plus rims and tires and possibly a steering rack :aigo:
4U2QUIK
1UZFE SWAP DUDE!!!
correctio
I have 2 full sets of subframes complete with control arms and hubs.
I want to keep one set, but the other is available. I'll make you a good deal.
I have 2 full sets of subframes complete with control arms and hubs.
I want to keep one set, but the other is available. I'll make you a good deal.
So, I got it jacked up today, and started taking pictures. More tomorrow.
Both sides of the rear...managed to ruin the lower control arm mount on the driver's side hub and break that toe (traction?) rod. Oh, and you can see the twisted end-link in the first photo, too.
Close-ups of the damage to the driver's rear shock, and of the upper control arm pivot on the subframe. I'm not sure if the left side is supposed to look like that, or if it's seriously damaged, or what...ideas?
Shots of the front end...busted the ball joint mount on the passenger side hub and scraped up the lower control arm and subframe. Also, I just barely clipped the oil drain plug, causing that oil leak you see in the fifth picture. Speaking of the fifth picture, just under the passenger side lower control arm mount and camber bolt, there's about a 1/4" crack in the subframe. I will absolutely weld that up, but the question is; how bad is that? I'll try to get another pic of it tomorrow.
And lastly...pinched exhaust. Going to be replacing the stock stuff eventually, as it's rusting up front and I need to in order to make power. Just another push in that direction, I guess.
Don't even get me started on the bodywork...I've gotta re-mount the rear quarter panel on one side (after I fix the underlying panel) and clean up the seam on the other side. I also get to take the door skin off of the driver's door, put a new door in, and graft the skin onto the new one. Not to mention putting my front bumper back together...
Wow, I have a lot to do. I hope I can make it to a meet this year :aigo:
Both sides of the rear...managed to ruin the lower control arm mount on the driver's side hub and break that toe (traction?) rod. Oh, and you can see the twisted end-link in the first photo, too.
Close-ups of the damage to the driver's rear shock, and of the upper control arm pivot on the subframe. I'm not sure if the left side is supposed to look like that, or if it's seriously damaged, or what...ideas?
Shots of the front end...busted the ball joint mount on the passenger side hub and scraped up the lower control arm and subframe. Also, I just barely clipped the oil drain plug, causing that oil leak you see in the fifth picture. Speaking of the fifth picture, just under the passenger side lower control arm mount and camber bolt, there's about a 1/4" crack in the subframe. I will absolutely weld that up, but the question is; how bad is that? I'll try to get another pic of it tomorrow.
And lastly...pinched exhaust. Going to be replacing the stock stuff eventually, as it's rusting up front and I need to in order to make power. Just another push in that direction, I guess.
Don't even get me started on the bodywork...I've gotta re-mount the rear quarter panel on one side (after I fix the underlying panel) and clean up the seam on the other side. I also get to take the door skin off of the driver's door, put a new door in, and graft the skin onto the new one. Not to mention putting my front bumper back together...
Wow, I have a lot to do. I hope I can make it to a meet this year :aigo:
With the amount of force that obviously went into both the front and rear sub frames during impact, I would be very cautious about taking this car any further. You have NO idea what those forces did to the remaining parts of both the sub frames, and the actual chassis. I would not consider that car safe to rebuild at that point unless you're planning to completely strip it, go over every single weld and bolt with a fine tooth comb, adn replace as necesary during reassembly. Not only from a structural point of view, but also the alignments of everything could have been compromised as a result of the accident. You should really take it to a chassis shop for them to do a thorough once-over. I'd say you're lucky to have gotten out without getting hurt, and sometimes, that is as much as any of us need to take away from an experience. Think long and hard before taking this any further...seriously.
SG in NE.
SG in NE.
Bleakvoid;1665856 said:
I was not expecting this ending to the story... I hope you can atleast recover the body kit to use on another chassis and make it look good. You may well be in a position to chase that MkIV dream anyway. Why did they smoke your license? What tickets did they load you with for that accident, if you don't mind me asking?
4U2QUIK;1665634 said:
Sorry, I just want to clarify what you mean by "posi", my interpretation of the accident was that the LSD caused both wheels to skid once the clutch was released, which is why the whole back end went wild, correct? An open diff would have allowed one wheel to skid and the other to spin freely.
Am I on the right track with this?
Anyway, good luck, let us know what you decide to do.
-Don
U could (just to be safe) measure the all the frames and the whole car, there´s a section in TSRM just for that with all specs.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BO&P=63
But probably you´ll notice when u switch the subframe and if the bolts dont line up.
Still, I´ve repaired worse cars than this, I´m buying a Audi A4 turbo -02 on Sunday that has the front and hood, lights and front frame smashed. Car is worth 120k and I get it for 1500
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?Section=BO&P=63
But probably you´ll notice when u switch the subframe and if the bolts dont line up.
Still, I´ve repaired worse cars than this, I´m buying a Audi A4 turbo -02 on Sunday that has the front and hood, lights and front frame smashed. Car is worth 120k and I get it for 1500
I had a friend come by with proper frame measuring tools...cleaned the hell out of the subframes, and everything's in spec, except for the metal panel that attaches to the header panel. Which is really thin, and can be bent back into shape pretty easily.
So, my shopping list looks like this:
-Driver's door & jamb
-Front left and rear right hubs
-Lower rear arm #1
-Rear strut rod
-Sway-bar endlinks (Energy)
-Ball joints (Moog K9521, 2x)
-Control arm bushings (Energy)
-Fiberglass supplies (resin, jelly resin, hardener, chopped mat, and woven cloth) - enough to shave the rear lights, fix the quarter panel, and glass the front bumper back together
So...it's turning out much better than expected. I did a great victory dance when the frame, bay, and subframes all checked out.
So, my shopping list looks like this:
-Driver's door & jamb
-Front left and rear right hubs
-Lower rear arm #1
-Rear strut rod
-Sway-bar endlinks (Energy)
-Ball joints (Moog K9521, 2x)
-Control arm bushings (Energy)
-Fiberglass supplies (resin, jelly resin, hardener, chopped mat, and woven cloth) - enough to shave the rear lights, fix the quarter panel, and glass the front bumper back together
So...it's turning out much better than expected. I did a great victory dance when the frame, bay, and subframes all checked out.
4U2QUIK
1UZFE SWAP DUDE!!!
Keros;1682377 said:
Just an infraction driving without insurance. They yanked my license a couple years ago, I found out, from a failure to appear that I never heard about...it's been taken care of, though. Just goes to show that if you want to drive fast, you've gotta keep the basics in check.
Bleakvoid;1671480 said:
4u2quik has my old subframes off my parts car he has all that you need!
Resurrection post! And some progress!
In the last couple months, I've:
*Replaced the damaged links. All of them. Too bad I'll need to take it all apart again to go polyurethane.
*Prepped my broken body pieces. This takes far longer than you'd think...but just like paint or any other bodywork, the prep work has an enormous effect on the finished product. I cut off the shredded fiberglass, ground the paint and body filler off ~4" on either side of any breaks, test fitted, then cut and sanded again. And again. Then rinsed and repeated. It really helps to have a gentle touch with an angle grinder; I use a metal cutoff wheel for everything because it works quickly, and sands resin and glass down to a workable finish that new resin/filler can stick to.
*Replaced my door. Swapped over the door pop solenoid, re-ran the power wire from the relay, and relocated the solenoid so I don't have to chop up the door handle trim again. The previous location put the pull cable inside the inside handle well, so I had notched the old one. New install is stealthy and looks stock. Also spent a 95* day or two aligning the thing...I hope I never have to do that again. These doors are retarded heavy. During this process, I also fixed something that was seriously bugging me...
*The old drivers door would bind on the front fender sometimes. The new one bound ALL the time, so I grabbed the dremel and a sanding drum and clearanced the fender by taking ~1/16" off the edge next to the door. Also took out the bad body supports and made new ones out of woven fiberglass cloth; it's a widebody thing. They keep tension on the panels by attaching to the chassis and the inside of a wide panel, usually the widest point or close to it, to prevent it from shaking at speed. I embedded a steel "T" piece in one end so I could weld it to the chassis, the other end is glassed to the inside of the panels. Which leads me to the panels themselves...
Pic from picking it up at the tow yard:
And then today, after round four of resin and filler:
Starting to look more like the car I fell in love with...so excited! And I'm starting a new job soon...pretty much, I've been underselling myself, and have gone back to telecommunications work to pay for more, better Supra parts. Let that be a lesson: my Supra kicked my ass back into gear after three years of bumming around with bullshit jobs. I needed that. :love:
In the last couple months, I've:
*Replaced the damaged links. All of them. Too bad I'll need to take it all apart again to go polyurethane.
*Prepped my broken body pieces. This takes far longer than you'd think...but just like paint or any other bodywork, the prep work has an enormous effect on the finished product. I cut off the shredded fiberglass, ground the paint and body filler off ~4" on either side of any breaks, test fitted, then cut and sanded again. And again. Then rinsed and repeated. It really helps to have a gentle touch with an angle grinder; I use a metal cutoff wheel for everything because it works quickly, and sands resin and glass down to a workable finish that new resin/filler can stick to.
*Replaced my door. Swapped over the door pop solenoid, re-ran the power wire from the relay, and relocated the solenoid so I don't have to chop up the door handle trim again. The previous location put the pull cable inside the inside handle well, so I had notched the old one. New install is stealthy and looks stock. Also spent a 95* day or two aligning the thing...I hope I never have to do that again. These doors are retarded heavy. During this process, I also fixed something that was seriously bugging me...
*The old drivers door would bind on the front fender sometimes. The new one bound ALL the time, so I grabbed the dremel and a sanding drum and clearanced the fender by taking ~1/16" off the edge next to the door. Also took out the bad body supports and made new ones out of woven fiberglass cloth; it's a widebody thing. They keep tension on the panels by attaching to the chassis and the inside of a wide panel, usually the widest point or close to it, to prevent it from shaking at speed. I embedded a steel "T" piece in one end so I could weld it to the chassis, the other end is glassed to the inside of the panels. Which leads me to the panels themselves...
Pic from picking it up at the tow yard:
And then today, after round four of resin and filler:
Starting to look more like the car I fell in love with...so excited! And I'm starting a new job soon...pretty much, I've been underselling myself, and have gone back to telecommunications work to pay for more, better Supra parts. Let that be a lesson: my Supra kicked my ass back into gear after three years of bumming around with bullshit jobs. I needed that. :love: