problem after problem... wtf

[b005t3d]

so, i finally got over all the turbo problems i was having. now, we have 2 more problems.
1. this is the easier of the 2. gauge cluster didnt work. so i swapped out the gauge clusters for a working one. now the oil pressure guage doesnt work. so, i bought a new oil sending unit and still no dice. so, any ideas or what?

2. this is the one that im most worried about. i go to get up on the highway, since its really the only time i have enough room to go through the gears like i stole the car, i can run all the way from 30 to 140 or so and put it in 5th gear to drop back to 60 or so and cruise and not build boost. its almost like you get one run out of her then she wont build boost. but if you ride at like 60mph in 5th for a while, she'll jump right back up and run fine untill you get over 4k rpm and over 10 psi. also, you cant hear the turbo spool up. its like a fluttering noise.

i have no idea if anyone will understand what i just typed about my problems but i cant figure out any other way to get it out on the internet. please help. the weather in tn will be nice soon and my baby needs to be running tip top. thanks, L8
boost

 

[b005t3d]

any one?

 

[Nick M]

Perhaps the fluttering noise is the bypass valve being overwhelmed. Especially since you said right after going hard, you cant go again. Maybe it is sticking open?

 

[supraman7mgte]

a fluttering sound does come from the bov. might be bad

 

[estrellainc]

I see ya need some help.
(First)
I probably wouldn’t be driving right now without help from VAST amount of info the members left for us in the forums. BIG UP! (-btw this is my first stab at online diagnostics- hope it helps)

(In proceeding...)
When in trouble like this, you got to go back to the basics. Start here-
1) Are ya getting any codes? Go ahead and check it again to be sure.

2) Are ya seein any black smoke in the mirrors during acceleration? Check n make sure the intake pipe connects are tight! Also check the bottom of the BOV hose n see if you see any of the metal hose in the base (by the accordion hose)- if so ya got to clamp it somehow.
A trick I’ve learned is that I spray a little WD40 at the source of a possible vacuum leak. With the engine running, the RPM will rise a little when the WD40 gets sucked in. Test it few times to make sure. Don’t forget, idling a 7mgte for a long time is not good.

3) Check BOV- (if the GF isn’t around, ya have to suck on the hose yourself). Try somehow to determine how much booossssstt the BOV will hold. (to make sure and r/o any compressor surge)

4) Your gonna have to test the OP meter gauge. When the wire from the OPS sees ground, the needle should skyrocket. (This makes me nervous, I don’t like to bury my meters for a long time- afraid they'll burn out). If the meter is pegged, then its poss. that the connection is somehow bad to the OP sensor.

5) May I suggest a wire connections check throughout the engine bay. Get rid of any corrosion/dirt/crud you find on all those connectors. Treat the ends, if poss. use something better than WD40 for corrosion inhibition. (WD40 attracts everything from lint on up, conducts a current, and the petroleum in it does ignite.)

That was long, and its what I can best determine, for now...
LMK what happens