Pressure plate exploded, clutch options?

[Fozbo]

Hey guys, it's been awhile since I've been on SM. Between the supra's pressure plate giving out, buying a tacoma, and interning 300 miles away from the supra for the summer, the supra has been put on the backburner. Now since it's well into summer, I'm starting to do some research about where to go clutch wise with the supra so that when I get back, I can get right into bringing it back to life (again, again, again...).

Long story short, the pressure plate strapping tore apart at the drag strip on my SPEC stage 3 clutch kit. I need to at least replace the pressure plate and I am fairly certain the actual clutch disc is fine (with around only 3-5k miles on it). I am wanting to go with a different brand when buying whatever I am going to get (heard the same thing happening with others' SPEC stage 3, also to just try something different). I also am looking at getting a lightweight flywheel at the same time since I will have the transmission off the car (for the third? time ).

I am looking for something that can handle around 400-450 hp (a little over 500 ft/lbs, seems that all the brands are similar in their "520 ft/lbs" range).

I have a few options, please let me know your input on them (especially if they physically wont work):

1. Cheap way: put my stock pressure plate back on with the SPEC 6 puck sprung disc.

2. Performance preferred: buy a new pressure plate only (like a south bend PP) and install it with the SPEC 6 puck sprung disc (I don't know for sure if this will mate up right or not, input needed).

3. Buy a whole new clutch kit from whichever manufacturer (most likely south bend or similar price/performance range).

4. ??

Mods include:

Engine
(rebuilt head and bottom end)

Wiseco pistons
Eagle rods
Clevite bearings
ARP hardware
Cometic metal head gasket + ARP studs
5 angle valve job
SS 3rd valve cover

Drivetrain

Rebuilt transmission
SPEC stage 3 clutch

Exhaust

Modified 321 SS tubular manifold
Full 3" turbo back piping
Dual tip Magnaflow muffler
50mm HKS type external wastegate (10 psi spring)

Induction

Turbonetics 62-1 turbo (.68 hotside)
Full 3" aluminum intercooler piping
Godspeed intercooler
GReddy Type-S BOV
K&N filter
MAF delete

Electronics

MAFT-Pro with Speed Density and Boost Control options
Innovative LC-1 Wideband and controller
GReddy turbo timer
TEMS 3rd bar lock in switch
20 psi Autometer gauge

Exterior

MKIV TT rims

Interior

Wheelskins cover

 

[90T04]

I am one of the people whose spec pressure plate came apart. I called spec on it and to buy just another pressure plate is close to the cost of the whole kit. Not that I would use another SPEC anyway.

I am planning on running this ACT clutch when I put mine back together:

http://www.a2motorsports.net/actts2hd.html

 

[gaboonviper85]

wait...a spec stage 3 pressure plate exploded???.........imaaaaaaaaaagine that!!

SPEC...built to explosive standerds!!!

Sorry dude...explosive clutches are what spec must take pride in...I'd look at ACT or start considering multi-disk.

 

[Fozbo]

wait...a spec stage 3 pressure plate exploded???.........imaaaaaaaaaagine that!!

SPEC...built to explosive standerds!!!

Sorry dude...explosive clutches are what spec must take pride in...I'd look at ACT or start considering multi-disk.

Heh, yeah I found numerous cases of this after it happened . Live and learn I guess.

I don't think that a multi-disc is gonna be required for my current setup. Also, wasn't ACT the one that some people were talking about clamping forces being so high that it was causing crank walk, or was that controversial/hearsay/unproven?

I am one of the people whose spec pressure plate came apart. I called spec on it and to buy just another pressure plate is close to the cost of the whole kit. Not that I would use another SPEC anyway.

Yeah, I've noticed that the price of a new pressure plate is close to the price of a whole kit from most manufacturers. I'm wondering if I would be better off just buying a whole new kit and just keeping the SPEC disc around for backup.

 

[gaboonviper85]

The spec has the same potential to cause crank walk...the real safe way to hold 400hp+ is with a multi-disk...but they are so damn expensive!

Or you could stop drag raceing...those straps just can't take the abuse of clutch dumps.....they should double up the straps or something cause clutches are too damn expensive to go threw like candy!

 

[Rennat]

how come spec isnt doing anything about this? is it only happening in the MK3 community? or do MK4's have the same problem?

its scary as hell to me, just knowing a company willingly makes a product like this... makes me glad i never liked spec clutches...

and i would talk to CK about clutch options, he should be able to steer you in the right direction for your setup.

 

[Krister]

So it looks like the pressure plate issue isnt just Spec Stage 5. Here's a thread I made about two Stage 5 clutches exploded:
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=74503

 

[annoyingrob]

You could always go with an RPS. They're a similar design, but I haven't heard of them exploding (only crank walking )

 

[Poodles]

Except that fact that RPS takes your money, gives you a shit product, and when it breaks they are nowhere to be found.

Go multiplate as it will be cheaper in the long run than replacing the bellhousing, clutch, maybe having your legs reattached after it comes loose again...

 

[Fozbo]

The spec has the same potential to cause crank walk...the real safe way to hold 400hp+ is with a multi-disk...but they are so damn expensive!

Or you could stop drag raceing...those straps just can't take the abuse of clutch dumps.....they should double up the straps or something cause clutches are too damn expensive to go threw like candy!

Yeah, that was actually the 3rd run of the first visit to the drag strip since the engine had been rebuilt and most of the mods done (including the clutch). Also, I missed third and I heard/felt it give out when I did get back into third (gas > disengage > gas > engage > gas > pop). I know drag racing is hard on it, but I am only on 10 psi and probably around high 200's at the wheels (certainly nowhere near the 520 ft/lb limit given).

And yes, the multidiscs are very expensive (and I'm finishing up college ).

 

[Poodles]

10PSI on that turbo has GOT to be well over 200...

Even then, it shouldn't blow up like that. Multiplate is still your best bet as you're not even pushing it at 10PSI on that turbo...

 

[7Mboost]

When I bought my car with almost the exact same setup (built, 62-1, AEM) as you the guy had 2 different clutches in his car, and he took it to a shop in SFL and they recommended him an ACT 6 puck stage 3 which I still have in it, they said whatever previous clutches he put in were too strong and I'm guessing if they recommended him this clutch it is probably a good decision.

 

[Fozbo]

10PSI on that turbo has GOT to be well over 200...

Even then, it shouldn't blow up like that. Multiplate is still your best bet as you're not even pushing it at 10PSI on that turbo...

Yeah, 10 psi is my daily pressure and is what the wastegate is set to. And now that I think about it, it is probably around the range of a brand new mustang GT, maybe a little more (I raced a guy before I had the maft-pro and I would walk up on him and then fall back at 4500 rpm due to boost cut through every gear). I'm planning to upping it to around 12-15 for daily / spirited driving and 18 ish for when I really want to drive. I just have to get the proper fuel mods (I haven't had the time to figure out how far the stock fuel system will go, which will be easy/safe due to having the wideband and all the goodies with the MAFT-Pro).

 

[lintlars]

Im currently running this http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/par...ch_Kits/Feramic_6_puck_-_Supra_MK3_Turbo/5170
I had issues with welding the full face version so I switched to the 6 puck version Im running 18 PSI on my GT35R on high boost for regular street driving im detuned to 12 PSI its been in the car for 3 years Im also running the OEM flywheel so the engagment is very streetable. Oh and Im using the ACT HD PP Option
For the price and the holding power I would buy this clutch again if I had to.

 

[Tun_x]

clutch masters.........

 

[albert74]

God this thread is making me a little bit nervous to use my spec stage 3. I'm looking to make low 500's on my 1jzgte setup. Will never see the track and will rarely see clutch dumps unless i'm showing off lol. Hope it doesn't give up on me till i'm ready to go multiplate.

 

[Ckanderson]

how come spec isnt doing anything about this? is it only happening in the MK3 community? or do MK4's have the same problem?

its scary as hell to me, just knowing a company willingly makes a product like this... makes me glad i never liked spec clutches...

and i would talk to CK about clutch options, he should be able to steer you in the right direction for your setup.

:naughty:

 

[Fozbo]

So I am starting to lean more towards the stock PP, SPEC 6 puck sprung disc (what is on there now, minus the PP), and fidanza flywheel combo. I'll most likely be in the 300-400 hp range for a while, so the PP should hold with maybe a few slips here and there when I'm higher in the hp range. I know that I will eventually want a lightweight flywheel and it wont cost me anything to use the stock PP. I've taken apart the engine/transmission so many times (and I have a different daily driver) that it wouldn't bother me to do it again later on to replace the PP and/or clutch. Also, next to just changing out the pressure plate with the stocker, getting the flywheel on top of it will be the cheapest combo of anything.

Anyone had any experience with this setup?

 

[hottscennessey]

multidisc /thread

 

[Poodles]

As per-usual, the cheap side of MKIII owners is showing...

Spending $10K on a fully built engine only to never get the power to the ground, or using a clutch that gives you crankwalk and destroys your investment is a foolish move.