Oh, oh....he's got the filter bug 
. Smart move as auto trannys are one of the most neglected systems on a car and yet one of the most expensive to repair.
The Magnafine would be the quick way out and they last a long time if you start with clean fluid. I'd recommend starting with a fluid change no matter what you do. Syn if you can swing it. The problem is to flush a tranny completely requires more than dropping the pan.
You can add a full flow spin on or a bypass in either the line going to the cooler or the return. If you're adding a supplemental air/oil cooler put the filter in the line going to the cooler to protect it. If you're sticking with just the radiator cooler either return or supply line will do. If using a bypass you'll need to dump it back into the pan or some other zero pressur elace like the dipstick tube. You can also pick the pressure feed for a bypass off the tranny's oil pressure test port.
Sticking only with spin ons, just get a Permacool or similair filter mount and find a place to put it. Be sure to use a spin on that'll handle the maybe higher pressure in the tranny lines. Or do as I said and go with a hydraulic filter from a place like Northern Tool. Hydraulic filters have great filtration combined with high flow.
Lots of ways to skin this cat. You can also put a sandwich adapter on the full flow spin on mount and then run lines to a bypass filter, either spin on or a TP type. That way you get bypass filtration without having to tap the tranny pan. You'll end up with two filters though and space may become an issue. No matter what you do change the filter at about 500 miles the first time. After that the fluid will remain so clean you can go 25-40K miles or more on it.
Probably the easist way is to buy a Permacool tranny filter kit from Summit for around $70. That price gets you a complete kit, with a tranny fluid temp gage and sender that goes in the filter mount. Without the gage it'll be lots cheaper. Check the bypass filter section of BITOG for other ideas.
. Smart move as auto trannys are one of the most neglected systems on a car and yet one of the most expensive to repair.The Magnafine would be the quick way out and they last a long time if you start with clean fluid. I'd recommend starting with a fluid change no matter what you do. Syn if you can swing it. The problem is to flush a tranny completely requires more than dropping the pan.
You can add a full flow spin on or a bypass in either the line going to the cooler or the return. If you're adding a supplemental air/oil cooler put the filter in the line going to the cooler to protect it. If you're sticking with just the radiator cooler either return or supply line will do. If using a bypass you'll need to dump it back into the pan or some other zero pressur elace like the dipstick tube. You can also pick the pressure feed for a bypass off the tranny's oil pressure test port.
Sticking only with spin ons, just get a Permacool or similair filter mount and find a place to put it. Be sure to use a spin on that'll handle the maybe higher pressure in the tranny lines. Or do as I said and go with a hydraulic filter from a place like Northern Tool. Hydraulic filters have great filtration combined with high flow.
Lots of ways to skin this cat. You can also put a sandwich adapter on the full flow spin on mount and then run lines to a bypass filter, either spin on or a TP type. That way you get bypass filtration without having to tap the tranny pan. You'll end up with two filters though and space may become an issue. No matter what you do change the filter at about 500 miles the first time. After that the fluid will remain so clean you can go 25-40K miles or more on it.
Probably the easist way is to buy a Permacool tranny filter kit from Summit for around $70. That price gets you a complete kit, with a tranny fluid temp gage and sender that goes in the filter mount. Without the gage it'll be lots cheaper. Check the bypass filter section of BITOG for other ideas.
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