ORIGINALLY POSTED in another forum of crispresidence... but since you ASKED!!! heh heh heh...
Well, we are tired of going up and down into the cave-of-a-basement to do laundry all the time! Four kids, a dungeon for a laundry room, ANCIENT equipment that SUCKS, and a DELAY on our home addition (WITH NEW LAUNDRY ROOM ON FIRST FLOOR!) has come to a "head" lately... so I spring for some new STACKABLE front load washer/dryer units, and managed to SQUEEZE them into an upstairs bathroom. I started the ALL NEW plumbing and electrical this past weekend, and HOPE to be fully operational THIS weekend!
NOTE: MY HOUSE IS OLD! Built in 1950, (not THAT old... but OLD ENOUGH!), the house is SOLID but old construction, so I have NO square/plumb walls anywhere, FULL dimension lumber that is ROCK hard, BLACK CAST IRON drain plumbing (that needed CUT with a DIAMOND SAW... after ruining several other blade types...) and wallboard that is nearly an INCH thick (with that DAMN PLASTER shell over ROCK hard gypsum rock or whatever this stuff is...)
Anyway... here are some shots of the 2" drain and couple hot/cold feed lines that I ran for the washer unit. The VENTING and electrical for 220v and dryer outlet are yet to come...
^^^ I had to be really "tricky" with the drain line to keep it on a STEADY DOWN-GRADE SLOPE for the entire 30' of run, AND maneuver under, up inbetween joists, and around a 90 bend to clear for HEADROOM where the stairwell is in this corner. I think I did a bang-up job of these complex transitions, myself... :wink:
^^^ You can see how I tapped into this new 2" drain from my double sink in the bathroom HERE. (It WAS much narrower pipe, but I don't intend to EVER have a clog or poor drain-flow again! heh heh heh...)
^^^ Here is the "nexus" at the water-heater/septic OUT (ALL CAST IRON!) where I "tapped" into the line with a rubber 2"-1 1/2" rubber boot/coupling. Other than taking EIGHT FULL MINUTES with my weight on a sawsall with DIAMOND BLADE... and nearly being CRUSHED by the section of black-pipe (CAST IRON... must have weighed 30 lbs for a 4' section!) the job went fairly smoothly. Honestly, as "busy" as this area looks, it is FAR better than before I re-ran some of the primary drain lines from the tub I put in a couple years ago, to the new drain for the washer dryer project...
I had to cut through the hardwood flooring, THROUGH a 2x4 "sill-plate" INTO the wall above (which was RIGHT ABOVE the floor joist, and so I had to use 22.5* couplings x4 with a little SHIFT to off-set the line INTO the wall... hence the "show" through in the bathroom in the second pic at top of page... what a PAIN!)
I left a "clean-out" here, but it is SEALED, since I just needed a plug for potential future extension of my drain into the kitchen, which has 1 1/2" line that is poorly plumbed...
^^^ I even remembered the trap! You can see the carefully routed corner for clearance coming down the stairs... nearly DIED from inhalation of Oatey Primer and Cement... but the end result is really solid, and doesn't impair passage at all... (any more than it already was with the low joist coming downstairs... BONK!)
^^^ Had this ONE fitting giving me a real hassle when I wrapped the teflon tape and initially "snugged it up". Little did I know, it would "sweat" from the threads AFTER installed in the wall! DOH! NO WAY to readily "remove" and redo it, so I managed to get VICE-locks on the threaded shaft, MONKEY wrench it as TIGHT as I could IN PLACE, then ENCASED it with "GOOP" for plumbing, which has effectively achieved a positive seal!
^^^ VIOLA! Maytag to my service! YAY!
...more when the venting is run... THROUGH an inside wall, DOWN the basement stairwell... THROUGH the wall, then MORTAR siding (brick house!) and out. (NOT to mention the 220v outlet, etc...!)
-crisp
