I'm doing a restoration and upgrading what I think would make my goals along the way. We took things apart and repaired the wiring harness. Replaced a bad crank seal, front main seal, and timing belt. There were 2 injector clips not attached and the cold start clip was broken. We clipped and added new ones and the cold start is working as it should. We added a filter to the intake as it had none and we put the vaccume lines where they should be. Only thing we didn't hook up was the vcv. It's bad and makes the car die. Now for what's wrong. It idles at 1500rpm and if i'm feathering the throttle then it bogs down as if its trying to die. If I'm coming to a stop sometimes it does die. There was a vaccume leak coming from the brake booster area and I replaced that and there's no more leak. I have a slight smoke and the exhaust and smoke smell like fuel. Any ideas or suggestions are more than welcome. Thank you.
Possibly bad afr
- Thread starter meekmeek
- Start date
3in dp and 3in exhaust with a hi flow cat, hks bov, stock boost. Cold air intake, and upgraded boost gauge. Kyb struts and b&g springs. Vaccume control valve but it was never hooked up when I got it and it used to run okay. And before it used to idle at 700.
I also have an afc neo I haven't put in yet but the check engine light is on and has been since I got it Idk what else the previous owner did though. I do know there was a rebuild done at some point.
here are the pics of the things I noticed wrong. In the first pic there's supposed to be some kind of way for me to read the check engine codes unless I'm just not seeing it. It never had it if it's not there so I appologize. I used google to see where it should be. In the next, there should be some kind of canister on the firewall that's not there. and in the last pic there's the vaccume control valve. anything you can do to help out is greatly appreciated. Thank you.
Check your engine codes. Get back to us. Also check the pins in the AFM clip make sure its working correctly.
top left on the 1st pic, right near the shock. thats the dianostic port. It's supossed to clip on that metal tab sticking up the side of the fuse box in the bottom of the pic.
So I took it to a friend and he found the diagnostic port. It was tucked away a little further north and when we ran it and all it was throwing was 22 which is for a water temp.
okay so today I spent the day googling since I don't get paid til tmr and it said that it could be my problem. It says that it won't let it go into a closed loop if the sensor is faulty so I intend to get a new sensor, wideband, and plugs. And finally hook up my afc. Any other possibilities are more than welcome. Thank you.
So I got all I needed today. All that's left is the install which I intend to do in the morning. My final concern is I can't find the wiring to go to my temp switch. My fans are on all of the time instead of being run through the switch. Do you think it's something I should worry about or do you think that should fix it? Also, I want to go with an aftermarket gauge for water temp. By doing so would that continue to keep me in an open loop mode? Those are the only possible causes I can think of for my running rich. Thank you.
meekmeek;1810425 said:
Fans always on is not a big deal. Although they do take away from power that's about it wire them on a toggle then when your at the strip you can make a pass with them off lol.
code 22 is temp to ecu. the reason its running rich.. the sensor is on the thermostat housing, has two wires i believe 1 dark green and 1 brown.. you can google its exact location. and verify wire colors hope this helps!
hope this helps!okay. So I have a problem. I only have one wire. It's light yellow or a very light brown with a black stripe. Any suggestions. Maybe a location of where the wires somewhat originate in the engine bay so I can make new wires if need be?
I think you also said you have an Open to Atmosphere BOV, that can make you run rich.. Also would be why id dies when comming to a stop. Your dumping metered air into atmosphere and so makes it run rich. Also open to Atmophere BOV open at idle and could be messing with your O2 sensor cause the engine to go pos in fuel trim and dump fuel into the cylinders.