Possible fuel problems

[MA702Tone]

You should check your facts..hmmmm

Would you please specify what facts need to be checked? I am lost on where you are coming off her sir. I will say if it is in a negative manor, please keep them to your self, and contribute your time to helping out with this problem, if you have any other better ideas please post other wise, other than scrutinizing what I post :nono:. Thanks.

 

[mdr40z]

when I had something like that I couldn't accelerate at all, my afm was fubar

 

[MA702Tone]

I also wanted to add, as far as checking for any vacuum leaks, or from the turbo all the way to the head, you can also use a propane torch, with the gas turned on, no flame of course, use a rubber hose connected to the tip of the torch about a foot or two, and slowly go along all of the vacuum lines, and pressure side of the intake air stream. If the engine stutters, or rises in RPM you have a leak at that point. I am sure that there are other ways about going this rout, though this is was came to my mind first hand. Did you by chance run the supra with out an air filter lol, I ran filter less for about 2months, until it was time to clean the AFM, and seen all the junk and grime that was removed from the AFM.. Shocked I did not mess the AFM up :aigo: If you put new O-Rings on the injectors it certainly would not hurt, considering the mileage you said was on the engine. I also forgot to ask if you had the stock precat and secondary converter on the exhaust??? If so, slim though a possible chance that one or both of them may be clogged up.

White smoke: is normally a cause of anti-freeze burning in the piston cylinder. Normal ways for this to occur are a cracked head, blown head gasket,(warped head), or cracked cylinder block(normally uncommon).
What Black smoke means:

Black smoke: is often times a result of too much fuel and not enough air in the combustion chamber. In rare cases, it can be caused by weak fuel pressure causing fuel to 'drip' from injectors rather than 'spray'. It can also be caused by weak fire in the combustion chamber.

Gray smoke: is caused by brake fluid. It generally means that your brake master cylinder is bad, and is getting sucked through the vacuum brake hose.

What blue smoke means: is generally caused by the burning of an oil in the combustion chamber. Normal causes of oil getting into the combustion chamber are weak piston rings, bad valve guides, bad valve seals, or plugged up engines where oil is sucked back through PCV system, usually due to lack of oil changes.

The very best way to avoid bad colors coming from your exhaust is to keep your vehicle maintained. Upkeep of your vehicle is always a smart idea. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=21
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=22
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=24
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=31 Hope this may help out a lil bit or get you started on the right path of getting this fixed bud...

 

[dumbo]

What color of smoke if any comes out of your exhaust??? This may help better pinpoint what the issue may be. Do you have a strong odor of Fuel under your hood? When was the last time you changed your fuel filter??? If you think for more than 3 seconds it certainly would not hurt to replace it, since it is scheduled PM item in accordance to the TRSM. When you turn your ignition on, do you hear a hmmm in the back, or any noises??? It may be a good idea to have some one turn the key a click before the cranking position, while you are under the car to listen for the fuel pump. It would not hurt to check for, fuel pressure in according to the TRSM. Make sure your AFM is plugged in, check your knock sensors, evaluate the O2 sensor with a ohm meter to see if it falls with in TRSM specs.. If any all else fails use a BFH :love: J/ K :evil2: Hope this helps!!!

Mainly those, hence the hmmm.

Don't think the poopras primed like that.
Also you can jump terminals in the diagnostic box to manualy turn your FP on. To lazy to check what ones.

 

[dumbo]

I also wanted to add, as far as checking for any vacuum leaks, or from the turbo all the way to the head, you can also use a propane torch, with the gas turned on, no flame of course, use a rubber hose connected to the tip of the torch about a foot or two, and slowly go along all of the vacuum lines, and pressure side of the intake air stream. If the engine stutters, or rises in RPM you have a leak at that point. I am sure that there are other ways about going this rout, though this is was came to my mind first hand. Did you by chance run the supra with out an air filter lol, I ran filter less for about 2months, until it was time to clean the AFM, and seen all the junk and grime that was removed from the AFM.. Shocked I did not mess the AFM up :aigo: If you put new O-Rings on the injectors it certainly would not hurt, considering the mileage you said was on the engine. I also forgot to ask if you had the stock precat and secondary converter on the exhaust??? If so, slim though a possible chance that one or both of them may be clogged up.

White smoke: is normally a cause of anti-freeze burning in the piston cylinder. Normal ways for this to occur are a cracked head, blown head gasket,(warped head), or cracked cylinder block(normally uncommon).
What Black smoke means:

Black smoke: is often times a result of too much fuel and not enough air in the combustion chamber. In rare cases, it can be caused by weak fuel pressure causing fuel to 'drip' from injectors rather than 'spray'. It can also be caused by weak fire in the combustion chamber.

Gray smoke: is caused by brake fluid. It generally means that your brake master cylinder is bad, and is getting sucked through the vacuum brake hose.

What blue smoke means: is generally caused by the burning of an oil in the combustion chamber. Normal causes of oil getting into the combustion chamber are weak piston rings, bad valve guides, bad valve seals, or plugged up engines where oil is sucked back through PCV system, usually due to lack of oil changes.

The very best way to avoid bad colors coming from your exhaust is to keep your vehicle maintained. Upkeep of your vehicle is always a smart idea. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=21
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=22
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=24
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=FI&P=31 Hope this may help out a lil bit or get you started on the right path of getting this fixed bud...

wow, and is the brake fluid thing even possible, I think not...

 

[steveaw11]

yeah, theres no way for the brake fluid to enter the motor... All that would be is a vacuum leak.

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

Well I am running no cats. Straight pipe all the way out. I put fuel injector cleaner for the hell of it and it made it worse. enough to kinda miss at idle. Its probably my rail and injectors that car crap. hmmm anyone got a stock fuel rail, injectors and fuel injector clips for sale LOL. I dunno I since I don't have alot of money or knowledge I am just putting the stuff on that I have accumulated over the years and making look and feel better except the engine. I am catching up on all the crap I haven't been able to do on the car. Yeah I have to check everything. thanks

 

[dumbo]

Have you checked your timing, maybe I missed that?

Also I don't think muh can go wrong with your rail, so I wouldn't worry about that. Are all your injetors firing? You can do the "click" test by putting a screwdriver to them and listening for, well, a click while running.

No offence inteneded, but by no codes you mean a steady blink of the CEL, correct?

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

yeah its a steady blink. what does that mean, no codes right? Actually it happened before my CPS blew out. So I changed out the CPS and yes the timeing is correct because I've set it wrong a few times. One where it just never turned on another where you had to WOT for it stay running. Now I followed the book and quadruple checked it and it starts every time with no problems when I hit the gas its fine too when not in gear. When it warms up the car will pop a lil just as it were in gear rolling.

 

[dumbo]

What happens when you unplug various sensors one at time like, AFM, CPS...Might help pinpoint a problem area. Do you hear all your injectors working? Good luck man, not much people can do from there computer, good luck dude.

Yes, steady blink means no codes. I'm certain there is some electrical/electronic problems that the computer won't throw a code.

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

What happens when you unplug various sensors one at time like, AFM, CPS...Might help pinpoint a problem area. Do you hear all your injectors working? Good luck man, not much people can do from there computer, good luck dude.

Yes, steady blink means no codes. I'm certain there is some electrical/electronic problems that the computer won't throw a code.

well haven't been able to try yet I got school so I am pretty booked the whole week plus this weekend I need to do a project. so probably the weekened after teh next. I dunno something in the Supra is not doing its job correctly. I will check though. You can count on it.

 

[dumbo]

Supra first, school last. Haha nah I'm just kidding. Quickly try unplugging your AFM and see what it does. Just curious. Then try the TPS. Have fun at school...

 

[dslocal]

yeah, theres no way for the brake fluid to enter the motor... All that would be is a vacuum leak.

No reason to shoot him down w/o doing your homework like he tried to do:nono:
A master cylinder has a front and a rear seal in it (one for the front brakes one for the rear, or it can be diagonally split not sure on the supra)
Anyways if the rear seal fails then fluid will leak out of the back of the mc into the vacuum booster where it will be sucked into the intake. :sarcasm: Don't worry I wont tell anyone.

I think it will burn blue just like any other oil though. Not to sure on that one. Gday mate:biglaugh:

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

So i tried two things disconnecting the AFM and disconnecting the TPS. well the oddest thing happened when I discon. the AFM, absolutely nothing happened. I rememeber when the AFM was broken the car would run rich but nothing happened when I unplugged it. When I discon. the TPS the car started to act funny so I connected it back on and it was fine. Any thoughts?

 

[grimreaper]

unplugging the afm puts it into fail safe mode. It should run decent with no boost and nothing over 3000rpms iirc. When my afm went bad the only way to get it to start was to unplug it.

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

unplugging the afm puts it into fail safe mode. It should run decent with no boost and nothing over 3000rpms iirc. When my afm went bad the only way to get it to start was to unplug it.

Well I can start it with it plugged in. Maybe its dirty? Unknown.

 

[jetjock]

Don't think the poopras primed like that.

They don't. There's other fail in that post too. Good thing it's not in the Tech section...

 

[dumbo]

So i tried two things disconnecting the AFM and disconnecting the TPS. well the oddest thing happened when I discon. the AFM, absolutely nothing happened. I rememeber when the AFM was broken the car would run rich but nothing happened when I unplugged it. When I discon. the TPS the car started to act funny so I connected it back on and it was fine. Any thoughts?

I don't think the AFM is the problem then. :icon_mad:

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

Is there a simple way to check the fuel pressure on the Supra? Is the TSRM method the only way?

 

[SUPRASTEVE]

NEW NEWS!!! Well the Supra now is really acting like crap it doesn't even wanna idle or roll in gear with no foot on the pedel it jerks and feels like it needs gas when I got half a tank. I am thinking fuel pump. I need a pal to help me set up a fuel pressure gauge on it so we shall see.