Poorman's alt relocation!!!!

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
anyone else going ffim? pesky alternator in the way? i really wasn't up for buying the alternator relocation bracket right now, and i had a couple not-so-good alternators laying around so me and a couple of my friends did some tinkering, and found out that you could use ALL STOCK COMPONENTS for a new type of alternator relocation, aside from losing ac, which i was ditching anyways, this setup has not been ran, but can hold quite a bit of weight, and seems very reliable, i guess we'll see here in a few months, if anyone has any input as to why it won't work, let me know but here it is!!!!
first you will need one of these or something similar
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on the right side of the alternator there is a ridge, you will need to cut along this ridge until you get passed/through the thicker bolt hole for the stock upper bracket. The second picture will show the cut alternator and the piece that came off of it. Notice the bolt and washers going throught the afore mentioned holes, you will need a bolt roughly this size, and 4 roughly 1.5mm(or enough to space the alternator out enough to line up well with the position of the ac belt section of the crank pulley because you will be using the ac belt and belt position on the crank pulley to drive the alternator) thick washers in the pictured placement (one in front, three in back of the bolt hole) the hole on the motor you will both the alternator to is one of the bolts for the ac bracket that is located on the metal lower timing cover. This is my good alternator in the picture which has yet to be cut by the way, we used a junker as a prototype
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on the lower end you will use this bracket (correct me if i'm wrong but i'm pretty sure its the original lower alternator bracket) that will be bolted to the very bottom spot on the right hand corner of the motor, the bracket is adjustable, so adjust it to work! excuse the old cracked belt i won't be using it it was just the only ac belt we had laying around, unless your's is in good condition go to the parts store or wherever you get your parts and get an ac belt, get any kind you want, but i personally recommend gates but hey its your car.
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put the belt in place around the furthest out belt positon on the crank pulley and then on the alternator, you will notice the belt is EXTREMELY loose, don't call me an idiot just yet! take the stock ac belt tensioner and mount it upside down in its original position on the lower plasic timing cover, the ear on mine was cut partially and will cut the rest of the way off for aesthetics because it serves no purpose. But the reason we flipped the tensioner was so we could move the belt further upwards and tighten it, if you don't understand just do it and you will see why:icon_bigg
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well, after you have tightened the belt up to spec, this should be your finished product!
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tell me what you think!!!!
idiot? inventor? bad idea? good idea? needs improvement in the ____ area. all criticisms and revisions are welcome, sincerely,
:icon_bigg:icon_bigg:icon_biggcharles
 

j3pz

still learning
um what about the water pump pulley? i mean stock the wp and alt are on the same belt. what will you do for the wp now? even if you do find a belt to fit, how will you tension it? not trying to rain on your parade, just trying to look at the whole picture. i actually think its a good idea, just not thought all the way out. hope someone thinks of a way to solve this
 

Adjuster

Supramania Contributor
As you have it now, YOUR WATER PUMP IS NOT TURNING WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS.. This as you might guess, is a BAD DEAL. :)

Flip your AC tensioner over the right way, then get a longer belt, run it over the following..


Bell crank,
Around the water pump.
UNDER the AC tensioner..
Around the Alternator, and back to the bell crank..

To adjust the tension, DROP the AC tensioner down so it's running on the back of the belt... You might want to replace the ribbed roller, for a smooth one like is used on the Cam Belt Tensioner, but It appears you might have a few 7M's in states of disassembly laying around...

Second, your lower Alternator bracket is weak the way you have it bolted up.. The bolt part is there for tension only, not to support the unit...

You would be better served to fabricate a simple two point bracket that uses the stock 4 bolts location from the AC bracket.. that mounts your Alternator firmly in place.. And then use the AC tensioner to do the rest..

Or make your Alternator adjust like it was designed to do, and swing on one side, lock in place on the other, and remove the AC tensioner completely since you no longer need it. (However, get shorter bolts, and bolt the front cover on like it was there holding things in place...)

Good luck, but I still think Ron R's setup is by far, the best one I have ever seen, both in apearance, and function.. And you can keep your AC with it... :) (With a long runner FFIM that is..)
 

Supra_Villan

needs his car done
Nov 10, 2007
662
0
0
Wellsville MO
well....the water pump.....pretty hard to overlook huh......i haven't seen a running 7m up close in about 7 months and have COMPLETELY FORGOT the fact that the water pump runs off the alt belt..... back to the drawing board i guess it was too good to be true...... i'll be back though!! thanks for everyone's input i really appreciate it, maybe i could call this the water pump delete mod...:naughty: lol, but yeah ron does have a very nice setup, and i'm not saying that mine is better, just an alternative cuz i didn't buy one of his manifolds and i really don't feel like paying 70+bucks for a piece of metal especially not right now, but yeah, keep it coming all criticism/suggestions are welcome
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
3
38
56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
An electric water pump would solve your problem there. Add electric fans and you can keep cooling your engine even when it's not running. As long as you have battery power, anyway.

I'm with Adjuster on the Alternator mount though, I'd be concerned about tensioning that system and expecting all the pieces to hold at high RPM.
 

Suprapowaz!(2)

New Member
Apr 10, 2006
2,870
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San Antonio, Tx.
Creative, innovative, but... ::hah::
Supra_Villan;1028123 said:
well....the water pump.....pretty hard to overlook huh......i haven't seen a running 7m up close in about 7 months and have COMPLETELY FORGOT the fact that the water pump runs off the alt belt..... back to the drawing board i guess it was too good to be true......
 

SLO-MK3

Not on the 1jz bandwagon
Nov 4, 2006
246
0
0
Plumas Lake, CA
Adjuster;1027227 said:
As you have it now, YOUR WATER PUMP IS NOT TURNING WHEN THE ENGINE RUNS.. This as you might guess, is a BAD DEAL. :)

Flip your AC tensioner over the right way, then get a longer belt, run it over the following..


Bell crank,
Around the water pump.
UNDER the AC tensioner..
Around the Alternator, and back to the bell crank..

To adjust the tension, DROP the AC tensioner down so it's running on the back of the belt... You might want to replace the ribbed roller, for a smooth one like is used on the Cam Belt Tensioner, but It appears you might have a few 7M's in states of disassembly laying around...

Second, your lower Alternator bracket is weak the way you have it bolted up.. The bolt part is there for tension only, not to support the unit...

You would be better served to fabricate a simple two point bracket that uses the stock 4 bolts location from the AC bracket.. that mounts your Alternator firmly in place.. And then use the AC tensioner to do the rest..

Or make your Alternator adjust like it was designed to do, and swing on one side, lock in place on the other, and remove the AC tensioner completely since you no longer need it. (However, get shorter bolts, and bolt the front cover on like it was there holding things in place...)

Good luck, but I still think Ron R's setup is by far, the best one I have ever seen, both in apearance, and function.. And you can keep your AC with it... :) (With a long runner FFIM that is..)




I'm not so sure that would work either, because the alt and water pump are now mis-aligned, since the routing of the now alt belt is in the position of what would be the A/C, which is on the outer belt groove of the crank pulley. The water pump is designed to use the middle groove. So in order for that to work, the WP pulley would need to have a spacer( might be able to flip the pulley around, but it might stick out too far)

Not a bad idea for a serpentine design though Adj


I agree with the mounting points being weak though. At least one, if not both, of the bolts will likely shear. If you're going to run that set-up, make sure you use high grade hardware. I'm using a Ron R short runner bracket, and I had both bolts that hold the braket on shear from using lower grade bolts. That was not a good weekend, and I don't mean the part about the alt falling off on the freeway.