Poor motor oil selection and excessive temperatures in rebuilt 7m

[Beefy_Heafy]

haha too late on the boosting thing.... cool ill put some more in before my next drive. wow i should totally do that build thread i was meaning to do 6months ago. a lot has changed since then. there's heaps of good stuff here as well. pity about the oiling system stuff up.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

so ive been looking around for good prices on an accusump and all the other things that go with it and am confused about the epc here http://treperformance.com/i-133440-accusump-epc-valve-20-25-psi.html
i have read this thread http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...er...Who-s-done-it-amp-How&highlight=accusump
but still dont understand how the EPC valve doesnt affect the accusump's operation when the engine is on. wouldnt its toggle switch only allow it to be either shut or regulating >20-25psi oil in <20-25psi oil out.
or is it that the toggle switch allows it to change between regulation mode and open (as if it weren't there) and the ignition on switch changes between closed and toggle switch preference

 

[IJ.]

Solenoids only really seal in one direction, if the valve is off/closed and the engine is running the accumulator will charge with oil pressure but won't discharge back into the engine.

I used to run mine with no valve at all just T'd into the main line back into the engine (The non return/antidrainback valve in most modern filters stops the Oil heading in the wrong direction and if the pump sucks air for any reason the Accumulator charges the main gallery and saves the engine.)

Now as I run a scavenge pump for the Turbo drain I can't do it this way and have had to fit a Solenoid to the accumulator to shut it off on engine shutdown or it would bleed down and flood the Turbo (average discharge on a tight engine with the 10/60 was about 4 minutes to 0 pressure)

All depends on how automated you want it to be and if you want to use it to precharge the engine on cold starts, I can have the MoTeC gear do all this for me but most people will run a toggle switch, give the engine a rev before shutdown flip the switch to capture a charge then shut down, next time they start the engine flip the toggle then crank it.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

is the solenoid you use one of the epc valves i linked to or is it an open closed type thing. which i would prefer since i dont like the idea of waiting for the pressure to drop below 25psi for the accusump to discharge. I must be missing something here, too much reading in one day ughhhh

 

[IJ.]

Mine is just a normal on/off valve (the front section of that one you linked) in use I run the engine with the valve open, if the engine makes 60psi you have 50psi of oil in the accummulator (10psi base charge on the air spring) if the motor slows the pressure will feed back into the engine until it equalises ie: stopping at lights and idling.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

yes that's exactly what i want. so i guess ill get that one and then unscrew the back section? Im having trouble finding anything i want available in AUS. its cheaper to buy in U.S. and then have it shipped to my door than it is to buy at local performance shop. Where do u go for these things? Also looking for a good oil cooler and oil thermostat

 

[IJ.]

Ironic part of that Valve is it's made here in Australia by a company I worked at many years ago, yes it was cheaper to order it from Summit USA than to buy it here.

Ditto on the Cooler and T Stat..

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

I might get it all in one hit.... ouch my credit card
hmm i notice the switch u linked me has a 35-40psi solenoid... im assuming u left that bit out in your oiling system and run switch only? wow this website is good. thanks tons
looking at the permacool thermostat. is that what u have also?
Lol@ the irony, goes all the way there to come back here more expensive... fail

 

[IJ.]

I don't use the Hobbs swicth at all I just program the MoTeC for when I want it to open/close.

This is the T Stat I run

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

omg IJ this keeps getting better and better. this website is cheaper and has everything i need. EVER
Im in love
That is the best thermostat by far. with the -10 male fittings it makes itself the winner.
And a switch with none of this "x psi - y psi" bizzo is here to OMG!
Will totally order all of this tonight.
and NA stud first thing tomorow
ill change it all to this awesome looking aeroequip socketless so that those braids aren't all down there in my engine bar rubbing through everything and eachother

 

[IJ.]

LOL happy to help you spend the $$$
(makes a nice change from spending my own)

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

what tee are you running into the accumulator. i cant seem to find the right one. i guess ill need a -10an with 1/2"npt branch but it doesnt seem to be on racer parts wholesale. closest availiable is this http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/4987/AeroquipTeeAdapters but then id need to make the -10an branch into 1/2" npt somehow

 

[IJ.]

Speedflow do a -10 1/2Npt -10 T, I got mine here from my hose supplier. (825-10)

If you can't find one let me know I'll grab one and mail it up.

Distributor up there

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

thats exactly what i need. local performance shop would have it or order it but i assume they would charge me more than $50 for it.... how much does it cost you

---------- Post added at 11:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:27 PM ----------

i estimate that ill need 7m of socketless hose (overkill) +1m for safety and in case i want to move something at some point
8m or 26ft... $$$
how much did u use if u can remember... really depends on how u set it up i guess
ill have the accusump remote filter and cooler thermostat close together on passenger side of engine bay (RHD) and then cooler either behind passenger driving lamp or in between rad and intercooler

---------- Post added at 11:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 PM ----------

ohh yup ill just get those guys at slacks creek to mail me one if i cant get it for sane price in town

 

[IJ.]

Really don't know sorry, I just hand my guy a list and take my bag of bits home to play, don't really hear/see prices unless they're ridiculous.

Mine wraps around the engine bay so LOTS this time, for the 7M I think I bought 4 metres.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

thats cool man. i called local shop this morn and ordered the (825-10) tee for 20 or 30 something dollars. i can live with that.

i ordered an NA stud from toyota. will take weeks. needs to come from japan. No fast and furious "overnight parts from japan!" coming for my supra

and from Racer parts wholesale i ordered
Accusump Oil Accumulator - 3 Qt
Accusump Electric Valve Kit
Accusump Mounting Clamps
-10AN Mocal Remote Oil Thermostat
Mocal 16 Row, 235 Matrix Oil Cooler with -10AN Fittings
Aeroquip Socketless 90 Degree Elbow Fitting -10 x 12
Aeroquip Straight Socketless Fitting -10 x 2
-10 Aeroquip Socketless Hose, Black x 22ft/6.5m

got a few extra fittings so i can mix and match as I'm sure it wont all go in how i plan. I already have the permacool filter adaptor and remote single oil filter head. both have the 1/2npt to -10an things screwed into them so i didn't need any more of those either.
Shame to see the shiny braided lines go but i tend to prefernce function over form (although form is nice to). Make way for progress.

She still drives okay with current oil setup. Im just babying it extra careful like when its cold and then not giving it too harder a time when its hot also have it like 1L overfull as IJ suggested

The cst for the penrite semi syn 10w50 i have in the car lands somewhere in between castrol edge 0w40 and 10w60 funnily enough When i get all these parts in ill fill it back up with castrol edge 0w-40 and see how i go

The pressures look like the ones that Jdub said i need with my clearances when hot. except for when its in the upper rev ranges where the cooler relief valve starts to leech a bit too much pressure so ill try not to take it up to that for my 7m's sake

Does that all sound okay with u more experienced peeps?

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

I was just wondering guys. in the event that i cannot get my gte filter head off the car due to my crazy manifold obstructing it. Would it then be okay to just block up the filter relief valve on the gte head. or remove the valve and spring then block the hole. and then run the remote filter and cooler in series with thermostat as i would anyway. just from the now relief valve-less gte filter head instead of from the na stud? i mean that sounds all good in theory or is there some other factor of the gte head vs na stud im forgetting here

 

[IJ.]

In theory yes but why would you leave that pileOcrap bolted to the engine?

find a wrecker that has a 7M cressida and go unbolt the NA stud it's much simpler/cleaner.

 

[Beefy_Heafy]

Id prefer to get rid of it yes. I guess im just looking for a lazy way out, trying to aviod having to remove turbo and manifold in the event that i cant get to the bolt on the gte head. Stupid i know, i own a mk3 do it the right way or gtfo. Yeah if all those parts get here from the U.S. before my na stud comes from japan ill go to the wreckers for one. Knowing the way wreckers operate they will try to charge me more than toyota is. i remember paying $40 for a fuel pulse dampener for my 25yr old ra65 at a wreckers once. and it was just as old. WTF

its gunna be hard to get a spanner / socket on it :s as u can see the gte head is nearly completely obscured by the mani and heat wrap. but if i can get it off, making the remote filter adapter fit shouldn't be an issue.

how nice is the manifold tho

"merge collector" works wonders. makes .1bar at 1700rpm! or maybe that's just the wonders made by Garrett turbos

I all of a sudden have this massive urge to go driving...

 

[IJ.]

Should be able to get it from the bottom, very nice header!
(don't ya just love how itchy that wrap is....)