pockmarks in decked block?
- Thread starter legolyle
- Start date
Told you to go elsewhere......hope it works out in the end for you. Just check EVERYTHING they did thoroughly before you commit to reassembly. Head squareness, bores for roundness, taper etc. I don't care what sort of engine it is, those pits shouldn't be in a machined deck face.
I hear what your saying Typhoon, but I had already paid before I even had looked at the block. My first mistake. So like I said, if I could get em to fix it I was gonna. The pits are gone, I got em to machine it 20/1000 more. I'll check as much as I can, don't worry...not going to put this thing together based on their word alone.
Titan's out of the 2mm gaskets, gotta wait till next week to get one, ugh, more waiting lol. Thanks IJ! Thanks everyone!
Titan's out of the 2mm gaskets, gotta wait till next week to get one, ugh, more waiting lol. Thanks IJ! Thanks everyone!
Why not get the SIP 2.0mm
http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-413/SIP-Racing-MLS-head/Detail
http://www.sipracingmailorder.com/servlet/the-413/SIP-Racing-MLS-head/Detail
hey, good idea, didn't know they carried em, if I can get in contact with Rich and find out if he has them in stock and if hes willing to ship in the next day or two I might.
Titan is only like 2.5 hours away from my house...so I could actually go pick it up if I wanted, hopefully he answers lol.
So they'd get here about the same time if he shipped it tomorrow/Thursday.
Titan is only like 2.5 hours away from my house...so I could actually go pick it up if I wanted, hopefully he answers lol.
So they'd get here about the same time if he shipped it tomorrow/Thursday.
legolyle;1740760 said:I hear what your saying Typhoon, but I had already paid before I even had looked at the block. My first mistake. So like I said, if I could get em to fix it I was gonna. The pits are gone, I got em to machine it 20/1000 more. I'll check as much as I can, don't worry...not going to put this thing together based on their word alone.
Titan's out of the 2mm gaskets, gotta wait till next week to get one, ugh, more waiting lol. Thanks IJ! Thanks everyone!
I know, it sucks to be in these positions. If they did the work and it's O.K, well, that's the best that can be expected. I just hate arrogant and rude business people. I've worked in small business all my life and it's not hard to do the right thing and not act like an asshole.
legolyle;1740760 said:I hear what your saying Typhoon, but I had already paid before I even had looked at the block. My first mistake. So like I said, if I could get em to fix it I was gonna. The pits are gone, I got em to machine it 20/1000 more. I'll check as much as I can, don't worry...not going to put this thing together based on their word alone.
Titan's out of the 2mm gaskets, gotta wait till next week to get one, ugh, more waiting lol. Thanks IJ! Thanks everyone!
Very welcome don't hesitate to ask if there's anything else you need a hand with!
So I found out the shop hadn't removed the oil pump bearings for when they hot tanked the block, retarded, so I tried installing them myself. The socket I used to tap them in with wedged itself into the smaller inside bearing and messed it up.
I found some more at napa (tai-ho brand), and I discovered that for some reason, of the two dura-bond bearings (from SIP) that the larger one had no oil hole in it...I didn't notice this until I purchased the new bearings from napa and compared all three sets (toyota, durabond, and tai-ho).
This time I'm getting a friendly mechanic I know to install the bearings for me haha.
But this cant be right...the Toyota bearings have an oil hole for a reason...why the heck does the dura-bond not have an oil hole?
I'll post pictures later when I get home.
just wanted to point out that the dura-bond didn't have an oil hole, I would get in contact with Rich (purchased from SIP) and let him know, but I already messed up one of the bearings.
I also left him a message Wednesday asking him to let me know if he had any head gaskets..never got a call back. Doesn't want business I guess... :dunno:
I found some more at napa (tai-ho brand), and I discovered that for some reason, of the two dura-bond bearings (from SIP) that the larger one had no oil hole in it...I didn't notice this until I purchased the new bearings from napa and compared all three sets (toyota, durabond, and tai-ho).
This time I'm getting a friendly mechanic I know to install the bearings for me haha.
But this cant be right...the Toyota bearings have an oil hole for a reason...why the heck does the dura-bond not have an oil hole?
I'll post pictures later when I get home.
just wanted to point out that the dura-bond didn't have an oil hole, I would get in contact with Rich (purchased from SIP) and let him know, but I already messed up one of the bearings.
I also left him a message Wednesday asking him to let me know if he had any head gaskets..never got a call back. Doesn't want business I guess... :dunno:
legolyle;1742283 said:
needs the oil hole, id still let rich know anyways, probably a bad batch and needs to be recalled.
pics of the larger bearing with no oil hole:
old Toyota bearing on the left, dura-bond on the right:
Toyota on bottom:
Both Toyota bearings on left, with both dura-bond on the right.
I'll direct Rich to these pics/the thread to let him know, so no one can have any grief from this, that would totally suck if anyone's engine got a knock because of an $8 bearing...
EDIT: Here's a pic of the small dura-bond bearing after I got my hands on it...and used a socket to try and whack it in:
Moral of the story? Just get your damned machinist to put these in lol....
old Toyota bearing on the left, dura-bond on the right:
Toyota on bottom:
Both Toyota bearings on left, with both dura-bond on the right.
I'll direct Rich to these pics/the thread to let him know, so no one can have any grief from this, that would totally suck if anyone's engine got a knock because of an $8 bearing...
EDIT: Here's a pic of the small dura-bond bearing after I got my hands on it...and used a socket to try and whack it in:
Moral of the story? Just get your damned machinist to put these in lol....
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ugh, posted this, then deleted it because I thought I had misread the tsrm, which I was sort of right...but anyway, this:
I have another conundrum to sort out.
edit:
all measurements in inches!
last week I checked the mains' oil clearances using some plastigauge, I haven't posted about it yet because I wanted to see what the machine shop had to say.The clearances, as measured with plastigauge, all came out to around .003, maybe even a bit more-none were close to .002 with spec being between .0008 and .0019 (and max being .0028). Is plastigauge accurate enough to merit worry here? The machine shop said that plastigauge isn't accurate enough-and that they checked everything before they gave it to me and its fine.
Now obviously I'd agree if the plastigauge came out to say, .002, but being that its almost 1 whole thousandth off...I'm beginning to question their "measurements."
I'm supposed to be getting the engine back from the mechanic I left it with tonight, ill check the clearances again and probably use a different torque wrench. I'll report back when I find out for sure, but or now I just wanted to see if anyone can shed some light on these plastigauge findings....
thanks again guys
I have another conundrum to sort out.
edit:
all measurements in inches!
last week I checked the mains' oil clearances using some plastigauge, I haven't posted about it yet because I wanted to see what the machine shop had to say.The clearances, as measured with plastigauge, all came out to around .003, maybe even a bit more-none were close to .002 with spec being between .0008 and .0019 (and max being .0028). Is plastigauge accurate enough to merit worry here? The machine shop said that plastigauge isn't accurate enough-and that they checked everything before they gave it to me and its fine.
Now obviously I'd agree if the plastigauge came out to say, .002, but being that its almost 1 whole thousandth off...I'm beginning to question their "measurements."
I'm supposed to be getting the engine back from the mechanic I left it with tonight, ill check the clearances again and probably use a different torque wrench. I'll report back when I find out for sure, but or now I just wanted to see if anyone can shed some light on these plastigauge findings....
thanks again guys
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This is a red flag IMO. When they say they checked it and everything is "fine", that worries me. Thats exactly what my machinist said about my oil shaft bearings, and I didn't trust him, so I measured them myself and they had .004" of clearance. He charged me to check them too... When I asked him what my main and rod clearances were, he said he checked them and they were all fine, then I asked him again what exactly were the clearances, and he pulled out his mic and started measuring the crank in front of me, as if he never did it before. Needless to say the crank had been polished (by him) too much and pushed the crank out of spec barely. When I confronted him he told me to sand the bearing caps down, this is about when I got angry and gathered my stuff. If they can't give you concrete numbers/measurements for each rod and journal I would say it is a good idea to cut your losses now and find a different shop before you regret it.legolyle;1743898 said:
well, good and bad news.
The mechanic I took it too is a pretty awesome guy, he was putting the oil pump driveshaft bearings in for free (although I still paid him something), when I asked him if he had the equipment to check the clearances with mic's if I paid him-he asked me where I took it. When I told him, he told me he had had nothing but bad results with the place I took it to-Tachyon automotive. I know the mechanic a little, and he does a fair amount of performance work. he said that he thought they did a pretty poor job with the honing-and that it needed to be bored because of the convex areas at the top.
The best part of all this though is the guy was so awesome, that he offered to send it over (to check the bottom end) to what he claims is the "best place in town" called "precision crank" and that because he knew I was just 'learning" that he would get them to do it as a professional favor (aka no charge to me)-because he says he does a lot of business with them.
pretty awesome of him-and he said I'd most likely have it back before the weekend.
I hope that they find the clearances are good-but if they dont...well...I get to shoot it out with Tachyon over wasted time and money on bearings that don't fit....I swear to god-if the rods are out of spec too, I'll lose my mind lol....
The mechanic I took it too is a pretty awesome guy, he was putting the oil pump driveshaft bearings in for free (although I still paid him something), when I asked him if he had the equipment to check the clearances with mic's if I paid him-he asked me where I took it. When I told him, he told me he had had nothing but bad results with the place I took it to-Tachyon automotive. I know the mechanic a little, and he does a fair amount of performance work. he said that he thought they did a pretty poor job with the honing-and that it needed to be bored because of the convex areas at the top.
The best part of all this though is the guy was so awesome, that he offered to send it over (to check the bottom end) to what he claims is the "best place in town" called "precision crank" and that because he knew I was just 'learning" that he would get them to do it as a professional favor (aka no charge to me)-because he says he does a lot of business with them.
pretty awesome of him-and he said I'd most likely have it back before the weekend.
I hope that they find the clearances are good-but if they dont...well...I get to shoot it out with Tachyon over wasted time and money on bearings that don't fit....I swear to god-if the rods are out of spec too, I'll lose my mind lol....
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I shoot for mid to high 2's for around the 500rwhp mark, anything looser is a bit hard to maintain the oil wedge at low RPM.
Plastigauge if used correctly is a good final check but no substitute for a mic and someone that can read it, the shop "should" when asked provide you with measurements for each and every journal.
Plastigauge if used correctly is a good final check but no substitute for a mic and someone that can read it, the shop "should" when asked provide you with measurements for each and every journal.
yeah, I read another post where you said the somewhat loose specs were better on the 7m, but the plastigauge measured out to .003 and above. Obviously, plastigauge is not the be all end all, but getting this actually measured with a mic (again?) will put my mind at ease for obvious reasons. I didn't really press for numbers over the phone, just asked them if they knew what they got, and they said "it was fine etc."
getting all of their worked double checked by another shop is a plus in my book. I'll get this new shop to give me specific numbers on what they get, and then give a call over to tachyon and ask if them to give me the exact numbers, if written down somewhere-IF the numbers come out badly at the new shop.
I'll have news probably today or tomorrow.
getting all of their worked double checked by another shop is a plus in my book. I'll get this new shop to give me specific numbers on what they get, and then give a call over to tachyon and ask if them to give me the exact numbers, if written down somewhere-IF the numbers come out badly at the new shop.
I'll have news probably today or tomorrow.
FINALLY I have some information....
Went to talk with the machine shop the engine was at today, it was like night and day difference (attitude-wise) from the other place imo. Either way, the other shop has cost me about 200 bucks easy, and a lot of time...
Anyway, they told me everything was fine but the bores, if I wanted to turbo it in the future they suggested it be bored, because it was out by about 5 thous.
I decided to go ahead and bore it 20 over.
I was talking to the guy about balancing, and he said it would be 180ish to balance the assembly. What do you guys think about getting it balanced right now, Is it worth it?
thanks again guys, I cant wait to get this back together
Went to talk with the machine shop the engine was at today, it was like night and day difference (attitude-wise) from the other place imo. Either way, the other shop has cost me about 200 bucks easy, and a lot of time...
Anyway, they told me everything was fine but the bores, if I wanted to turbo it in the future they suggested it be bored, because it was out by about 5 thous.
I decided to go ahead and bore it 20 over.
I was talking to the guy about balancing, and he said it would be 180ish to balance the assembly. What do you guys think about getting it balanced right now, Is it worth it?
thanks again guys, I cant wait to get this back together