Placebo Upgrade...lol
- Thread starter T701jz
- Start date
Are there load spreaders inside the cowl or is it just nutserted to the .9mm sheetmetal?
(too many hinge joints, the strut mount needs 2 bolts so it can't act as a pivot under compression loads)
(too many hinge joints, the strut mount needs 2 bolts so it can't act as a pivot under compression loads)
IJ.;1400592 said:
Rivnuts.
I'm adding a 1/16-1/8 SS-plate across to beef up the fire wall. The joints are bolted and pin (tight) and the base joints are 1'' in diameter. It would have to take tons of stress to move all 4 points structure....with double A-arm.
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PureDrifter;1400613 said:
Made it all at one night at work.
I'm taking it for a rd/canyon test today :icon_wink. I can already feel the additional 80hp gain :icon_wink.
I think rivnuts are brilliant little things for light duty applications, holding on bodywork or the like. I've never had one completely pull out, but typically what happened when you put a loads on them is they loosened up and wore whatever hole they're in. So they end up needing to be drilled out and replaced on a regular basis.
For this application I think the easiest route (ie - no welding) would be a nut with a thick hardened fender washer on it. Or you might get away with a non-floating nut plate with SS rivets if for whatever reason you were going to be removing those mounting blocks all the time.
Since it's done now I wouldn't worry about changing it though, especially since I don't know what sort of load, if any at all, they may see. Just my thoughts when I saw it...
For this application I think the easiest route (ie - no welding) would be a nut with a thick hardened fender washer on it. Or you might get away with a non-floating nut plate with SS rivets if for whatever reason you were going to be removing those mounting blocks all the time.
Since it's done now I wouldn't worry about changing it though, especially since I don't know what sort of load, if any at all, they may see. Just my thoughts when I saw it...
mkIIIman089;1401214 said:
Well...I've never had one failed on me and I have tested these rivs with all my weigh hanging from the ceiling. Like I said I'm riveting an extra plate at the fire wall. Just like Ian said the wall is only .9mil wall of thickness. A proper use of rivs (type) and crimp pressure should be close to having it weld. I remember using/riveting these insert-nuts at Aerospace(Lockheed)...now can you imagine the stress on that?
Like IJ said, the rear arms need to be fixed for it to control the body flex, otherwise it'll just pivot with the body. Here's a picture of a Toyota Corolla GTS with a TRD 3-point strut bar, that's what needs to happen.
Very nice looking, though! Good job
Very nice looking, though! Good job
IJ.;1406118 said:Much better now make the front joint double bolted and it has a chance of helping
Meaning.... fix joint....so it couldn't sway left and right. I could weld that joint permanent.
T701jz;1406162 said:
I think I'd just double bolt it, that way it's easy to work on the car if that bit's in the way just unbolt it and not the entire brace, the other point is the car WILL bend in time if you drive it hard so what bolts up today may not next time it's off!
(at least with bolts you have a little bit of wiggle room)