I have seen an in cabin manual boost controller, it comes with a cable almost like a speedometer cable to relocate the turn nob to the cabin so your vacuum lines aren't any longer then normal.
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- Thread starter Reiketsukan
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Depends... some of them are very different. The one I'm thinking about still uses short vacuum lines, but has a long cable actuated adjustment knob that mounts in the cabin. Problem is, if you're going to spend that kind of money on a boost controller, why in the world wouldn't you buy an electronic one? Then you get all kinds of other benefits, among them no risk of boost spikes or falloff.
Edit: Beaten by the Cat. Congrats BC!
Edit: Beaten by the Cat. Congrats BC!
I've seen that Hallman one with the cable that you're referring to (I almost bought it, but came to the same conclusion as Grimjack), but the 'in-cabin' version of the one I bought looks like this:
It seems like it would required long vacuum lines to reach, so I can only guess that it must be different internally to keep it from acting really weird. Know what I mean? Or am I just crazy...
*EDIT*
I found this in the instructions for this 'in cabin' model. It uses this 'T' and only one vacuum line to manage boost... Strange...
It seems like it would required long vacuum lines to reach, so I can only guess that it must be different internally to keep it from acting really weird. Know what I mean? Or am I just crazy...
*EDIT*
I found this in the instructions for this 'in cabin' model. It uses this 'T' and only one vacuum line to manage boost... Strange...
I have the above "in cabin" Turbosmart MBC. Would have been kinda a pain in the butt to get the vacuum line through my firewall at the moment, so I just turned the knob all the way in (minimum boost) and I'm still hitting ~16psi with ease. Granted, the boost controller itself is on the end of about 6-8' of line. Call me an idiot for asking, but (this is my first turbo car) does it seem like that could be the reason I can't get it to settle at a lower boost level? *puts the flame suit on* 
No flaming! That seems like an honest question and it's parallel to my own concerning the internals of the two different styles of MBC pictured in this thread. Your 'symptoms' lead me to believe that your 'in cabin' boost controller has a more precise internal mechanism meant to deal with that longer vacuum line (and the lower pressures that come with it) that would be needed in its intended application. If I were you, I'd try running the vacuum line as per the instructions (one long line from the turbo to the cabin, maybe the glove compartment) and see how it affects your ability to control boost. I bet that'd fix you up...
If you are going to use a manual, why not use the drjonez manaul controller? He is upstanding member of the community. I bought it, and it worked great on the CT26. It is having a little trouble with the bigger blower, in terms of hitting where I want, but that is expected with the big increase in flow. And his was $30. Or something like that.
I have no doubt that the Dr. Jones controller works flawlessly, but I wanted something mountable for easy adjustment, lockable to prevent it adjusting itself, and I wanted it to be purdy lol.
In my talon I had one I bought for $30 at a show that went under the hood. It was reliable but a pain when you need to tune it.
I have the Hallman IN cabin, boost controller in my Supra now. With the wideband and the SAFC one less electronic thing the better. I do happen to mess around with the boost quite a bit. I turn it down for getting from A to B. I have a stock head gasket and an upgraded turbo so I try to hang on to as much borrowed time as possible. When I do need to turn it up I don't have to pull over every pull.
I don't have any problem keeping mine at 6-8 steady. Possible since it's not fed straight it's kinked?
I have the Hallman IN cabin, boost controller in my Supra now. With the wideband and the SAFC one less electronic thing the better. I do happen to mess around with the boost quite a bit. I turn it down for getting from A to B. I have a stock head gasket and an upgraded turbo so I try to hang on to as much borrowed time as possible. When I do need to turn it up I don't have to pull over every pull.
I don't have any problem keeping mine at 6-8 steady. Possible since it's not fed straight it's kinked?
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Reiketsukan;1619492 said:
Everything's set up according to TS's instructions... Might try putting it on a significantly shorter section of line from the tee and see if things change. Or if not a bit of machining may be in order... Machinst/mechanic friend of mine says these sort of boost controllers don't do well for higher pressures or bigger turbos, they can't relieve fast enough according to him. I have no reason to argue with him, but it would seem strange of Driftmotion to sell them for our cars, knowing the things we do to them...
if you tune your car with the safc and change the boost you will need to retune the safc for that. so a mbc seems to be a good call, so you wont be temted to keep messing with it. helped with me, lol
te72;1619838 said:
I'm sorry, I must have misread your earlier post. I assumed since you said this....
te72;1619446 said:
...that you had went ahead and just stuck your 'in cabin' controller in the engine compartment!
Shows what I get for assuming...
BTW gentlemen, if you decide to order a MBC like mine from DM, be sure you don't need it in a hurry. They "Drop Ship" them from the Turbosmart warehouse all the way in Ontario! I ordered mine on the 15th and still haven't gotten it yet!
::SECOND UPDATE::
Well, it turns out the previous owner DIDN'T install an MLS headgasket and ARP's like he said... Found this out when I BHG'd from 13psi on the dyno today!!! Once I saw white smoke, I shut it down and I'm having it towed home... Time to take it apart and DO IT RIGHT. ARP studs and a nice thick HG, as well as getting the head checked. In retrospect, knowing what I know now, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did!
On the brighter side, that Turbosmart MBC worked GREAT! Spooled hella quick and held solid boost.
Well, it turns out the previous owner DIDN'T install an MLS headgasket and ARP's like he said... Found this out when I BHG'd from 13psi on the dyno today!!! Once I saw white smoke, I shut it down and I'm having it towed home... Time to take it apart and DO IT RIGHT. ARP studs and a nice thick HG, as well as getting the head checked. In retrospect, knowing what I know now, I'm surprised it lasted as long as it did!
On the brighter side, that Turbosmart MBC worked GREAT! Spooled hella quick and held solid boost.
OUCH. I would be calling the previous owner. At least this time its your way with no one to blame but yourself.
I could call him, hell I could go to his house about 20 minutes from here, but I don't think it would change much. He could just say the guy he got it from lied to him or some such BS. In any event, I'm not going to let this "break my stride". I'm already on the hunt for parts!. I found a 2mm headgasket at Titan Motorsports for $176 along with some studs for $127. I need to check my bank account lol.
Sorry to hear bro. At least now u have a legit reason to build/upgrade and know that the next time its on the dyno, its business time.