pistons and valves?

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Oh and on one more note, if by rebadged rods your referring to the h-beams sold on ebay, and the no name h-beams sold by others, they are a different brand manufactured in a different factory. I've had both rods in hand and i can assure you they are different.

 

[figgie]

Oh and on one more note, if by rebadged rods your referring to the h-beams sold on ebay, and the no name h-beams sold by others, they are a different brand manufactured in a different factory. I've had both rods in hand and i can assure you they are different.

yes i have seen them sheer and/or develop "spider" stress fractures begining on the sides going inward which were caught before sheering happened. There should be zero reason why a rod of all things should develop ANY crack at all but these eagles had em.

As for ebay, never stated anything about ebay Eagle is one name brand of the product. Then you have them as numerous store branded rods (check summit and Jegs) to just name a few.

 

[trainwreck]

Well, now that this thread has gone 600% off track, I figure that I will throw in my 2 cents here.@ mind you, this all comes from personal expirence.

I once beleived that treated stock rods were something you could trust. That was until one night last spring, when I got a phone call that there was a slight mishap with my car. Apparently, there was a bit of load on the rods while crusing at close to rev limiter in 5th gear, and a stock rod let go. This was catrastropich engine damage.
It was shortly after that night that I realized that I would never trust my life to garbage, "800 hp capable" stock rods. I hope this proves the point that stock rods are not all they are cracked up to be.
Had eagle rods been avail when I was going through a reconstruction, I prolly would have chosen them, but crowers were my best option at the time.
I too have see upwards of 600 whp through a honda motor equiped with "garbage" eagle rods, and would much rather trust my life to eagle than stock treated rods.
Remember, you get what you pay for.

 

[boost PSSH boost]

Anyone ever check an eagle rod to make sure it's round? I have a set of eagles....2 were fuckin out of round! I was able to get replacements, used them for a year...We'll see how they look when I tear it down in a couple weeks.

 

[Stretch]

I looked at my eagles for a few minutes, then installed the pistons backwards, then re-installed forwards ahahah and assumed everything was perfect :icon_razz . If my engine fires up and runs for 1 minute or longer, then god has decided to give me his blessing and not explode my block. That's just how I look at it anyway.
eric

 

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Anyone ever check an eagle rod to make sure it's round? I have a set of eagles....2 were fuckin out of round! I was able to get replacements, used them for a year...We'll see how they look when I tear it down in a couple weeks.

Actually most rods are out of round. Aftermarket and stock. Even my crowers were out of round. Every rod should be honed to the right size and normally that will make them round again. The thrust sides of the rod are the important ones. The problem is that when you cut down a rod to make it smaller, your cutting the caps, and rehoning it to size, so the sides are allways bigger then the rest of the rod.

 

[IJ.]

My Pauter's were 100% perfect out of the box when they were inspected!

It's a pity about the distance I have a brand new set of Genuine GTE pistons here I won't be using.

 

[Adjuster]

I have to second the Pauter comments. Mine were/are perfect in every way. (Except that Flatlander ordered them the wrong size.. so they were the perfect wrong size.... LOL) Thanks Phil..

After Pauter resized them for me with new bushings on the pin bores with the right hard bronze inserts, I have had no problems with them since.

That's also nice to know that ROSS is offering the pistons coated from the factory. How much are they charging for that? Just curious. (No bites on the pistons I have yet, I suppose I should build a short block with these parts I have and sell that, or just keep it around for a spare if the stoker motor ever goes toes up.

 

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Well i stand corrected as i've never had a set of pauters in hand. The problem i most have is that the rods all come slightly larger then needed and have to be cut down and honed for the correct oil clearance. Most people will get a set of rods and just bolt them on, and 99% of the time they wont have the right oil clearance.

 

[IJ.]

Sponsored: That sounds a bit wrong to me....

You DON'T Adjust oil clearance by changing the Rod bores.

There is a set dimension to get the bearing crush needed then you change the bearing shells or crank journal size for Oil clearances.

 

[sponsored1]

Sponsored: That sounds a bit wrong to me....

You DON'T Adjust oil clearance by changing the Rod bores.

There is a set dimension to get the bearing crush needed then you change the bearing shells or crank journal size for Oil clearances.

Yes there is a dimension. Normally about .001 from the top to the bottom of the spec. You can change the rod bore to anywhere inside that spec to get the desired oil clearance.