Pictures of my new toy

DonS1mpson

Black Supramacist.
Mar 19, 2006
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Hey there.

I picked up my new 88 NA auto supra on Tuesday and now that some of the excitement has worn off, I'm looking to take some criticism.

The car has got 86,276 miles on the clock last time I checked, has had a recent headgasket change, alternator, battery and general service by the previous owner who was going to use it for motorsport usage until he decided he couldn't be bothered with an Auto.

The interior is in brilliant condition, no rips or anything of the sort and everything electrical bar the heater works.

Here's a few pictures:

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(left door)

And my personal favorite pic - Me pulling off for my first proper drive in my first car :biglaugh:

895959931_ca99d37c3e.jpg




I bought it for £190 or $385 which isn't too bad of a price considering that cars with seized motors go for that much.

Are the panels (esp rear arches) I've taken pictures of worth saving or should I look into getting some used ones off a donor car? I took it to a bodyshop and they said they'd have to fiberglass it, but the problem with this is that the bubbling will come back eventually, and I'm not looking for a quick fix...

Anyways, that's my car :)
 

suprahero

naughty by nature
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Aug 26, 2005
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If you can drive off in it then you got a great deal. You should be able to find about everything you need in the parts for sale section. Good luck.
 

DonS1mpson

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Mar 19, 2006
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MDCmotorsports said:
Time for some fiberglass on those rear fenders. Good buy!

But will the bubbling come back again like the body guy said? I don't exactly want to have to be fibreglassing the arch constantly, if so I'll use this car just as a beater and buy a car with a better body.

And the rust is only on one side, BTW. I've been given a quote of £200 $400 ish? To get all of the bodywork done
 

mkIIIman089

Supramania Contributor
Mar 30, 2005
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That rust looks pretty awful, if the outside is that bad I can't imagine what it looks like under the interior panels...

It was cheap though, LOL.
 

TurboFreak

NOBAMA
Jan 22, 2006
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Yeah I would take Colin's comment seriously. Look under the carpet and interior panels. Heres a pic of my latest(which was sold today as a parts car) Supra when I tore up the carpet....
sm_photo_missing.jpg
 
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DonS1mpson

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Mar 19, 2006
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Well, after seeing rust that bad, I had to rush down stairs and check my car out, again. I've pulled the trunk carpet back and everything looked in A1 shape, apart from something I noticed. The center part of the trunk, where you put the spare wheel is covered in a metal with a rough pattern, while the side parts of the trunk have a smooth pattern. I hope I explained that well enough.

What I'm trying to ask is should the trunk metal be all one piece of metal? I'll try and get some pictures, but I don't think I've got any spare AAs left.

Anyway

There pictures make the rust look really bad, but it's really not that bad. The inside of the arch is still pretty damn solid... any chance it could just be surface rust?

I bought this car with the intention of restoring it into one hell of a car, and I'd love to do it but...If I'm going to have to constantly going to have to be fiberglassing that bloody arch (the other one is perfect), then I might have to find me another one, which is a shame because it puts such a smile of my face when I'm in that driver's seat...

Oh yeah, and it's developed a ticking noise at idle and a tractor like sound between 1500 and 1800RPM. Any ideas what it could be (sounds like the sound is belt driven)
 

Kai

That Limey Bastard
Staff member
Crank Pulley Bolt.....

Also - one thing is, over here, theres a model of car (Vauxhall Astra Mk3) that's front fenders can be used as perfect patch panels for the supra - drivers side fender fits passenger side rear and vice versa - no fibreglass needed ;)
 

DonS1mpson

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Mar 19, 2006
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Thanks for that Kai. I thought it was the Crank pulley bolt, I just don't have the right tools to tighten it up :( Is it still safe to drive?

So, does astra fender trick completely replace the rear panel? Does it look any different?
 

fiyota

I ♥ Boost
May 3, 2006
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Get that crank pulley bolt torqued up asap... if it's loose you will wear down the keyway and that means you will have to replace the crank.. or do some serious patch work on it.
 

DonS1mpson

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Mar 19, 2006
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fiyota said:
Get that crank pulley bolt torqued up asap... if it's loose you will wear down the keyway and that means you will have to replace the crank.. or do some serious patch work on it.

Oh snap... Glad you told me that, today's the last time I push the car until I get that one sorted.

5 days into owning a 7M and enough stuff has broken to warrent me wanting a JZ series motor, hehe
 

mdr40z

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Mar 31, 2005
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DonS1mpson said:
Oh yeah, and it's developed a ticking noise at idle and a tractor like sound between 1500 and 1800RPM. Any ideas what it could be (sounds like the sound is belt driven)

Almost all of our valves tick, not usually a problem, from your explanation but if it's loud..... beware the dreaded rocking nod
 

DonS1mpson

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Mar 19, 2006
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mdr40z said:
Almost all of our valves tick, not usually a problem, from your explanation but if it's loud..... beware the dreaded rocking nod

I don't think it's rod knock. I unplugged the leads running from the spark plugs to the dizzy one by one, the noise was still there.

The noise disappears at around 2500RPM anyways, so I'm happy.

The ticking wasn't there when I got the car, that's why I'm so worried, and the tractor like sound at 1500 - 1800RPM has only recently started today, so I don't think the sounds are suppose to be there
 

DonS1mpson

Black Supramacist.
Mar 19, 2006
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OneJoeZee said:
If your crank pulley is loose, stop driving the car...

Way ahead of you there mate.

It's going to be hard going a few days without some MKIII lovin', god knows what you guys with rod knock and BHG survive.