Pics of the new EAGLE rods.

Justin727

Justin727

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Mar 31, 2005
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GPT/BILOXI, Ms.
www.crescentcitysupras.com
Well i ordered the new Eagle Rods! Ordered them from Sean @ Titanmotorsports! Thanks bud! I decided to post pics of them next to the stock rods since i havent seen anyone post them yet. the last pictures are a little blury because they were the first and well i ran outside grabbed the camera from the hot car and came in the cold inside. here we go! :icon_bigg

p52080_1.jpg


Side by side Comparo!
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Another Side by side comparo on their sides!
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Close up of the stock rod with the bearing still in it.
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Close up of the Eagle rod.
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These rods are lighter then stock rods. their qaulity is awesome. And I'm more then happy with the visual comparison. I'm sure they'll be able to hold 400-500hp daily with out a problem and also give me room to grow! I'm sure i'll get bored with that power over time anyways. Later All
 
Justin727

Justin727

T-virus infected
Mar 31, 2005
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GPT/BILOXI, Ms.
www.crescentcitysupras.com
Thanks! Yea i was looking at Pauter's as well then these new Eagles came out so i figured i'd jump on them! I was gonna shot peen the stockers and go from there but for just a little more I grabbed these up!
Shot peened recondition rods are good for 500hp. I bought these mainly because I do want plenty of room to grow and they were just a little bit more change then it would have costed me to do that to my stockers!
 
I

IJ.

Grumpy Old Man
Mar 30, 2005
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I come from a land down under
Even the Pauters aren't prohibitively expensive once you factor in having the stock rods resized rebushed shot peened and ARP bolts installed!
(All needed for a successful build I think)
 
H

Halsupramk3

Member
Apr 4, 2005
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Mississippi
looks great justin.

I had my stockers resized and destressed them myself and had them shotpeened and installed arp's. I think that cost about $100 to $130 or so.

How much were these? I would have liked to have some like this just for peace of mind.
 
Disco Stu

Disco Stu

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Apr 6, 2005
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Forth Worth
both without bushings of course... I have seen these in person and think they look very clean. I almost wish I could see the little Eagle logo from outside the engine;)
 
Adjuster

Adjuster

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Apr 8, 2005
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I think where the stock rods have failed was at high RPM and high HP numbers. (Like launching at 7000rpm on a large turbo engine.)

Also most stock rods seem to fail at the oil hole in the rod journal. (Not the pin bore hole.)
Do the Eagle rods have the oil hole on the rod bearing like the stocker? I know the Pauter ones do not, but have the hole on top like the stocker for pin oil. (I like that Eagle puts it in a lower stress area on the side in an area with more material.) I think not having an oil hole on the rod bearing area helps to keep oil in that bearing better, and should lead to fewer problems with spun rod bearings/knock issues. (Keep in mind that rod bearings are harder to oil than mains due to the rod journal throw distance from crank centerline. This rotating/centrifical force slings off the oil that has to lube your rod bearings, and I never liked the idea of helping that oil to escape by having the oil squirter holes on the stock rods.)

That being said, I have the Pauters, and like this Eagle option. (I've been told that for the stroker motor, any 6" rod will work as the stroker uses 327 SBC rod bearings anyway, and you can either use Honda pins, or SBC pins since the pistons are being done custom, you just have ROSS provide the pistons with the right sized pins for your rods.)

I've heard good things about the Eagle stuff. And the costs are pretty reasonable from what I've seen. (Too bad Eagle does not make a nice 3.4L stroker kit for the 7M and 2J engines. They would sell if the prices were anything like stroker kits for other motors I've seen advertised. They could also address a few issues higher HP engines have found.

1) Increase the crank oil hole sizes. (Larger drilled passeges.)
2) Forge the crank with windage in mind.
3) Forge the crank fully counter balllanced like the 7M one, but make it with thinner webs to match the lighter Eagle rods.
4) Have the option of a stroker 98mm throw, using SBC bearings, and 6" rods as outlined. 98mm stroke on 85mm bore is a very nice engine indeed. (Great for tourqe, and not too bad HP wise either with a very usable 7k redline limit.

Thanks for the pics.
 
Last edited:
gilberjj

gilberjj

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Apr 14, 2006
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Tacoma, WA
Adjuster said:
I think where the stock rods have failed was at high RPM and high HP numbers. (Like launching at 7000rpm on a large turbo engine.)

Also most stock rods seem to fail at the oil hole in the rod journal. (Not the pin bore hole.)
Do the Eagle rods have the oil hole on the rod bearing like the stocker? I know the Pauter ones do not, but have the hole on top like the stocker for pin oil. (I like that Eagle puts it in a lower stress area on the side in an area with more material.) I think not having an oil hole on the rod bearing area helps to keep oil in that bearing better, and should lead to fewer problems with spun rod bearings/knock issues. (Keep in mind that rod bearings are harder to oil than mains due to the rod journal throw distance from crank centerline. This rotating/centrifical force slings off the oil that has to lube your rod bearings, and I never liked the idea of helping that oil to escape by having the oil squirter holes on the stock rods.)

That being said, I have the Pauters, and like this Eagle option. (I've been told that for the stroker motor, any 6" rod will work as the stroker uses 327 SBC rod bearings anyway, and you can either use Honda pins, or SBC pins since the pistons are being done custom, you just have ROSS provide the pistons with the right sized pins for your rods.)

I've heard good things about the Eagle stuff. And the costs are pretty reasonable from what I've seen. (Too bad Eagle does not make a nice 3.4L stroker kit for the 7M and 2J engines. They would sell if the prices were anything like stroker kits for other motors I've seen advertised. They could also address a few issues higher HP engines have found.

1) Increase the crank oil hole sizes. (Larger drilled passeges.)
2) Forge the crank with windage in mind.
3) Forge the crank fully counter balllanced like the 7M one, but make it with thinner webs to match the lighter Eagle rods.
4) Have the option of a stroker 98mm throw, using SBC bearings, and 6" rods as outlined. 98mm stroke on 85mm bore is a very nice engine indeed. (Great for tourqe, and not too bad HP wise either with a very usable 7k redline limit.

Thanks for the pics.
Click to expand...

ouch...... a stroker motor would SEEM nice, but already having an undersquare motor would mean MONSTER stress on the cylinder walls. bigaaron touched on this. it is in his 5m destroker kit thread. he plans on revving to 8k. also, the 2j has stroker kits cause it has a smaller stroke and larger bore. that combo doesn't give as much torque (all else things equal), but allows for higher revs with less stress on the sidewalls. with the smaller stroke and larger bore, aftermarket companies were able to increase stroke while only createing a slightly undersquare engine.

on a side note, you can't hardly argue with the reliability of the undersquare 3.4 stroker after watching ryan woons supra of WOTM rev to 8.8k! undersquare shmundersquare!
 
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