painting the supra

[toy fanatic78]

Prime after the bodywork,bondo will stick to bare metal best(use 80 grit to prep the metal for bondo)
The purpose of the primer is to provide a consistent substrate for the paint,and to help fill minor imperfections.
Lacquer was used up until late 70's/early 80's for a lot of cars.It dries almost instantly,but can take 30+ coats to paint a car(no coverage,little film build)and has very little durability.

 

[supr88]

is tremclad rust primer good for doing the inside of my wheel wells? then coated with asphalt rubber coating? Where can I buy pqr-15 or similar, I live in calgary right now, so we have NAPA, MOPAC, auto value, bumper to bumper, maybe another one I'm forgetting, unfortunately no LORDCO which is only in BC.
I have some tremclad rust primer already, wondering if it would be any good applied to my rusty wheel wells and rust under the rear bumper cover if all the rust is ground off. Its hard to get into the pits though with a 3m disc or flap wheel, so all the rust isnt really eliminated, and tremclad says you cant put it on rust, I guess I just answered my own question there..
What about the stuff canadian tire sells, rust convert or something like that, says you can spray it on rust(break off the big pieces) and it forms a primer surface and eliminates the rust. Then coat it with some rubberized undercoating.

 

[toy fanatic78]

Looks damn near like mine when I started it.Found receipts for several paint jobs on it(all single stage white)there was areas with over 1/4" of paint build on them.Stripped the whole car to bare metal,then decided I wanted to go black,and got carried away. After I did the whole car black,I decided to add some blue pearl/candy to it over the black.It's close to finished,just been too cold to do paint work on it(just have to spray the underside of it now.)

 

[toy fanatic78]

is tremclad rust primer good for doing the inside of my wheel wells? then coated with asphalt rubber coating? Where can I buy pqr-15 or similar, I live in calgary right now, so we have NAPA, MOPAC, auto value, bumper to bumper, maybe another one I'm forgetting, unfortunately no LORDCO which is only in BC.
I have some tremclad rust primer already, wondering if it would be any good applied to my rusty wheel wells and rust under the rear bumper cover if all the rust is ground off. Its hard to get into the pits though with a 3m disc or flap wheel, so all the rust isnt really eliminated, and tremclad says you cant put it on rust, I guess I just answered my own question there..
What about the stuff canadian tire sells, rust convert or something like that, says you can spray it on rust(break off the big pieces) and it forms a primer surface and eliminates the rust. Then coat it with some rubberized undercoating.

POR-15 can be found online,and ordered right from the website
http://www.por15.com/POR-15-Rust-Preventive-Paint/products/1/
The starter kit should be enough to do what you have to do on your car,not bad price either,and comes with everything.

 

[supr88]

oh damn its called POR, ive been calling it PQR for how long now?? jeeez
I find it difficult to choose products for rust, because its going to come back no matter what, and there is so much sales pitch stuff and snake oils, really I believe its all the same in the end.

 

[supr88]

got yet another question for you. If im repaing those holes in the wheel wells with fiberglass and resin, should I just put it on over the bare metal or prime(or por) the metal first, rough it up, then glass over it.. basically will there be problems with moisture being trapped between the glass resin and metal?

 

[toy fanatic78]

got yet another question for you. If im repaing those holes in the wheel wells with fiberglass and resin, should I just put it on over the bare metal or prime(or por) the metal first, rough it up, then glass over it.. basically will there be problems with moisture being trapped between the glass resin and metal?

If your gonna use fiberglass,just use the por w/'glass mat,works better than the mat & resin for that.
I've had very good luck stopping/repairing rust w/the POR.It has saved my cressida(truly did stop the rust in its tracks,5 years ago,on my front fenders) and the stuff is unbelievably strong,survived tires rubbing for quite some time w/o wearing through.
The only other product that I've used that is comparable would be Chassis Saver,by magnet paints,but I still feel the POR is a superior product

 

[supr88]

was thinking some more(still too cold to do bondo or painting of any kind) about gettin the job done. I will need to rent a compressor, no money to buy one. I was thinking to make things easier, is there really any reason not to have the urethane primer mixed at the paint store and put in a spray can? Obviously for the painting I will rent a big compressor and buy a gun. Will probably also make it easier for the sanding process, and since its going to be sanded with 600grit or finer, does it really make a difference in the end? Will make it easier to do small sections, as I can just get a can and spray the one quarter that will need more work than the others, instead of mixing paint, going to rent the compressor, doing it and taking it back. Then doing it again next week for more primer etc...
is this making sense? or should I just do it with a gun. Will the end result be that much different?

 

[TuRbOdReAmZ87]

Damn. I love how the blue pearl looks over the black!! i kinda wanna paint my car black. Because my last supra was black. good luck with the paint job though.

 

[toy fanatic78]

was thinking some more(still too cold to do bondo or painting of any kind) about gettin the job done. I will need to rent a compressor, no money to buy one. I was thinking to make things easier, is there really any reason not to have the urethane primer mixed at the paint store and put in a spray can? Obviously for the painting I will rent a big compressor and buy a gun. Will probably also make it easier for the sanding process, and since its going to be sanded with 600grit or finer, does it really make a difference in the end? Will make it easier to do small sections, as I can just get a can and spray the one quarter that will need more work than the others, instead of mixing paint, going to rent the compressor, doing it and taking it back. Then doing it again next week for more primer etc...
is this making sense? or should I just do it with a gun. Will the end result be that much different?

Good primer is activated,and once it is it has a rather short shelf life.

Damn. I love how the blue pearl looks over the black!! i kinda wanna paint my car black. Because my last supra was black. good luck with the paint job though.

Thanks.It's kinda cool,as you walk around it the blue "follows" you,and fades back into black as you get farther away.

 

[supr88]

I know about the mixing of catalyst/reduced to paints to activate them, but somewhere in my great search of the internet I read that they can take that kind of primer or paint, mix it and put it in a can. didnt say anything about how long it would last for, or if they still even do it.
I need to go to the paint store and talk to the paint guy, Its a good idea to know the facts though before I go in there and get sold whatever the guy has behind the counter, instead of what I actually want! Some sales guys will do anything, really.

some more progress today, did some bondo work, and tried some phosphoric acid on the parts I couldnt reach with the wire brush. it worked just like the bottle said, but kind of messy work putting green chemical goo in hard to reach areas. then it says to rinse it with water, seems counter-intuitive, but it hasnt re-flashed with rust(yet).

thanks again for all your advice. I hope my paint job turns out as nice as yours! You really took the long road with that one, you must really like sanding and painting. I keep finding all these damn little dings as I work, I have a feeling this is going to be alot of work.

 

[toy fanatic78]

I know about the mixing of catalyst/reduced to paints to activate them, but somewhere in my great search of the internet I read that they can take that kind of primer or paint, mix it and put it in a can. didnt say anything about how long it would last for, or if they still even do it.
I need to go to the paint store and talk to the paint guy, Its a good idea to know the facts though before I go in there and get sold whatever the guy has behind the counter, instead of what I actually want! Some sales guys will do anything, really.

some more progress today, did some bondo work, and tried some phosphoric acid on the parts I couldnt reach with the wire brush. it worked just like the bottle said, but kind of messy work putting green chemical goo in hard to reach areas. then it says to rinse it with water, seems counter-intuitive, but it hasnt re-flashed with rust(yet).

thanks again for all your advice. I hope my paint job turns out as nice as yours! You really took the long road with that one, you must really like sanding and painting. I keep finding all these damn little dings as I work, I have a feeling this is going to be alot of work.

The biggest problem with primer like that would be that it takes quite a bit to prime an entire car(couple quarts typically)And I think it would be hard to get a good build with spray-bomb primer for the entire car,spot priming would be fine.I'll check at work this week sometime,we have a ready mixed spray-bomb primer,can't remember the brand name though(comes in a few variations IE: high build,etch,etc.)that works rather well,be hard to do an entire car with it,but it could be done.
Yeah,been a REAL long road w/my car,I'm insanely picky for one,for two I really enjoy paint/body/custom work.That ,and I never want to have to worry about rust blistering through from anywhere,hence the bottom being done that way too.Actually been out in the garage tonight spraying all the fender wells and underside of the floor pans(that SUCKS)I've got a build thread somewhere,but have not updated it in quite a while,think it was still gonna be black at the time.

 

[toy fanatic78]

U-POL is the brand of the spray bomb primer we use at work.