As for rod knock prevention
Take off the oil pan and wipe the shit clean make sure its dry and coolant free.
Take off the oil pan and wipe the shit clean make sure its dry and coolant free.
painful feeling after hg job
- Thread starter planemos
- Start date
Ok. I'm not concerned about removing the oil pan because I know I still have some black Toyota FIPG to seal it up again. But can I do that without pulling the block? Do I have to remove anything to get the oil pan off? It's an old car so the less things I have to disturb the better.
oldsking;1838546 said:
uh i beg to differ lol!!! heres a vid from my noob years of me in my first supra. week after a hg repair :biglaugh:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PDs91y1nYS0&list=UUTQgmvJOpFNJ1lFCIUnZVjQ&index=9&feature=plcp
got the car and it rod knocked like 3 months later. then bought a very nice condition 7mgte from a yard in oregon. threw that motor in but started to notice over pressure in the cooling system. figure i would have some fun with it till it pushed out the overflow. so much fun that i looped it on my way home from the bay in santa rosa at like 90mph spinning in circles till i slammed the gard rail. fuckin drove that shit home 200 MILES too after the crash to with the worst boost leak ever! car started to eat water so had to constantly add to it. was quite the saga. but after alll that i wanted to play around in my supra still. so i pulled it appart to find it had a mhg with arp bolts installed on a none surfaced block but looked to me like head was surfaced. took the head to my friends machine shop and they verified it wasn't warped at all. we checked the block to and it was true but had some pitting so thats most likely why the hg failed. i bought a felpro hg cleaned up the block and head surfaces and took my time assembling it. i went to 80ftlbs. 90 is pretty high for a composite hg. also dont use copper spray. the hg is made to seal just fine without copper spray and it will if you do everything correct. and take the fuckin turbo off and manifolds. you want to gently lay the head down. using a cherry picker to pull/install a head is fuckin sloppy unless you working on a trackor lol!!! i ran that motor in that supra till i got a new black 89 turbo with a bhg. then put it in that and drove the shit out of it for over a year till i got bored and built the engine. 7ms are tough. its just they can only take so many fuck ups. every one of us have been through hell with these cars but i look at it as a hobby/fun not a hassle. take your time and enjoy fixing the car. it will be worth it in the end. i agree you can get it running for not much. you bottom end is most likely find if you drove it so little. most ppl are so fuckin clueless they run their shit wayyyy longer than that before it gets to the shop for a hg repair :aigo:
Last edited:
I don't understand why you beg to differ....
You sound like you were agreeing with him...
And why do you think 90ft lbs is to much for a composite gasket. I never too seem to have many problems
You sound like you were agreeing with him...
And why do you think 90ft lbs is to much for a composite gasket. I never too seem to have many problems
cause thats just a week after hg repair....
my point was that if you repair something correctly you can beat on it right away lol
my point was that if you repair something correctly you can beat on it right away lol
lol I feel better now.
But is oil pan removal just that easy? Or do I have to lift up the engine and/or remove steering rack or what?
But is oil pan removal just that easy? Or do I have to lift up the engine and/or remove steering rack or what?
removing the oil pan is not exactly easy. your two options are to drop subframe or pull the motor. most will say pulling the motor is the easiest and i would agree. a lot of us can pull the motor in these cars crazy fast but that cause we've had them appart and don't have to fight anything like stripped bolts ects. but that all depend on access to tools and workspace. also how long to you want to run this motor? over the summer just to drift or is this your only car?
Don't rush to fix anything, you'll make mistakes that you wouldn't of normally done. Trying to make the drift event could of easily made this BHG fix your worst nightmare. Do it right the first time, check double check and recheck everything you thought you did properly, then when it's all said and done, check again.
Hey check thes picture out. This is how my headgasket is right now after my f-ed up repair job. So I SHOULD NOT be able to see the headgasket at all when installed right? BTW I got this hg directly from Toyota
Is that a direct indication to you that the headgasket is out of place? I thought that such a thing would be impossible since there are dowel pins and headbolts to align it all.
Is that a direct indication to you that the headgasket is out of place? I thought that such a thing would be impossible since there are dowel pins and headbolts to align it all.
So i had some photos in my phone that i just toiled a look at and in this one photo of the intake side of my motor you can see what appears to be the headgasket
Ok. So here is what i'm thinking right now. At first, no oil dripping from side of headgasket. Even after 2 short test drives. It never leaked. Then I went for a long test drive and boosted it hard. Then this leak developed from the side of the headgasket and also right then I discovered milky milky oil. Maybe I still need to retorque and try again? I mean try that before I tear out the head bolts...
Honestly I would just take it off and start over. I personally would not risk my engine but that's just me.
I know I still might. I guess most people do the initial torquing when there isn't a turbo and exhaust etc hooked up. Having those things pushing on the head might effect the torquing of the bolts. But it really doesn't take much of a hole to cause your engine to run like shit. The old headgasket was only like 2 pinholes in a water jacket. I'm learning something at least.
This isn't my only car. I could just save up for a new engine if I destroyed this one. I mean, what if I did it all again and only resurfaced the head and then it still wouldn't seal? Or what if I got a good headgasket seal and then it developed rod knock? What then? I would be spending so much dam money on it. Of course this is just the classic argument then isn't it. I could just rebuild what I have. Or I could get a newer engine and start with that.
What's the highest anyone has torqued ARP bolts?
This isn't my only car. I could just save up for a new engine if I destroyed this one. I mean, what if I did it all again and only resurfaced the head and then it still wouldn't seal? Or what if I got a good headgasket seal and then it developed rod knock? What then? I would be spending so much dam money on it. Of course this is just the classic argument then isn't it. I could just rebuild what I have. Or I could get a newer engine and start with that.
What's the highest anyone has torqued ARP bolts?
Do not go more then 90ft lbs that's the amount they were made for.
If you do it right it will seal as for rod knock development well as long as you keep clean oil in it you should be okay.
If you do it right it will seal as for rod knock development well as long as you keep clean oil in it you should be okay.
Listen to turbo habanero. You are only going to make it worse. Next time get the head machined. Retorquing shouldnt make any difference seeing as the leak has already started.
Thinking back. I figured out my mistake and why the head warped. Hopefully I can save other first timers from making this mistake.
When I went to pull of my head I had taken off all that I could think of and see which needed to be taken of in order to free it. I hooked up my engine hoist to the front hook on the intake mani side. I hooked up the other end to the back hook on the exhaust side. And I began to lift with the hoist. But, here is the mistake, the exhaust manifold support was still connected. I believe it bolts to the side of the block and under the turbo or turbo flange or whatever. So it us under there and hard to acually see if you don't look hard enough. So I lifted the hoist so much that the front suspension on my car was raising up. And that action right there is what made my head warp. It makes sense because the oil is leaking from under the front hook. I was tired and in a rush to get to a drift event. Big mistake. But now I have a solid plan thanks to this thread. I'm taking off the head. I can reuse the headbolts. Might even be able to reuse the headgasket. I will look for a new head or get this one machined. Actually it would need to be heated and bent back. I'm undecided if that is the best idea or if a machine shop can do such a thing. I'm finally back on track. I was at a loss there for a while.
When I went to pull of my head I had taken off all that I could think of and see which needed to be taken of in order to free it. I hooked up my engine hoist to the front hook on the intake mani side. I hooked up the other end to the back hook on the exhaust side. And I began to lift with the hoist. But, here is the mistake, the exhaust manifold support was still connected. I believe it bolts to the side of the block and under the turbo or turbo flange or whatever. So it us under there and hard to acually see if you don't look hard enough. So I lifted the hoist so much that the front suspension on my car was raising up. And that action right there is what made my head warp. It makes sense because the oil is leaking from under the front hook. I was tired and in a rush to get to a drift event. Big mistake. But now I have a solid plan thanks to this thread. I'm taking off the head. I can reuse the headbolts. Might even be able to reuse the headgasket. I will look for a new head or get this one machined. Actually it would need to be heated and bent back. I'm undecided if that is the best idea or if a machine shop can do such a thing. I'm finally back on track. I was at a loss there for a while.