my fan wirings is correct is pulling air to the engine i have two 14" in the inner rad site and one 8" in the other site of rad pushing air in. im working rewiring my cps if this should affect in something and just cleaned up my rad.
Overheating woes
- Thread starter 7MGFY
- Start date
Jaguar_5;1140751 said:
I run a tranny cooler for a reason. It keeps the two fluids (trans, and coolant) away from each other. And since neither run at the same temp, Its my preferance, and I have only had 1 auto tranny ever fail on me in the past (although I have only had 1 supra AT, normally run GM cars) And I personally prefer electric fans to the stock ones to lower the rotating mass weight (ie. free up weight and HP) But If he has another problem then nothing is going to fix it for good. And I thought stock was 180 deg off the top of my head, not 190 deg. Which is why I reccomended a lower temp t-stat. But JJ says im always wrong so Im out. I know nothing about cars evidently, so have fun. my car was scrapped cause im clueless about it according to JJ. Peace
Raw - You're never too old (or experienced) to learn something. Keep in mind this is the Tech Section...post wrong info and you will get called on it. You need to be sure of what you post, not "I think" or "off the top of my head".
You are wrong about the stat, and it's not just JJ telling you so...I am too. Stock is 190 deg (per the TSRM) and here's why a 180 stat is not a good idea: The ECU looks for coolant temps to be at least 176 deg F to transition from warm-up enrichment to normal ops for injector duration. A 180 stat on a cooling system with excess capacity can easily put the coolant temps below 176 degs...there's a thread going on about that right now (coolant temps at 170 deg with a 180 stat). The engine will run rich under these conditions and will be a bitch to tune.
BTW - above 210 deg coolant temps, the ECU pulls timing in an effort to prevent detonation.
You are wrong about the stat, and it's not just JJ telling you so...I am too. Stock is 190 deg (per the TSRM) and here's why a 180 stat is not a good idea: The ECU looks for coolant temps to be at least 176 deg F to transition from warm-up enrichment to normal ops for injector duration. A 180 stat on a cooling system with excess capacity can easily put the coolant temps below 176 degs...there's a thread going on about that right now (coolant temps at 170 deg with a 180 stat). The engine will run rich under these conditions and will be a bitch to tune.
BTW - above 210 deg coolant temps, the ECU pulls timing in an effort to prevent detonation.
SURUKO;1141435 said:
How are they installed? I know it can not be side by side as the raidiator does not have that much surface area.... On a 13.5" setup, the fans are already going a bit overboard and hence need to be staggered to fit (like the Flex-A-Lite 292, 27" setup).
Care to elaborate?
SURUKO;1142342 said:
rthan that is no good as the air will be coming in mostly through there. Path of least resistance applies to fluids and air flows.
the lose of power from a clutch fan is minimal. There are PLENTY of ways to make up the 5-10hp when you stick the clutch fan back on. < hint, hint
Going to have to state this all over again...
As you can't have perfect efficency in converting energy, in a system with electric fans it's converting mechanical to electrical, and then back to mechanical. There is power loss there.
"The rule of thumb is that the horsepower drain on the engine is twice the number of kilowatts produced. For example, if a 100-amp alternator is charging a 12-volt system at full capacity, it’s producing 1,200 watts, or 1.2 kilowatts. Therefore, it steals 2.4 horsepower from the engine."
One of these days I'm going to do a dyno run without my stock fan on just to prove this issue. It's not going to bea taking enough power to make a difference. It's like people talking about running electric waterpumps and electric everything else. Most of the time when an OEM maker uses an electric accesory it's because of packaging issues (FWD cars can't run a normal fan, ect). When a race car uses electic accesories, it's because they run them off a battery and completely unload the operation from the engine.
It's like people talking about using electric superchargers. Have you SEEN the size of the electric motors they use to test them? Seriously, you're not going to beat the laws of physics...
As you can't have perfect efficency in converting energy, in a system with electric fans it's converting mechanical to electrical, and then back to mechanical. There is power loss there.
"The rule of thumb is that the horsepower drain on the engine is twice the number of kilowatts produced. For example, if a 100-amp alternator is charging a 12-volt system at full capacity, it’s producing 1,200 watts, or 1.2 kilowatts. Therefore, it steals 2.4 horsepower from the engine."
One of these days I'm going to do a dyno run without my stock fan on just to prove this issue. It's not going to bea taking enough power to make a difference. It's like people talking about running electric waterpumps and electric everything else. Most of the time when an OEM maker uses an electric accesory it's because of packaging issues (FWD cars can't run a normal fan, ect). When a race car uses electic accesories, it's because they run them off a battery and completely unload the operation from the engine.
It's like people talking about using electric superchargers. Have you SEEN the size of the electric motors they use to test them? Seriously, you're not going to beat the laws of physics...
got new waterpump and the cps rewiring is almost done going to build new fan shroud then i gave it a try if its overheat again going to bhg to be sure is right i just put a felpro hg i think it is a good one but i have to be sure did anybody know if i retorque the head just to be sure can help me ?? :1zhelp: i been having problem with my timing i did the jumper thing set up my time to 10 go for a run and when i returned and just put the jumper thing again and check the timing is always in other number:1zhelp: ??? thats why im rewiring my cps then im going to be in a need of a good one mines had the wires almost broken can anyone help me ?????:1zhelp: :cry:
you re did the jumper after a drive and the timing was off?
or did you just hook the light up and look at it?
or did you just hook the light up and look at it?
i did it with the jumper after a run and the time was in other number thats is my question why ??:1zhelp:the bolt is rightly adjusted ,good plugs,good spark plug wires why is doing this to me??????:cry: :1zhelp:
only mod. is walbro fuel pump
::bhg::
only mod. is walbro fuel pump
::bhg::
Poodles;1142536 said:
I agree the power gain (if any) Is minimal. Mine is more of a history with those mounted to the water pump. I have had issues with them in misbalancing ( something broke a fan blade and threw the fan thru the rad) and had clutches go out and blow head gaskets, so with electric slim line fans I find I dont run into that issue. To close to rad to really have anything come into the engine bay and hit one, and if one goes out, im surely going to know. There is no fan clutch to worry about engaging. People that rely to heavily on electric parts often find that they fail before their mechanical counter parts. But in some situations its decent to run certain things off electricity. I prefer mechanical things for the most part (i hate tracing electrical problems) but when it comes to my cooling fans, I'll go electric. No electric water pump, hell I'd put a mechanical fuel pump on the car if i could. But also take into effect that if you are cutting weight and the fan drops weight (aprox 5 lbs) a single piece aluminum drive shaft (another 15lbs or so) light weight flywheel and so on, is the 2.5 hp loss of runnin an electric fan going to really make a huge difference in the total loss of weight in the rotating mass? I agree that the one on its own is really nothing major, but in conjunction with other things, it will make enough of a difference. And again JJ, sorry, i thought stock Tstat temp was 180. I didnt go open the book to be 100% sure. shoot me :aigo:
At least you admit it's personal preferance.
Most others try to call it an "upgrade" when it's anything but...
Most others try to call it an "upgrade" when it's anything but...
I'm glad you guys insist on the shroud - Going to get a new one Monday from the dealer.
I can be pretty stubborn and needed that point driven into my skull.
I can be pretty stubborn and needed that point driven into my skull.
rawmk3;1142836 said:
#1 - I'm not JJ
#2 - If you post in the Tech Section, you need to be 100% sure.
#3 - You are well on your way.
WhtMa71;1152594 said:
If you are intent on using Efans. Get a GOOD quality set that can actually pull some AIR.
2500 CFM is CRAP and those slim lines are CRAP. Either pay to play or stick with OEM where it is going to be more than enough unless you have some SERIOUS issues.