overheating? no water?

[product.sc]

i have a 87 supra with its original 7m-ge [48k miles only] and i have this problem where the water/coolant keeps flowing out. and since theres no water or coolant he engine tends to get the temp reading past red. i took off the thermostat thinkin it would fix it, but its still happening. i cant find out the problem, any input would help

thanks

 

[Finnon]

um how much water is there in the cooling system? you need to have it full. yours has probably got some major damage if you have been running it into the red zone. if i understand your post then a bhg would probably be the least of your worries

 

[Finnon]

ohh. buy a compression tester and see what readings you get.

and check the oil on the dipstick see if it has got any water droplets in it

and check the oil filler cap for emulsified oil

and look in the expansion tank see whats in there.

dont run the engine anymore apart from flicking it over for the compresion check.

 

[AJ'S 88NA]

Coolant keeps flowing out were? And Finnon is right, if you've been running it that way you've probably messed up a really low mileage motor.

 

[product.sc]

alright i will check those, i already ran a compression check and seems to be no leaking. i will get more info on the rest, thanks

and also to include before all this hapened it was misfiring with the 6th and 5th sparkplug wasnt firing. i fixed that though. the coolant/water keeps flowing out of the expansion/ resevor tank. i keep refilling it till full, or almost full and its always comming out.

and whats the bhg? :aigo:

 

[Finnon]

alright i will check those, i already ran a compression check and seems to be no leaking. i will get more info on the rest, thanks

and also to include before all this hapened it was misfiring with the 6th and 5th sparkplug wasnt firing. i fixed that though. the coolant/water keeps flowing out of the expansion/ resevor tank. i keep refilling it till full, or almost full and its always comming out.

and whats the bhg? :aigo:

you only fill the expansion tank (whitish plastic bottle) about 1 inch. its marked on the side min and max. only put enough in so its to the max level on a cold system.

a bhg is a blown head gasket. If your car continues to spit water out after you have topped the expansion tank to that level your car may have this problem.

replace the thermostat with a genuine toyota part.(theres a small plastic valve at one edge of the thermostat. make sure that its at the top when you fit it) then fill the cooling system with a 70/30 mix of distilled water and anti freeze (you need anti freeze in your system all year round as its a summer coolant and rust inhibitor aswell as an anti freeze)

you then need to bleed the system thouroghly. best way is to either park it on a hill facing upover or jack up the front of the car. remove the rad cap (if you havent all ready) then run the engine up to temp with the heaters on full. your aiming to get all the bubbles out of the system. this is to remove any possible airlocks.

after there are no more air bubbles (it will take some time) replace the rad cap lower the car and if need be top the expansion tank up to the max level

if as you say the compression readings were all good then see what happens after that.

if it still missfires remove the plugs and see what they look like.

make sure the leads are connected in the correct order.

 

[Finnon]

another good idea would be to keep an eye out for any pin hole leaks in any system pipes. they could allow air into the system and hence getting an air lock and spitting the coolant out. But it wont help matters at all over filling the expansion tank and not having a stat fitted

hth

 

[product.sc]

ohh no i already solved the misfiring, the sparkplugs were daed so i replaced them already. but illl look up the rest tonight. hopefully. wish me luck and thanks for everything so far.

 

[IJ.]

If it's been in the red a few times the head is annealed and is now junk

 

[Finnon]

ohh no i already solved the misfiring, the sparkplugs were daed so i replaced them already. but illl look up the rest tonight. hopefully. wish me luck and thanks for everything so far.

good luck mate. hopefully it will have been just an air lock. fingers crossd the head isnt toast now.

 

[Finnon]

this site may help you out.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=CO&P=1

 

[ForcedTorque]

If it's been in the red a few times the head is annealed and is now junk

IJ, Please define annealed for him. I personally don't know, but I will search. Maybe I will beat you back with it?


"Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure and improve cold working properties."

By this definition, would it not be a good thing??????

 

[suprarx7nut]

Probably would have been smart to pull over and park the car the first time it went *near* red and fixed it before driving it again.

 

[product.sc]

Probably would have been smart to pull over and park the car the first time it went *near* red and fixed it before driving it again.

oh i know, i think everyone is smart enough to know that, but the thing was, i thought i solved it so i ran it to check weither or not that i did. sadly it wasnt cause it went up fast, i could go about 2-5 miles before all of a sudden its in the red. so i waited till it went back down to continue driving back home...

 

[cuel]

You'd be lucky to get away with just a head gasket job. I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom end is damaged. Piston rings, rod bearings, and main bearings, aren't made to take that amount of heat. The oil breaks down rapidly as well, and the coolant that is most likely mixing with it isn't helping any of the afore mentioned parts.

Good luck...

IJ, Please define annealed for him. I personally don't know, but I will search. Maybe I will beat you back with it?


"Annealing, in metallurgy and materials science, is a heat treatment wherein a material is altered, causing changes in its properties such as strength and hardness. It is a process that produces conditions by heating and maintaining a suitable temperature, and then cooling. Annealing is used to induce ductility, relieve internal stresses, refine the structure and improve cold working properties."

By this definition, would it not be a good thing??????

FT: "Ductility: The property of metal which permits it to be reduced in cross sectional area without fracture. In a tensile test, ductile metals show considerable elongation eventually failing by necking, with consequent rapid increase in local stresses."

Basicly, the aluminum gets too soft to hold its shape. Especially under pressure, which is being applied by both combustion and head bolt torque. At least, that's how I understand it, although I could be wrong.

 

[Finnon]

there is a poss that your water pump could be knackered aswell. maybe worth checking that out aswell

 

[Frank Rizzo]

Even if the head only suffered localized annealing, most of the bolt/stud threads will be too soft to even hold a helicoil.

The metal loses ALL hardness and, like IJ said, is JONK

 

[OfnaRcR4]

This thread is lol.

 

[product.sc]

there is a poss that your water pump could be knackered aswell. maybe worth checking that out aswell

thanks for your inputs finnon, i already checked the water pump, seems to be fine but replaced it with another one just in case [already had one in inventory] so yeah idk when im actually gonna jump in the hood to check things out due to the hectic work for the end of senior year [highschool] :icon_neut

 

[ForcedTorque]

You'd be lucky to get away with just a head gasket job. I wouldn't be surprised if the bottom end is damaged. Piston rings, rod bearings, and main bearings, aren't made to take that amount of heat. The oil breaks down rapidly as well, and the coolant that is most likely mixing with it isn't helping any of the afore mentioned parts.

Good luck...





FT: "Ductility: The property of metal which permits it to be reduced in cross sectional area without fracture. In a tensile test, ductile metals show considerable elongation eventually failing by necking, with consequent rapid increase in local stresses."

Basicly, the aluminum gets too soft to hold its shape. Especially under pressure, which is being applied by both combustion and head bolt torque. At least, that's how I understand it, although I could be wrong.

Thanks for the explanation Cuel!(BTW..Love the Avatar)

But, why in real world applications do many people get away with having the head shaved, and slapping it back on, with little other work. I don't say this to argue with you, just trying to get good insight from someone I trust as very knowledgeable.