Anything? I am kinda experiencing the same deal right now. Did you ever change out the radiator?
overheating and other probs. help.
- Thread starter Godspeed
- Start date
i just got another radiator yesterday so i will be changing it out today and i will post the results.. i took it back to the shop and had them run the compression and it was between 150 and 160 on all cyl. so im guessing this is the last thing it could be.. i'll let you guys know later
im kinda having the same problem, my car was over heating and coolant was being pushed out the overflow tank, i took my car to a shop had it compression tested they were all between 145-160, then they did a block tester and there were no exhaust gases in the coolant, so that was good. the shop found that my turbo was pretty much toast so i got a new lipp boss turbo, that turbo is going on today.. we are hoping it was just the turbo causing this problem.. just some food for thought it could be turbo related
my turbo has less than 200 miles on it and i checked it today and its still solid no leaks and no smoking. once i get some other things done tomorrow i will let you guys know what happens.
Well I ran into an issue similar to your sputtering one just after I got my car. It turned out to be basically all the sensors located on the thermostat housing having bad wiring. Old wiring was cracked and really crappy. I would definatly check into that. For the guy who is having an overheating issue with a clean compression check, do u have electric or stock fan on your car? If you have the stock fan, is the shroud still on it? And if that is all there, have you tested the fan clutch to make sure it is working? A bad fan clutch will mean your not pullin enough air thru your radiator. For the one with the 14" fan and the 2 accessory fans, are they wired on a thermal switch, or are they controlled by a toggle? Are you sure your fans are in the correct orientation, Pullers? Are they pulling enough CFM thru the rad? When doing a compression test, you have to do it when the engine is hot. And if you have any fluids in the cylinder bores when you pull the plug for the compression test, then U have a blown head gasket. They needed to deck the block if you put a MHG on the car. And if they didnt then it was on you to make sure everything was done correctly before assembly. Always verify the work that has been done, before the engine is assembled. You could also have a clogged heater core too. Make sure to back flush and burp your cooling systems to make sure everything is flowing correctly. If they didnt clean the block correctly, you could possibly have a clogged cooling journal on the block, or anywhere in the engine compartment. But I would check the heatercore, Get a length of hose and bypass the heater core for now. If that works, you may be in the market to be replacing a heater core. Just a thought. And im guessing you have also checked your waterpump too. I cant remember if you said it was replaced or not. Chances are its your cooling system clogged somewhere if your not blowing white or blue smoke. (white being coolant, blue being oil)
you wana bet the turbo will cause it to over heat?? it caused my car to over heat cause it was burning coolant and leaking some coolant. just replaced the turbo and the car runs fine now.
Proof? I wanna see pics of the turbo to prove such a thing since the coolant passage in the CT is just a chamber and you'd have to crack the center cartridge for the coolant to leak.
My 89 turbo was overheating with 2 big electric fans going. I went back to the stock fan clutch and shroud and that solved the problem. As for the miss i have no clue
As I said, there is a few sensors on your thermostat housing, that caused mine to spit and sputter then die. It would run fine for a lil while, then stall, and fire back up on me. It ended up being bad wiring for the ECU temp sensor. I'll get some pics of what im talking about a lil later today. The wires are old, and often cracked and full of resistance. Put an ohm meter on there and test the resistance of the lines. Its not to terribly hard. The sputtering and dying could easily be a crappy electrical line somewhere sending false readings, or no readings at all. I put a temp solution on mine with some butt connectors for the time being till i pull my engine, and can rewire the harness and do it the right way. Its going to get soldered up, and heat shrinked, then wrapped with some high temp resistant wire cover to hopefully keep that from happening again.
Well I know after I fixed the wires that were broken, I have yet to have an issue of the car dying on me again. It ran fine for the 5-6 months I had it running after I fixed those lines. I have it on stands in the garage right now preppin to pull the motor to get it rebuilt. Damn thing has 175k on it. Time of a freshen up on it.
well after changing the radiator it still started heating up.... so i checked a few things and come to find out the electric fan was pushing instead of pulling...(i didnt do this lol) so after lookin at it for a few hrs i decided to remove the fan and replace it with 2 more. so now i have 2 14 in fans one one the front of the rad and one on the back... i also removed the ac condensor since it didnt work anyway so after this i drove the car and it seems to be doing fine... i guess since the first electric fan didnt have much of a shroud on it and it running in the wrong direction didnt do much. lol... so that was the prob the whole time.... figures... thx for the help guys.
Yes you needed puller fans. If you stagger the two fans, and have them both working together. IE the pusher in the front, and the puller in the engine bay, you should be cooling quite well. Simple things like the wrong oriented fan can cause a major problem for cooling. hope everything works out for you. You were having the problem cause you had a fan that was acting against the natural flow thru the rad. Pushing hot engine bay air into your rad, and pushing the cooler incoming air away from the rad too. Pushers are for outside the engine bay, and pullers are for in the engine bay. Just an FYI.
yeah i had that much figured out but thats the way the fan was wired up when i got it back from the shop and i had never thought to look to see which way it was flowing. lol im glad thats all it was though. now im in the process of fixing the heater core... yipeee lol
Godspeed;1139458 said:
Good luck with that dash removal. Im in the process of doing the same right now, so I can dump out the heating and cooling system and get rid of some other stuff, and start getting ready to make my new dash. ( wanna go a lil origional on it ) Atleast your fix was something simple.
the dash is the easy part i had it out in about 30 min. its just the friggin heater core pipes are garbage so i have to fix that first.
i think im going to just get a whole new core.. the long tube on the drivers side is all f#$% up and i gotta have heat for the winter...lol unless you got one you wanna get rid of. i have some ac parts and an electric fan lol..
