Just got my NGR BOV. Definitely looks great, very similar to the original GReddy Type S (which I have in the pics), except that it isnt garbage 
Orion's Projekt: Alexis
- Thread starter Orion ZyGarian
- Start date
Same as everyone else...the housing gets stripped when you look at it wrong. Also, the diaphragm is mediocre at best; not to mention $100+ and discontinued
Happy birthday to me! I got some wheels for a steal. Wasnt planning on getting any, but the Supra desperately needs new tires. For the cost of a new set, I got a lightly used set already mounted on these RPF1s! Didnt think the pics would upload this big...might need to fix that..
These have roughly 1 month of driving on them. I got them from a local guy who is friends with all my car friends around here and has been around forever; needed the money to pay for his friend's flights to his wedding. 18x9.5 +38 front, 18x10 +45 rear, 255/35 and 265/35
And after an hour and a half of applying elbow grease and little else:
Original Enkei sticker even. They all look this clean!
These have roughly 1 month of driving on them. I got them from a local guy who is friends with all my car friends around here and has been around forever; needed the money to pay for his friend's flights to his wedding. 18x9.5 +38 front, 18x10 +45 rear, 255/35 and 265/35
And after an hour and a half of applying elbow grease and little else:
Original Enkei sticker even. They all look this clean!
I'm bad at updating this, I know. The project is coming along extremely slowly, and I've only gotten busier as time goes on. This one seems like kind of an important/big update though.
I recently had Kirk at Boost Lab build me a custom turbo (he doesnt even have it listed on his site at the time of writing), so if you want one, feel free to contact me
It's called the BL360R. The turbo is based off of the Borg Warner S300SX3 (mine specifically a 177272), but with a billet compressor wheel. There's a 66mm (BL366R) as well that we put on our 1997 Project "Pit Viper", though it has an 11 blade compressor (Kirk went with a 7 blade design on mine for that ever-so-popular Borg sound), and though it puts down good power, it wasnt quite as responsive as I wanted for my own car. I had been eyeballing the S362, which is again, the same turbo frame essentially, but with the billet wheel from the EFR 8374 turbo (which I really wanted the most). Ended up pulling the trigger on this one instead, since it comes in at half the price of the EFR and very similar performance. At the time of writing, there's exactly <b>two</b> in the world, which makes me feel better with a sense of exclusivity (regardless of how arbitrary it is haha), and this is the only one spec'd out as it is. So, without further uhdoo, the important bits:
60mm compressor wheel, rated for however much power I make with it. S300 based CHRA and housings, .91 twin scroll A/R (I'll be running a quick spool valve; in my excitement, I forgot I wanted a 1.1 A/R). I also had him reflange the exhaust side V-band for a 3" instead of the weird Borg size that requires their fitment kit. I did this in case I wanted to go with an EFR in the future (which has a 3" v-band as well) and so when I custom make my exhaust, I could have an exact template I could repeat, should I want to start producing them for those interested. I also opted for a ceramic coated exhaust housing, as well as thermal dispersant coating on the CHRA and compressor housings, which is all part of my motto of "I'm not going to try to sell you on something I wont do myself." Does it work? I dont have hard data I can test it with, but other scientific studies have shown that it does, so it should cut down on any possible oil coking in the CHRA and hopefully reduce IATs a bit as well. Plus it looks cool (no pun intended)
Now for pics:
Some of the shiny bits are from a bit of oil from the CHRA during shipment, which is good. How many people install a brand new turbo without proper oiling, just to kill them immediately?
I recently had Kirk at Boost Lab build me a custom turbo (he doesnt even have it listed on his site at the time of writing), so if you want one, feel free to contact me
It's called the BL360R. The turbo is based off of the Borg Warner S300SX3 (mine specifically a 177272), but with a billet compressor wheel. There's a 66mm (BL366R) as well that we put on our 1997 Project "Pit Viper", though it has an 11 blade compressor (Kirk went with a 7 blade design on mine for that ever-so-popular Borg sound), and though it puts down good power, it wasnt quite as responsive as I wanted for my own car. I had been eyeballing the S362, which is again, the same turbo frame essentially, but with the billet wheel from the EFR 8374 turbo (which I really wanted the most). Ended up pulling the trigger on this one instead, since it comes in at half the price of the EFR and very similar performance. At the time of writing, there's exactly <b>two</b> in the world, which makes me feel better with a sense of exclusivity (regardless of how arbitrary it is haha), and this is the only one spec'd out as it is. So, without further uhdoo, the important bits:
60mm compressor wheel, rated for however much power I make with it. S300 based CHRA and housings, .91 twin scroll A/R (I'll be running a quick spool valve; in my excitement, I forgot I wanted a 1.1 A/R). I also had him reflange the exhaust side V-band for a 3" instead of the weird Borg size that requires their fitment kit. I did this in case I wanted to go with an EFR in the future (which has a 3" v-band as well) and so when I custom make my exhaust, I could have an exact template I could repeat, should I want to start producing them for those interested. I also opted for a ceramic coated exhaust housing, as well as thermal dispersant coating on the CHRA and compressor housings, which is all part of my motto of "I'm not going to try to sell you on something I wont do myself." Does it work? I dont have hard data I can test it with, but other scientific studies have shown that it does, so it should cut down on any possible oil coking in the CHRA and hopefully reduce IATs a bit as well. Plus it looks cool (no pun intended)
Now for pics:
Some of the shiny bits are from a bit of oil from the CHRA during shipment, which is good. How many people install a brand new turbo without proper oiling, just to kill them immediately?
I like the choice of the turbo. I went with the standard S366, with the .91 twin scroll housing and kept the odd sized Borg V-Band so I can run a 4" downpipe.
Do you think the thermal dispersant coating on the compressor housing is better than ceramic coating? I was think the ceramic would help keep heat out rather than have to dissipate it.
Do you think the thermal dispersant coating on the compressor housing is better than ceramic coating? I was think the ceramic would help keep heat out rather than have to dissipate it.
How much would 1 of those turbos run? I love the bw and would love to have one with a billet wheel later down the road.
Prism11;1955389 said:
I like the S366, but it's a bit big for my goals. I'm building my entire car around mid range power (without killing top end) and throttle response. I know much of the waiting for boost threshhold with the billet 66mm was that the '97 was an auto, but I still think I should do well enough with a billet 60mm. Lots of people ask me how much power I plan on making. The truth is, I'll be happy with however much I make. I always had a torque goal in mind for this car, of 450-500 ft lbs or so, 500 being an optimistic number. I guess we'll see!
I do think the thermal dispersant coating is better. The temperature inside is going to be more than outside, especially with the vented hood I plan on running. A ceramic barrier will just make work harder for the intercooler.
hvyman;1955416 said:
PM'd
Orion ZyGarian;1955535 said:I like the S366, but it's a bit big for my goals. I'm building my entire car around mid range power (without killing top end) and throttle response. I know much of the waiting for boost threshhold with the billet 66mm was that the '97 was an auto, but I still think I should do well enough with a billet 60mm. Lots of people ask me how much power I plan on making. The truth is, I'll be happy with however much I make. I always had a torque goal in mind for this car, of 450-500 ft lbs or so, 500 being an optimistic number. I guess we'll see!
I do think the thermal dispersant coating is better. The temperature inside is going to be more than outside, especially with the vented hood I plan on running. A ceramic barrier will just make work harder for the intercooler.
PM'd
Seems backwards to me Lonnie, Keeping the Heat in the Turbine Housing and dumping it out through the Exhaust will have Less of an effect on the Compressor side and Charge pipes than the Radiant heat generated by the Turbine housing in the engine bay heating everything anywhere near it Vents or not...
Be interesting to check it with an IR Gun once running and compare temps to a simular car with a Ceramic Coated Turbine housing.
On my Cars I ran Ceramic with a coat of TurboX over the top to stealth it up a bit.
Ian, it has both sides though! Comp housing with the dispersant, turbine with the barrier. If nothing else, I like the looks of it, and again, not going to try and convince people to buy it without opting for it myself. I'm not honestly expecting big gains (you dont really see too many instances of people doing this enough for it to be dramatic), but if nothing else, I can fool myself into thinking it works beautifully. I'm still considering running some sort of heat shield to separate the two as well, perhaps some sort of dual purpose heat shield/turbo mount to reduce stress on the manifold.
I'm nowhere close to intercooler setup mounting etc., but I do plan on trying the coating on there as well. I would expect bigger gains from that than from the compressor
I'm nowhere close to intercooler setup mounting etc., but I do plan on trying the coating on there as well. I would expect bigger gains from that than from the compressor
Very pretty turbo.
I'm planning on adding an upper turbo support as well, using two empty holes on the upper part of the cylinder head.
I'm just paranoid about all that weight hanging out, off the side of the head, and I don't want engine and exhaust movement to strain the manifold bolts.
I'm planning on adding an upper turbo support as well, using two empty holes on the upper part of the cylinder head.
I'm just paranoid about all that weight hanging out, off the side of the head, and I don't want engine and exhaust movement to strain the manifold bolts.
supraguy@aol;1955891 said:
Lol thanks. And yes, I'm a sucker for little things like turbo support. Whenever you see batshit insane rally cars and the like, you can always tell the ones with the most attention to detail. I've been thinking of something mounted to the passenger side strut tower bolts to reduce stress on the turbo/manifold setup, but havent given it too much further thought yet. It has to be able to resist a ton of heat, cut down on vibration, and not end up simply adding stress from a different direction. I've been thinking something that attaches to the CHRA drain perhaps.
Doat;1955894 said:
Since having the MkIV in the garage next to the MkIII, I have found myself truly a MkIII guy. There are many things the MkIV did well or better, but I still prefer the MkIII. Even little things like full size spare, hood struts, boost gauge TEMS (though long inoperable now)...little things that werent included on the MkIV
The RPF1s I practically stole and have been a dream for me since I first learned of the Kosei K1 TS wheel almost 10 years ago now. They look beautiful off the car, so I'm sure they look great on the car. What I'm attracted to most about them is the weight and quality though
I wouldn't set up any support for the turbo that wasn't attatched to the block or head. The engine moves in relation to the shock towers, so you can't tie in there.
It would actually be a stress point rather than a cure.
It would actually be a stress point rather than a cure.
Why not copy what Toyota did with the 7M and CT26 and use a support bar that attached to the block and bolted up to the turbo? Like supraguy said it would be better to attach the turbo support to the motor rather than a stationary place like the chassis because the engine moves and the turbo is obviously attached to the engine, so it's better if the support is on the engine so it supports it when there is movement.
Of course...very good points. Obviously I havent given the final idea a whole lot of thought yet. I'll have to see how the wastegate is mounted and routed
Been a little too long since I've updated this thread. Havent had much to report on lately, just been keeping busy with work and figuring out the game plan of my build. It tends to get more and more serious as time goes by, so I have a two stage plan now.
Anyways, here's the latest. Took off the front bumper and everything:
Disassembly has begun. This engine has always started when I've tried it. Always. This car has never left me stranded, and is the only car I haven't had to have towed. It is my favorite car of all time. Now it is time to start with a fresh engine and begin the restoration process. This engine has never left me stranded. It has always started, even after sitting for years with old gas. I can still turn it over by hand too. I understand why people dislike 7Ms, but the hatred is misplaced... It will still be a very slow process, but this will be a big step.
7M is out! I'm very happy with how easily both the transmission and engine rotate by hand. I do think the factory clutch system is a little dumb with the snap rings and such however.
Sorry some pics are blurry. Trying to keep my phone clean and steady
I was happy to see that what I was told 9 years ago was true. The car really did come with a 4 puck unsprung ACT clutch. It's still a solid piece, and even though it's used, if someone is interested, I would have no problem selling it. I was careful to not touch or get the friction surfaces dirty. That said, this was the clutch I learned to drive manual on.
And as she sits now. Front end is all off
Ive never had a car that needed a powerwash as bad as this one. Can you tell where I ran open turbo...?
This update is also particularly special for the Mk3 world. This is the last brand new tail light. The center section and right side has been discontinued for a while...and now the left side is too. The lenses and individual parts have also been discontinued as well, else I wouldve jumped on
I wasnt sure how it would blend in with the complete assembly I already have on my car, but if anything, the new taillight matches the center section better. I think the color is slightly off in the picture, in that the one on the car doesnt look that far off from the center, and it certainly isnt dark enough to be a JDM one. I prefer USDM lenses anyways.
Honestly, what I really want to do is find a way to replicate this lens. I really want to do a custom LED conversion, but no matter what I end up doing, this is one of the last perfect lenses, and I would be much happier having extras I can experiment on, or at least have in case something goes wrong.
My front turn signals might as well be brand new as well, and I plan on giving them the same treatment. I think theyre easier to find in good shape though, since theyre slightly more protected.
Anyways, here's the latest. Took off the front bumper and everything:
Disassembly has begun. This engine has always started when I've tried it. Always. This car has never left me stranded, and is the only car I haven't had to have towed. It is my favorite car of all time. Now it is time to start with a fresh engine and begin the restoration process. This engine has never left me stranded. It has always started, even after sitting for years with old gas. I can still turn it over by hand too. I understand why people dislike 7Ms, but the hatred is misplaced... It will still be a very slow process, but this will be a big step.
7M is out! I'm very happy with how easily both the transmission and engine rotate by hand. I do think the factory clutch system is a little dumb with the snap rings and such however.
Sorry some pics are blurry. Trying to keep my phone clean and steady
I was happy to see that what I was told 9 years ago was true. The car really did come with a 4 puck unsprung ACT clutch. It's still a solid piece, and even though it's used, if someone is interested, I would have no problem selling it. I was careful to not touch or get the friction surfaces dirty. That said, this was the clutch I learned to drive manual on.
And as she sits now. Front end is all off
Ive never had a car that needed a powerwash as bad as this one. Can you tell where I ran open turbo...?
This update is also particularly special for the Mk3 world. This is the last brand new tail light. The center section and right side has been discontinued for a while...and now the left side is too. The lenses and individual parts have also been discontinued as well, else I wouldve jumped on
I wasnt sure how it would blend in with the complete assembly I already have on my car, but if anything, the new taillight matches the center section better. I think the color is slightly off in the picture, in that the one on the car doesnt look that far off from the center, and it certainly isnt dark enough to be a JDM one. I prefer USDM lenses anyways.
Honestly, what I really want to do is find a way to replicate this lens. I really want to do a custom LED conversion, but no matter what I end up doing, this is one of the last perfect lenses, and I would be much happier having extras I can experiment on, or at least have in case something goes wrong.
My front turn signals might as well be brand new as well, and I plan on giving them the same treatment. I think theyre easier to find in good shape though, since theyre slightly more protected.
I changed my bulbs to LED towers from Superbrightleds.com and absolutely love them they have that LED brightness and response but it looks stock. Every LED conversion I've seen is too busy or over done and it makes it look cheesy or cheap. I'd say just change the bulbs to LEDs and mod your lamp failure module and enjoy.
Theyre certainly a great resource, and where I planned on sourcing stuff anyways. I agree with you though, and that's why I wouldnt just send out my lights to be done by some person and say "hey, do LEDs." I dont want to see obvious LED bulbs, I want it to blend nicely and seamlessly, which makes it much tougher. I think it wouldnt be too difficult for the corner lights in the front, but I'd have to come up with some sort of design that fits the lens, maybe updates it a bit, but still uses the stock look. What I mean by that is nothing like the Hiro light covers or FC taillight round lights.
Basically what sold me is this article:
http://jalopnik.com/heres-how-chrysler-crams-a-ton-of-leds-in-the-back-of-1464314493
I fully expect this to me incredibly difficult to pull off properly, but if I can, it would certainly be breathtaking
Basically what sold me is this article:
http://jalopnik.com/heres-how-chrysler-crams-a-ton-of-leds-in-the-back-of-1464314493
I fully expect this to me incredibly difficult to pull off properly, but if I can, it would certainly be breathtaking
It would be pretty difficult to make it look like that for our car also it works well for those kind of cars I don't see it working well for our cars since you will need like 6 horizontal lines for each light then the reverse lines and turn signal lines it just looks weird to me but it can be done well I think I've only seen one LED conversion done well.