only 200hp... sigh what else can i do?

[shaeff]

heh, i still must be either A) dumb (quite possibly, haha) or B) missing something.

you stated:

no youre right its not, he said it was a modified t3 @ 10-12psi. airflow is airflow though right? shouldnt make a difference

from what i understand, 10psi on the ct, is NOT the same as 10psi on a different turbo (read: larger). now, in all honesty, i'm not that intelligent when it comes to turbos, so please bare with me! everyone's gotta learn!

what threw me off, is that you stated the boost of the t3, then stated airflow is airflow, when the AMOUNT of air being pushed by a t3 at 10psi, is different from the amount of air being pushed by a ct26 at the same boost level. (i understand it'd be about the same at those boost levels, save for in the upper RPM range)

did i miss something? or am i just plain off base. as far as i'm concerned, airflow is not airflow if it's airflow from a different turbo.

i'm here to learn, just like everyone else.

-shaeff

 

[IHI-RHC7]

You're just dumb Sheaff.




Nah, I think what was said was misleading, although corect by what he meant to say. The ecu reads airflow, 10 psi gets changed into some frequency, and that times the rpm plus corection for temp and barometric pressure yields and airflow number and an equivalent fuel supply. That T-3 clearly moved more air than a CT, based on the dyno. However it also sucks down low.... Interesting. Our Ct was pushing 380 ftlbs of torque at 3 grand. So 20 psi from a CT is in fact more potent than 10-13 psi from a T3 down low, but it looks like the T3 keeps up the pace towards redline. I'd be happier with the stock power curve, but that's me.
Bottom line a different turbo is a different turbo. In order to try and compute psi to psi and flow to flow, you would have to hold all other variables, heat, moisture, volume (yeah it's 3 liters every two cranks) and pressure the same, then compare karmann numbers. So basically when someone asks about their Ct-26 and someone says it should be making this, since this T3 did it. It's useless misinformation.
Cheers.

 

[shaeff]

alright, then! that's a bit more clear. thanks!

-shaeff

 

[wingman]

i'm a dummy when it comes to turbos....but 10psi at 100CFM is a whole different thing than 10psi at 200CFM

pressure doesn't equal volume...it takes a lot less air to make 10psi in a 1" cube than it is to make 10psi in a 1' cube. Now just figure those cubes as everything from the compressor to the downpipe, and how much air it takes to fill it at 2000RPM and 6000RPM. If your turbo can't pump enough air at higher RPM, it'll drop off, thus the reason you get a bigger turbo. If 10psi out of a small turbo kicked out as much air as a massive turbo at 10psi, I'm sure we'd all be running around with snails the size of the apple I'm eating now

 

[diy guy]

I think we're arguing two different things . yes, i know that 10psi from turbo "x" is the not the same as 10psi from turbo "y" (no pun intended there hehe). when i said it "shouldnt make a difference," i was referring to air/fuel ratios, not power output.

so again, our airflow based fuel injection would be the same for each of the turbos at the same airflow. the graph may have looked different, little more low end and a sharper drop off with the stock turbo, but air/fuel ratios would have been the same for as much airflow as the stock afm can read.

if toyota used map sensors instead, a different turbo would require recalibrating the fuel map.

 

[shaeff]

yeah, i gotcha. i didnt catch where you were talking about airflow based fuel injection. just a misunderstanding, i suppose! thanks all, for clearing it up!

-shaeff

 

[MKIIINA]

wow this thread when really off topic. sorry to the thread creator. thanks guys for the info and to everyone who caught that it wasnt a dyno of a stock ct26 once he gets a DP and test pipe (cough boost controller) well return and let people guess again at the turbo

 

[NashMan]

cheak your timing

 

[A70HIRO]

i called up a local shop that is pretty known for their tuning and building high HP cars. They said they can't tell exactly what it is, and they said if i'm running too rich, which the place i dyno'd it at said i am, to get a FPR, then they said to get a Test Pipe as well. I was looking up FPR's and went on suprastore, which one should i get, 6 ver. or 10 ver.?

 

[siman]

WOW! Your running N/A power there buddy!

Somethings wrong with your car.

How much BLACK smoke was coming out of your exhaust pipe? I cannot imagine running THAT rich to soak up 50+hp at the wheels!

Is your motor REBUILT or is it a 150+K mile clunker with mods slapped on it after a hard life through 5 owners?

 

[A70HIRO]

i am the 3rd owner. it has 124K on it. i think i have a compression tester at work, i might just have it take the test. What numbers should they be at on all 6? where should the AFR be around as well? cause then i can look at my turbo timer and see what my AFR is.


* is it possible for a Dyno Machine to be liek out of calibration or something? haha maybe it wasn't reading right... lol

 

[diy guy]

yeah, its possible, and its also possible to set it up wrong. what type of dyno was it?

dont rely on your turbo timer for afr. it uses your stock narrowband sensor which has very little resolution on either side of 14.7afr. its really only good for measuring stoichometric ratio.

what i'd do is try a different dyno, preferably one with a/f readings.

 

[spinningheadboy]

Lets say that a healthy stock 7mgte will make 185-220 rwhp on various dynos. I've read many posts on stock outputs and that is a reasonable stock range.

Here is one example..... my 1991 Turbo automatic with 45,000 miles on it at the time. Mods were a K&N air filter, everything else stock, 80 degrees and at 2500 feet above sea level. 5psi on the stock gauge.

CWD
Boise