One-piece aluminum drive shaft...

westonboege

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May 25, 2005
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I put the aluminum driveshaft on and noticed the difference immediately. When you let the clutch out barely have to give it gas... the only reason i got it is because the stock ds was shot... u joints were bad and the carrier bearing was junk. And it weighs a ton compared to the alum. ds. A good mod if you really need it... but i prob wouldnt have done it for a while if my ds was still good... but it was well worth it.
 

siman

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When I say full boost, that doesnt mean 7psi.....I am going off the 8psi mark....I am around 10 If I could guess by my Kg/cm ( or whatever the level of measurement) of my blitz gauge.....pegs right below 1bar....which is 14PSI.

I am at full boost ( around 10 psi) at 3500rpms....I am at 7(near stock) psi around 2500.....

And I DO have full 3" STRAIGHT THROUGH piping.....I have the 3" SS elbow, 3" megan DP, 3" piping, 3" turbo muffler.....and the high flow HKS intake.

all on a FRESH rebuild that runs like a charm and has perfect compression across the board!

The once peice DS did do alot for the low end litteral grunt.....I can really tell a difference on how fast the tires gain speed and get the car off the line in general.....it just feels DIFFERENT in a good way!


Its seriously hard to explain over the internet.....but if you get one and go....you will know exactly what I am trying to elaborate.

-Jonathan
 

zurud

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Apr 10, 2005
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There must be a reason why Toyota put 2 piece dirveshaft there in the first place. Its cheaper to make 1 piece rather than 2 piece.
741085_9.jpg
 

Eriol

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Mar 31, 2005
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zurud said:
There must be a reason why Toyota put 2 piece dirveshaft there in the first place. Its cheaper to make 1 piece rather than 2 piece.
741085_9.jpg

I've seen some discussion that it was there for noise absorbtion... "noise, vibration, and harshness..."

One of my rear wheels is slightly out of alignment, and it has become a bit more noticeable since I put my new DS in.

BTW, Zurud: I like those rims -- I've always wondered how that style of rim would look on our cars. And I want to know where you got the front lip!
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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Eriol said:
I've seen some discussion that it was there for noise absorbtion... "noise, vibration, and harshness..."

One of my rear wheels is slightly out of alignment, and it has become a bit more noticeable since I put my new DS in.

BTW, Zurud: I like those rims -- I've always wondered how that style of rim would look on our cars. And I want to know where you got the front lip!
They look a bit like what I have on mine :)!
(On Topic: NVH is what I've been told and something about at high speed a single piece tends to whip)

 

Eriol

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Mar 31, 2005
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IJ. said:
They look a bit like what I have on mine :)!
(On Topic: NVH is what I've been told and something about at high speed a single piece tends to whip)


Whip? How does that work?

As for the pic, cool. I've never seen those side-view mirrors before, is that an Australian/JDM thing or are they aftermarket?
 

IJ.

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Eriol: They're stock ADM mirrors ;)!

With universal joints they travel in an eliptic path, at a certain speed they get a touch out of synch and this can be felt as vibration.

Is seems to be worse/more pronounced on a long shaft so most car makers put a CV joint in the middle of the shaft (we got another uni).

Our cars run quite low diff gears and a healty overdrive so the shaft speed is quite fast so I guess it's a problem. (Old domestic V8's here had tall diff gears and a LONG one piece shaft that spun at low speeds and it was never an issue)
 

encomiast

boosted kraut
Mar 31, 2005
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I guess those resulting vibrations could adversely affect the durability of the drive shaft and the parts connected to it?
if this really is an issue, I'll have to re-think about getting a one-piece DS :(

BTW those mirrors are EUDM too :p
 
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IJ.

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Econ: If you were doing sustained high speed running yes I'd say it would kill parts fairly quickly, The slip yoke on the driveshaft runs in a plain bearing and I think that would be the first to suffer followed by uni joints.

I stayed 2 piece after talking to my driveshaft specialist.

A common misconception seems to be "You get more HP with a one piece shaft" this is about as wrong as wrong can be.

Mods to lighten rotating mass can't "add power" they will change the moment of inertia so the car will accelerate sooner so feels more powerful.
 

Eriol

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Mar 31, 2005
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IJ. said:
Our cars run quite low diff gears and a healty overdrive so the shaft speed is quite fast so I guess it's a problem. (Old domestic V8's here had tall diff gears and a LONG one piece shaft that spun at low speeds and it was never an issue)

Hehe... LOL -- it's like Top Gear of the Holden Monero: "Here I am, doing 60 miles an hour in top gear. The engine is turning over at 1,500rpm. 1,500 -- it's idling! You fat ozzie slacker!"
 

encomiast

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Mar 31, 2005
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IJ. said:
If you were doing sustained high speed running yes I'd say it would kill parts fairly quickly
if 200-250 kph is "high speed", then I'll have to ditch the idea of getting a one-piece driveshaft.
thanks for mentioning this issue, you probably saved me quite some hassle and money :bigthumb:

now who's gonna build us a two-piece lightweight driveshaft? :p
 

IJ.

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Yeah it was a bitch to get rolling but once it was going it was fun! :)

Used to freak friends out dropping back to 1st at highway speeds!
(It had a 2 piece shaft with a centre bearing and a CV joint)
 

Squid699

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Mar 30, 2005
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siman said:
When I say full boost, that doesnt mean 7psi.....I am going off the 8psi mark....I am around 10 If I could guess by my Kg/cm ( or whatever the level of measurement) of my blitz gauge.....pegs right below 1bar....which is 14PSI.

I am at full boost ( around 10 psi) at 3500rpms....I am at 7(near stock) psi around 2500.....

And I DO have full 3" STRAIGHT THROUGH piping.....I have the 3" SS elbow, 3" megan DP, 3" piping, 3" turbo muffler.....and the high flow HKS intake.

all on a FRESH rebuild that runs like a charm and has perfect compression across the board!

The once peice DS did do alot for the low end litteral grunt.....I can really tell a difference on how fast the tires gain speed and get the car off the line in general.....it just feels DIFFERENT in a good way!


Its seriously hard to explain over the internet.....but if you get one and go....you will know exactly what I am trying to elaborate.

-Jonathan

I'm not stupid, I know what you meant by full boost. You did say 10psi before, so I figured thats what you meant. Still I hit 10psi before or right at 3000rpm and that's with an upgraded CT........

I wasn't saying you didn't have any other upgrades, merely saying it IS possible if you put the car on the dyno and tune.

I seem to remember a thread about one piece DS's either right before or after the crash where there was some discussion as to whether the one piece actually helped with rotational mass or not. If you feel an improvement - good for you, but I'm still not convinced that a one piece is advantageous as many would proclaim. As said in the thread already, the two piece does serve a purpose for noice and vibration reduction. A one piece DS on a Supra running 3.91 rear gears and a .75 reduction overdrive will be spinning really fast and any imbalance will be felt very quickly.
 

siman

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Yeah, I have had my car running with the 1pc DS for over 5 months now.....and taken the car to 135ish ( maybe touched 140 without looking)...and did not feel anything out of the ordinary.

IJ is just freaking people out about the eliptical whip scenario. Its a rarity.

The reason Toyota from the factory put in the 2 pc is becuase of noise reduction and cost. The bearings are CHEAP to replace or make for toyota...and the DS themselves are just steel.....with smallish endlinks....

Some people really do think that Toyota built this car like a supercar back then eh? NO, they cut corners. And the 2pc DS was one of them......

Squid699, Your loss.

-Jonathan
 
S

SupraSith

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My car is a daily driver and I don't think I've ever even had it over 100 mph. lol. The only reason I was considering the 1 pc Alum DS was to increase throttle response & acceleration. I've already upgraded the air filter, exhaust (3" straight thru), flywheel and clutch. Thought this might be the next logical step. Assuming I won't cause other problems in the future.
 

rcdsupra

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May 15, 2005
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There's no problem just a bunch of babies on here!!!! I'm getting an aluminum driveshaft and I have to drive in traffic everyday about 20 miles each way. I go over 100 though on a daily basis aswell.(if I don't I feel I haven't done my car justice) But I want the fastest revving engine I can have. I would get one if you want one. They are made well.
 

IJ.

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Mar 30, 2005
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By "Freaking people out" If Simple means I'm actually giving facts based on reality and physics yeah I guess I am!

I said it's rare to actually have problems and even then it's only under sustained high speed running so in a DD it shouldn't ever be an issue.

As for a 2 piece being cheaper to make get a grip anything that uses more parts is more expensive to produce no matter what Simple says with his minutes of experience.

I'm done with this thread as always Simple will convert it to shit in a few posts with his lack of understanding of the basics.

Sorry for trying to give a balanced perspective.
 

encomiast

boosted kraut
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rcdsupra said:
There's no problem just a bunch of babies on here!!!! I'm getting an aluminum driveshaft and I have to drive in traffic everyday about 20 miles each way. I go over 100 though on a daily basis aswell.(if I don't I feel I haven't done my car justice) But I want the fastest revving engine I can have. I would get one if you want one. They are made well.
I guess just pushing it to 100+mph for a short time and letting off again is not that critical, as IJ was referring to sustained high speed driving.

I often have the possibility to go 130+mph continously for several minutes when there isn't too much traffic and when I'm in the right mood. even if there was only a minor chance of damaging things doing this with a one-piece driveshaft, I'll steer clear of it.