One More Garrett GT35R Question and EX Housing poll.

[viperkillertt]

Another quick question, and i made a poll.
I was talking with my supra buddy tonight and he got me worried about something. What is involved with changing the exhaust housing on a GT35R? I assumed that it just required changing the housing. He was under the belief that you have to change the shaft, exhaust wheel and housing to do the job and also balance. Which is correct?

The question below has been answered:
Hi,
I just was showing the turbo to a friend and i noticed two holes again. Are these normal? Please let me know



The holes are on the side of both of the oil ports, in exactly the same spot.

 

[staticpage]

yes its normal iron casting is not perfect, it wont effect any thing

 

[viperkillertt]

yes its normal iron casting is not perfect, it wont effect any thing

Ok, i just didnt want it to leak I was thinking it was casting marks, but i wanted to make sure. Thanks!

 

[IJ.]

The 2 little notches?

If so they're just break through from the flange holes that were drilled and tapped and won't leak anything.

 

[viperkillertt]

Another quick question.
I was talking with my supra buddy tonight and he got me worried about something. What is involved with changing the exhaust housing on a GT35R? I assumed that it just required changing the housing. He was under the belief that you have to change the shaft, exhaust wheel and housing to do the job and also balance. Which is correct?

 

[IJ.]

Nope undo the 6 bolts and swap em over.

 

[becauseican]

I would definatly reccomend that you stay with a T3 flanged housing. I recently did a GT35R on a 1j, it had a .68 T4 housing and it is verydifficult to get the water and oil lines on, as the center section sits farther in the turbine housing, its actually so close that its nearly impossible to get the lines on without shaving the bolt heads down and assembling everything on the bench then dropping it in. If the manifold is a T4 flanged like most are, simply get a T3 flange and weld it on.

Now for housing size I would say the .82 T3 housing would be best for street use, if you really want to push it and try to make peak power get the 1.06 but have a bit more lag.

 

[viperkillertt]

Wow! Thanks for the poll results. Man, it seems everyone likes the .82. I think that will have to be my choice then. Now i just have to sell my 1.06

 

[viperkillertt]

I would definatly reccomend that you stay with a T3 flanged housing. I recently did a GT35R on a 1j, it had a .68 T4 housing and it is verydifficult to get the water and oil lines on, as the center section sits farther in the turbine housing, its actually so close that its nearly impossible to get the lines on without shaving the bolt heads down and assembling everything on the bench then dropping it in. If the manifold is a T4 flanged like most are, simply get a T3 flange and weld it on.

Now for housing size I would say the .82 T3 housing would be best for street use, if you really want to push it and try to make peak power get the 1.06 but have a bit more lag.

Now you have a .68, but you still recommend the .82 over it? Did you notice any surging?

 

[becauseican]

On my car I have a DBB T61, which is a GT35R wheel with P trim turbine wheel and a .58 T4 housing. I have no surging and full boost at 3700-3800 rpms, and it pulls hard till redline.

On a customers car I did a .68 T4 housing on a true Garrett GT35R and it spooled basicly as quick as my .58 housing but it was a major pain to install due to the T4 housing.....If you have it with the 1.06 just put it on and see how you like it.

 

[viperkillertt]

On my car I have a DBB T61, which is a GT35R wheel with P trim turbine wheel and a .58 T4 housing. I have no surging and full boost at 3700-3800 rpms, and it pulls hard till redline.

On a customers car I did a .68 T4 housing on a true Garrett GT35R and it spooled basicly as quick as my .58 housing but it was a major pain to install due to the T4 housing.....If you have it with the 1.06 just put it on and see how you like it.

It is currently 4 bolt and i cant find any 4 bolt down pipes for it. Only V-band. If i wanted to go with mild steel, then it wouldn't matter, but i think it would be nice to be shiny stainless. I don't want to have to redo the downpipe if i choose to change the housing.

 

[josh930]

I would just get rid of it and get the .82 v-band. Its not worth trying to make a 4 bolt downpipe for it.

 

[IJ.]

Hang on so you haven't even run it with the 1.06 yet?

Look at a couple of my TRAC vids, that's a 3540r with a 1.06 housing.

 

[viperkillertt]

Hang on so you haven't even run it with the 1.06 yet?

Look at a couple of my TRAC vids, that's a 3540r with a 1.06 housing.

I know, it can be great, but i only go on the track once every few weeks. This is a daily driver. Stop light to stop light. Rarely over 35mph. I really want as close to twins for lag. I literally rarely use the top end unless i am on the track. And i really dont want to make 2 downpipes. I would like to go vband so i can use driftmotions pretty ss one.

 

[Cya]

vband is awesome as far as bolting up goes. It seems as though you want low end so I would go with the t3 OR go with the tial housings for full vband. I know I will be going with the tial if I ever go garett.

http://www.tialsport.com/prod%20ss turbo.html

 

[viperkillertt]

vband is awesome as far as bolting up goes. It seems as though you want low end so I would go with the t3 OR go with the tial housings for full vband. I know I will be going with the tial if I ever go garett.

http://www.tialsport.com/prod ss turbo.html

good advice. Now i just have to find a dealer. I wonder how damn expensive these puppies are

 

[Cya]

It is currently 4 bolt and i cant find any 4 bolt down pipes for it. Only V-band. If i wanted to go with mild steel, then it wouldn't matter, but i think it would be nice to be shiny stainless. I don't want to have to redo the downpipe if i choose to change the housing.

Sorry to tell you but that ss look will only be short lived.

It will start to turn a bronze color and then brown.

 

[viperkillertt]

Sorry to tell you but that ss look will only be short lived.

It will start to turn a bronze color and then brown.

Weird, after 2 years, my current DP looks great! Nice and slightly shiny. I can make a DP out of mild very cheaply, but it would be nice to be shiny

 

[RacerXJ220]

I'm using a GT40R with the divided 1.06 housing and I LOOOOOOOOVE it.

440whp at 13.5PSI with slight creep at 7K to 14.xxPSI, it never stops pulling all the way to 7.5K on my 1.5JZ.

 

[viperkillertt]

I'm using a GT40R with the divided 1.06 housing and I LOOOOOOOOVE it.

440whp at 13.5PSI with slight creep at 7K to 14.xxPSI, it never stops pulling all the way to 7.5K on my 1.5JZ.

where do you see full boost?